use what you feel best, but i have used the techspray on alot of components and never had a problem.
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Water Proofing Electronics
- Thread starter BrockGrimes
- Start date
use what you feel best, but i have used the techspray on alot of components and never had a problem.
Never tried hot glue. I like the idea and it would be easy to remove. I dont know if themp might be too much for some of the electronic's though. Maybe a low temp hot glue?
I've had temps on my rigs so hot they de-solder... So I would assume the glue isn't hot enough to do anything. I have had to remove the glue once and it was easy.
hpiguy
Rock Crawler
I would actually worry about the hot glue melting once your electronics get some heat in them.
ya thought that too but it seems that the only way the glue will melt is if it passes into a dangerous temp ( beyond able to touch with your hands)
idaho
Quarry Creeper
So what about my bullet connections? Should I seal those with silicone? And I should pull the fan off my ESC and seal its connection too right?
my water proof esc says the fan isnt waterproof and to remove it when there is water. so idk.... and the bullet connections i typically shrink wrap the whole connection, then i add hot glue to the ends just to make sure they are water tight
Jakethesnake-rs10
Pebble Pounder
Corrosion X works well. Got mine at ace.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2
JOETRUCKER80
Rock Stacker
I have used Rustoleum spray rubber, and plasti dip
Plasti dip and liquid tape work very well. I also packed the servo gears with die electric grease. As far as the bullet connetors I think they are fine. Your not pushing enough through them to get them to arc. I use deans on they batts and I don't do anything to them either.
Kinda boring long video but the beginning has the water stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dsw5g6TEoQU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Kinda boring long video but the beginning has the water stuff...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dsw5g6TEoQU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Ohioskills
Rock Crawler
platic dip is great just make sure u let it dry for a day or go with holmes/traxxas
jhtoy
Quarry Creeper
Hey just to be sure,is it ok to cover the circuit board on a servo with clear dielectric grease?
arevir
Quarry Creeper
wow just when I thought about using liquid tape, now I know it wont stop moisture from building up under it.
So now I will buy some MG Chemicals Silicone Conformal Coating : 422
Amazon.com: MG Chemicals Silicone Conformal Coating : 422: Everything Else
I saw someone dunk his motor in Corrosion X I have never use that does that dry or it stay in liquid form around the components.
If yes is that a good thing to dunk the whole motor with sensor cable attached in corrosion X.
would this be just like liquid tape and wont provide moisture protection Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant
Permatex 80050 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
So now I will buy some MG Chemicals Silicone Conformal Coating : 422
Amazon.com: MG Chemicals Silicone Conformal Coating : 422: Everything Else
I saw someone dunk his motor in Corrosion X I have never use that does that dry or it stay in liquid form around the components.
If yes is that a good thing to dunk the whole motor with sensor cable attached in corrosion X.
would this be just like liquid tape and wont provide moisture protection Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant
Permatex 80050 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant, 3 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
That_One_Guy
Newbie
Of course was up24 they sell them everywhere. Castle, dynamite, many more
DogSpoon
Newbie
Maybe I can help a little
General Waterproofing
You don't have to waterproof everything, just the sensitive electronics: ESC, servo, receiver, BEC. The power connectors, and motor don't absolutely need it.
Here's why
The conductivity of water is dependent upon the ions dissolved in it. In order of increasing conductivity, distilled water < tap water < sea water. Copper wire is about 10 million times more conductive than sea water. Water is fairly high resistance compared to a wire.
What determines damage is how sensitive your electronics are to current. It isn't true in every case, but generally, the Reciever, and ESC can handle maybe a few tens to hundreds of unwanted milliamps before frying. Depending on construction, the BEC and Servo may be somewhat more tolerant. The power connections, and motor are relatively robust. What determines current is voltage over resistance: I = V/R. Higher resistance, like that seen in water, means you need higher voltage to cause damage.
On the power connectors, getting sea water on them (which you should avoid for other reasons anyway) might cause a few microamps or milliamps to leak across, but it won't break anything. Fresh water is even less of a problem. However, chronic wetness of the connectors will eventually corrode them. It's up to you to choose to prevent now or repair later. See below on preventing corrosion.
On the motor, DC motors will run fine under water. I've done it with no waterproofing and no problems. I haven't run a sensored brushless motor submerged, but the only real difference is the hall effect sensors. Keep in mind that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. In a well-maintained motor, there will be no source of current that has no easier path to ground than through the sensor cable. Once again, your primary concern will be corrosion and dirt. You don't want either of those inside your motor. So prevent or repair.
To Prevent corrosion
Choose something that won't trap moisture. Don't use tape, hot glue, shrink wrap, etc. They will do a better job of keeping moisture in than keeping it out.
Use something that won't interfere with conductivity. For example, CorrosionX is non-conductive and bonds to metal surfaces, forming an oily film. I wouldn't use it on any connectors, but it would be fine on the motor itself for preventing corrosion, and it makes a fantastic waterproofer for the ESC, Servo board, and BEC.
