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Water Proofing Electronics

What surprises me (or i missed it completely) is the use of a waterproof ESC. I use (cheap ass) Hobbywing ESC's on al of my rigs. The G6 even had to spend some time in the salty water of the sea so i could take some pictures and small waves submerged the car every now and then.
The receiverbox i fillec with a layer of plastidip. Dipped the receiver in plastidip. Put the receiver is in a balloon. Did put it in the receiverbox. Poored on more plastidip. Covered it totally. Did put a piece of old foam (after plastidipping it) in the small gap where the wires enter the box. Been driving like this for almost 2 years now. I submerge my cars on a regular basis (because i like doing that) and never had an issue.
As for the battery....
I also believed the stories about lipo's and water. But decided to put it to the test on video. I drove my car into a creek and did let it stay there for half an hour (there was a big clock in the frame for the viewers to check that i did not cheat). After half an hour i drove it out of the creek like nothing had happened....


What motor are you using, stock?

On the subject of water, how do you care for the bearings?
 
I just read thru most of this, skimmed pages 1-18 and read from 18 on

I have my bec and rx coated with urethane conformal coating, they lasted thru puddle bashings so far, my roc 412 was coated with the same, he was fine for the first, then second,, a weekend after the second his sensor board stopped. Maybe i failed to put enough to cover? (only 2 coats).

I burned out my mmp that was filled with plasti dip after the first water adventure. My second mmp had 1 run on it with conformal. I think i killed that one by arcing it out when welding on my truck. Im now a proud owner of a HH trailmaster and love it.

Now onto the question

1. Iv heard that corrosion x needs reapplied here n there, is this true

2. Someone said that the conformal coating eventually breaks down and it needs redone but not as often

I want to not worry about if my truck is a day late on the reapplying schedule and kill electronics, good electronics get expensive when they burn out. Whats the best and most permanent do it and forget about it method? corosion x, conformal or epoxy? i wont be plasti dipping or electical taping again, so lets keep it to corrosion x, epoxy and conformal.

I dont plan on soldering my circuit boards so theres no reason to clean this stuff off. I want to just worry about regular mantenance, not waterproofing here n there
 
Anyone ever call Castle,Hobbywing or ask Rob Holmes what they put on there ESC's? I would love to know if someone here works for any of these companies could shed some light on this subject. I've been using liquid black tape with great success but would love to know what the manufactures use. They warrenty their products and obviously feel confident that what ever they are using will last at least a year.
 
I believe its clear conformal coating

Castle & Holmes 'pot' their waterproofed ESCs with epoxy resin, so do some generic ESCs I have had from the far east.

I have gotten kinda obsessed with waterproofing and this has culminated in making a waterproof Tekin brushless sensored set-up "thumbsup"...

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wS_WyUEdO50" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hope some find it useful - It is damn fiddly, but well worth the time IMHO.
 
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Hi people I'm new here and it probably been covered but I don't really wanna troll through pages. I'm going to waterproof every thing soon and my question is do I need to waterproof my castle 10amp BEC or will it be ok? If I do what's best for it
Cheers in advance ;)
 
Hi people I'm new here and it probably been covered but I don't really wanna troll through pages. I'm going to waterproof every thing soon and my question is do I need to waterproof my castle 10amp BEC or will it be ok? If I do what's best for it
Cheers in advance ;)

As stevetate12, you could dip it in Plastidip (or 'Liquid Electrical Tape'). But from my experience, if you want 110% long-term waterproof reliability go with epoxy resin - Its bullet proof (Plastidip & conformal coatings wear out). Have a look at my 2 videos on this which I linked a couple of posts ago in this thread (waterproof Tekin brushless sensored set-up).
 
Cheers guys wasn't sure about cutting the heat shrink off that's confirmed that, il check out epoxy resin out as I can't find any conformal coating in stock anywhere
 
As stevetate12, you could dip it in Plastidip (or 'Liquid Electrical Tape'). But from my experience, if you want 110% long-term waterproof reliability go with epoxy resin - Its bullet proof (Plastidip & conformal coatings wear out). Have a look at my 2 videos on this which I linked a couple of posts ago in this thread (waterproof Tekin brushless sensored set-up).

What make epoxy resin do you use?
Cool vid
 
im not 100% certain conformal coatings wear out.

im lazy in my old age. i plug one end of the heatshrink and blast the other open end with conformal coating, tilting the bec so the conformal goes everywhere. then seal up the side you sprayed the conformal into.

i use techspray quick drying aerosol acyrlic confomal coating.
 
Back on the Fluid Film. After reviewing the product, it looks like you could spray the whole chassis and undercarriage including output shafts and linkages.. Just spray the s#@! out of the bottom of the truck for the water resistant benefits. Does anyone see any adverse effects with bearings and movable parts with this stuff?

It's $10 at Lowes..
 
As stevetate12, you could dip it in Plastidip (or 'Liquid Electrical Tape'). But from my experience, if you want 110% long-term waterproof reliability go with epoxy resin - Its bullet proof (Plastidip & conformal coatings wear out). Have a look at my 2 videos on this which I linked a couple of posts ago in this thread (waterproof Tekin brushless sensored set-up).

