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What RC parts have you 3D Printed????

all these wheels:


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Grills, engines, opening hoods, dash's, interiors, wheels, receiver boxes, whole comp chassis, axle tubes, axle centres.
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Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
 
Grills, engines, opening hoods, dash's, interiors, wheels, receiver boxes, whole comp chassis, axle tubes, axle centres.

That is awesome stuff! Do you have a build thread? If not you should start one for this rig! It's very cool.
 
Try this again, Vw Hubcaps. I've printed some and they turned out pretty good.
 
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Pretty Good. Can send you the STL if you'd like. I mounted the others with magnets. Not the best way, but the RC they go on won't see allot of speed.
 
Hey gang. So I've spent a few dozen hours printing a mobile bridge (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028287) and want to now bond the pieces that I need to together.

I've got Gorilla Super Glue at the ready as I saw that it works well with PLA (and I've tested it myself indoors) - but now I'm reading that it's not going to be good when used outdoors or in wet conditions.

I've got epoxy, but in my recent test (24h+ cure time), my prints failed to bond as strongly as the super glue did, so I really don't think it'll work well in this case.

How have you guys been bonding PLA? What will happen if I use the Gorilla Super Glue outdoors?
 
How have you guys been bonding PLA? What will happen if I use the Gorilla Super Glue outdoors?

I've only had experience with Super Glue and it works pretty good. Never tested it with water though.

You might look for Loctite's waterproof Super Glue ULTRA Liquid Control from Loctite Adhesives
seems like it should work for with wet and freezing conditions, although I noticed they say its waterproof in their video but on the product itself it says water resistant.
Anyway thats a fairly small bridge so even if a joint comes unbonded it should be pretty easy to just glue it again.

One other factor is that PLA will absorb water too but at any rate I dont think I'd worry too much.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I was hoping to have this done in PETG, but I have a hard enough time getting good layer adhesion on a small print with PETG let alone these 9h+ prints.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I was hoping to have this done in PETG, but I have a hard enough time getting good layer adhesion on a small print with PETG let alone these 9h+ prints.

Just did a 9H PETG print this morning, I hope to find its successfully completed when I get home, fingers crossed.

I did have issues getting the initial layers to stick with PETG though. I think part of my issue was a dirty or worn out nozzle. I also tweaked my initial layer height making it closer to the print bed, I did this because I thought it had shifted due to a mistake anyway that change seemed to help it. I'll also leave my houses heater turned up to 65-70 hoping that the heat will help it.

Now most of my PETG failures are from bridging over support, it does a better job bridging over thin air sadly (so long as it a small-ish bridge). It seems to snag the supports and as it snags more and more it melts and sticks to the nozzle, eventually it builds up a big glob that will start to snag even more.

Designing the print so it has a nice flat base to adhere to the print bed as well as keeping things simple for the sake of making it print friendly has helped me to be more successful with PETG.
 
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PETG sticking to the bed has never been an issue, but the globbing and stringing definitely has. I haven't nailed down the perfect settings yet, and PLA has been so easy to print with that I haven't had a break long enough to experiment with.
 
I think I have a addiction...

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Gonna have to add reinforcement to the back half of the frame on the lwb and maybe some notch blocks for the body to rest on the back of the frame as well just to be on the safe side... oh and... figure out how far I can clock the front axle to get the pinion angle better on the front axle.. or do some test fitting with some WB8 cvd driveshafts.
 
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