I don't use anything on my motor or power connectors. I've tried dielectric grease, but it's just messy and I decided I'd rather solder new connectors every few years.
On Hot Glue
Hot glue bonds only weakly to smooth surfaces. This is what makes it desirable, because it can be easily removed for warranty replacements. But that also makes it unreliable. Eventually, that mating surface will begin to separate and may let water in.
Also, water tends to get into the smallest of openings. Even if you think you've sealed it up, any point where wires pass through is a potential weak point. Although I use silicone grease to seal up the seams on my servo, receiver box, and ESC, I generously coat the boards themselves with something water-repellent just for that one drop that might get past my outer defense system. I would not recommend coating boards with hot glue. It would trap head, and there are too many nooks and crannies that would make it a PITA to remove, completely negating its primary benefit.
If you choose hot glue, use it to seal up boxes, not coat circuit boards. Keep and eye on it, and reapply when it starts to separate. I'd recommend using it in tandem with another type of non-heat-trapping sealant to coat the boards.
That's all I have for now. Cue the angry hoards.
General Waterproofing
You don't have to waterproof everything, just the sensitive electronics: ESC, servo, receiver, BEC. The power connectors, and motor don't absolutely need it.
Here's why
The conductivity of water is dependent upon the ions dissolved in it. In order of increasing conductivity, distilled water < tap water < sea water. Copper wire is about 10 million times more conductive than sea water. Water is fairly high resistance compared to a wire.
What determines damage is how sensitive your electronics are to current. It isn't true in every case, but generally, the Reciever, and ESC can handle maybe a few tens to hundreds of unwanted milliamps before frying. Depending on construction, the BEC and Servo may be somewhat more tolerant. The power connections, and motor are relatively robust. What determines current is voltage over resistance: I = V/R. Higher resistance, like that seen in water, means you need higher voltage to cause damage.
On the power connectors, getting sea water on them (which you should avoid for other reasons anyway) might cause a few microamps or milliamps to leak across, but it won't break anything. Fresh water is even less of a problem. However, chronic wetness of the connectors will eventually corrode them. It's up to you to choose to prevent now or repair later. See below on preventing corrosion.
On the motor, DC motors will run fine under water. I've done it with no waterproofing and no problems. I haven't run a sensored brushless motor submerged, but the only real difference is the hall effect sensors. Keep in mind that electricity always takes the path of least resistance. In a well-maintained motor, there will be no source of current that has no easier path to ground than through the sensor cable. Once again, your primary concern will be corrosion and dirt. You don't want either of those inside your motor. So prevent or repair.
To Prevent corrosion
Choose something that won't trap moisture. Don't use tape, hot glue, shrink wrap, etc. They will do a better job of keeping moisture in than keeping it out.
Use something that won't interfere with conductivity. For example, CorrosionX is non-conductive and bonds to metal surfaces, forming an oily film. I wouldn't use it on any connectors, but it would be fine on the motor itself for preventing corrosion, and it makes a fantastic waterproofer for the ESC, Servo board, and BEC.
I don't use anything on my motor or power connectors. I've tried dielectric grease, but it's just messy and I decided I'd rather solder new connectors every few years.
On Hot Glue
Hot glue bonds only weakly to smooth surfaces. This is what makes it desirable, because it can be easily removed for warranty replacements. But that also makes it unreliable. Eventually, that mating surface will begin to separate and may let water in.
Also, water tends to get into the smallest of openings. Even if you think you've sealed it up, any point where wires pass through is a potential weak point. Although I use silicone grease to seal up the seams on my servo, receiver box, and ESC, I generously coat the boards themselves with something water-repellent just for that one drop that might get past my outer defense system. I would not recommend coating boards with hot glue. It would trap head, and there are too many nooks and crannies that would make it a PITA to remove, completely negating its primary benefit.
If you choose hot glue, use it to seal up boxes, not coat circuit boards. Keep and eye on it, and reapply when it starts to separate. I'd recommend using it in tandem with another type of non-heat-trapping sealant to coat the boards.
That's all I have for now. Cue the angry hoards.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Has anyone determined what will remove Corrosion X? The reason I ask is I'm about to submerge my Tekin FXR in CX and afterward I'd like to remove the CX from the solder posts so I can get a good solder joint. It's not flammable so maybe it'll just "burn away" when the heat is applied by the iron? Or is it known that a particular solvent (motor spray?) can remove it? That'd be ideal.
I've looked online, but have come up empty. I'm willing to do some experimenting of my own to see what removes it, but thought I'd ask here first.
Thanks,
Tommy
I've looked online, but have come up empty. I'm willing to do some experimenting of my own to see what removes it, but thought I'd ask here first.
Thanks,
Tommy
TeamBosing
Pebble Pounder
I'm going to waterproof my new brushless set up with this stuff. Hopefully it will hold up fine.