Hi took your advice and went with the epoxy resin. Did my cc Bec tonight and rather than run through the two boards I have a sandwich of resin lol could you see this being a problem? Think il try getting it hotter when I do my motor and esc so it trickles through
 
Hi people I'm new here and it probably been covered but I don't really wanna troll through pages. I'm going to waterproof every thing soon and my question is do I need to waterproof my castle 10amp BEC or will it be ok? If I do what's best for it
Cheers in advance ;)
I just used some E-6000 on both ends of the blue shrink wrap. Worked it into the wires on both ends to make sure voids are filled, let it set, and your done!"thumbsup"
 
I tore down the receiver, esc and servo this weekend. All boards were treated heavily with 2 part epoxy, i used epoxy on the output wires and sealed them damn good. Then went through and used liquid electrical tape to seal the seams on the box. Not much could be done on the ESC how it is exposed but i epoxied the shit out of it the best i could, got under the heatsink with epoxy. I'm not treating the ESC above this as i need it to drain. Took apart the servo, epoxy the boards and output wires, greased the gears heavily with dielectric grease; just about filled it in completely. Sealed the servo and treated to liquid electrical tape. Man does that liquid electrical tape applied by brush look like shit, but it looks like it better (*&%$ing work; i went heavy. Electronics are functioning fine after epoxy.

So i'm feeling pretty confident on the electronics. Can you guys provide some tips on axle and transmission. I went to Lowes and picked up a can of the Fluid Film. I'm thinking of spraying EVERYTHING but the shocks.. Axle seams, output shafts, transmission seams, steering knuckles; just spraying it all. It sounds like it is effective, i hope the axle seams will fill in with it. Like to know your thoughts.

Thanks for the advice.

EDIT: SCX10 about 2 weeks old..
 
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Hi took your advice and went with the epoxy resin. Did my cc Bec tonight and rather than run through the two boards I have a sandwich of resin lol could you see this being a problem? Think il try getting it hotter when I do my motor and esc so it trickles through

IMHO as long as the entire outside of the BEC is sealed, having a little airspace inside should not be a problem. Let us know how you get on "thumbsup"
 
Getting ready to attempt to waterproof my Novak rooster. I've seen on some different threads that they can be difficult to waterproof. Any tips and suggestions anyone can offer would be great. Thanks.
 
I don't know much about water proof electronics but rain x Is amazing stuff I had problems with bait boat (for fishing, ) yes it leaked through the prop shaft and just cut out in tthe middle of the lake and in i waded. After a few rescues I figured it was time for a quick fix, no not replacement of defective propshaft seals some expensive supposed waterproofing spay from electronics shop. But no success, then someone suggested rain x .
With battery disconnected I soaked motor and esc making sure to spray it into all connection and into the shrink wrap if possible then leave overnight to dry. The next fishing trips was an experience when the boat made three trips and was still going, I pulled the top off to see the esc completely under water and the brushed 560 motor half under water but still working after pouring out about a litre of water the motor and esc looked like new. I have found that after 3 or 4 months need to reapply because that's how long it was before I had to go swimming again. that was the end of November frick a Dodles me plumbs dissappeared it was so cold.
Happy waterproofing ;-)
 
is this the stuff I would want to use on the circuit boards in a servo, esc etc...? On the servo I would also want to put grease around the spline., correct? Can I also use the conformal coating to close up the seems in the servo case? All the videos I look up show people dipping them in plasti dip which looks like total crap so I wanted to use something that will dry clear-ish. Also wondering if the conformal coating is flexible. I would like to put some coating around where is the wire comes out. Or maybe in flexible places should I use actual silicone?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPJOKK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3AFCSA6JU2B0W

I saw the video a couple posts up using the epoxy. What kind of epoxy is that? Is there a part number or anything?
 
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is this the stuff I would want to use on the circuit boards in a servo, esc etc...? On the servo I would also want to put grease around the spline., correct? Can I also use the conformal coating to close up the seems in the servo case? All the videos I look up show people dipping them in plasti dip which looks like total crap so I wanted to use something that will dry clear-ish. Also wondering if the conformal coating is flexible. I would like to put some coating around where is the wire comes out. Or maybe in flexible places should I use actual silicone?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPJOKK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3AFCSA6JU2B0W

I saw the video a couple posts up using the epoxy. What kind of epoxy is that? Is there a part number or anything?

I have spent way too long on waterproofing :oops: FWIW: I prefer epoxy resin to conformal coatings for circuit boards, as it is tougher; I recommend Bob Smith industries 30 minute cure (30 Minute Epoxy | Slow-Cure).

Yes you want to marine grease the servo gears and output spline (and add an o-ring if you can)... Or just buy a waterproof servo and save the hassle of sealing it up.

Plastidip or silicone sealant is good for sealing where wires come out, connectors join etc.

g/l with your waterproofing. Checkout the videos on my YT channel as they may help you: https://www.youtube.com/user/4WheelRCUK
 
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