Vanquish H10 axle fixes (3D printable)

[HumboldtEF]

I came up with a few fixes for the H10 axles. For those who haven't put together an axle yet the gear mesh is too tight and the steering linkage binds on the housing itself.

Steering ram/guide lift (.5mm)

You can download the STL for free here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6866983

This lifts the fake steering ram/guide .5mm which prevents almost all binding. The steering link will still occasionally drag against the upper link mounts but when it does contact it it doesn't really bind up at all. In stock form the linkage can rotate to the point it binds on the housing itself.

After printing you may want to run a 13/64" (5.2mm) drill bit through it to ensure the linkage slides smoothly. Install everything but the small clamps that cap this ram. ensure it still slides smoothly, then install the clamps keeping in mind you cant fully seat the screws for it since the ram/guide has moved a bit. After you have the clamps in place re-check that the linkage still moves smoothly, if it doesn't loosen the screws for the clamps a tiny bit until it frees up.

I also shortened the overall length so that it isn't what limits steering angle, only the stops do now.

I used PETG with enough perimeters that it prints solid. I oriented it on the build plate so the tube portion is vertical and used organic supports but other supports are likely fine too.


.35mm shims:
You can download the STL for free here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6866991

These (.35mm) shims go between the carrier bearing holders and the 3rd member in order to move the ring gear farther away from the pinion. In stock form the gears have too tight of a mesh. This is meant for the plastic carrier bearing holders, I have not tested the aluminum version. These shims fixed the gear mesh for me and for my brother.

Printed with PETG and a layer height set to .05mm

Print a few extras as this is so small the quality isn't always the greatest and these are really easy to lose.

Alternatively you could purchase normal (metal) shims. Although the shims I found were too big to fit but you can force them to fit by just assembling the 3rd member with them in place. They might be extremely hard to remove later though.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Interesting about the issue with the axle. First I'm seeing of it, but I haven't followed the H10 Optic too closely since I don't have one (yet).

Thanks for the info, the fix and the files!

 

[HumboldtEF]

Yeah I hadn't heard much about these issues except from my brother. Maybe because most of the H10 were RTRs up to this point? Although I noticed it right away with my RTR, just pushing it by hand was rough, I could feel the binding.

I tore down the axles to put in machined gears. I noticed if I loosened the screws securing the 3rd member carrier bearing holders that the mesh felt much better. While I had it apart I also fiddled around with the steering linkage and quickly noticed how it could rotate to the point it would bind on the housing itself.

I dont know if the gear mesh will be an issue on the kits since they throw in aluminum carrier bearing holders (EDIT no they dont) but mix in the plastic 3rd member. I'm assuming the kits wont have that particular issue.

I'm always happy to share my simple designs

 

[ferp420]

sounds like something i would exspect from redcat not vanquish but ya know

HAHAHA what ever needs ar60s anyway lol

 

[HumboldtEF]

I think the Optic would look good on AR60s or some SSDlux axles

 

[JatoTheRipper]

sounds like something i would exspect from redcat not vanquish but ya know

HAHAHA what ever needs ar60s anyway lol

Well come on now...nobody is perfect.

I wonder how much wider the AR60 axles are compared to the H10 axles.

 

[Col_Sanders]

I had not seen anything about these problems either.

Well come on now...nobody is perfect.

I wonder how much wider the AR60 axles are compared to the H10 axles.

They show the hex to hex width of the front H10 as 8.13". I think AR60 was ~9.5"?

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I had not seen anything about these problems either.



They show the hex to hex width of the front H10 as 8.13". I think AR60 was ~9.5"?

Thanks.

I was never a big fan of AR60's. They need a lot of upgrades to be durable. And definitely too wide, especially on this rig.

 

[Col_Sanders]

Thanks.

I was never a big fan of AR60's. They need a lot of upgrades to be durable. And definitely too wide, especially on this rig.

I owned several sets of them over the years and was not all that fond of them either. Brandon has shown an H10 on the livestream a few times that is running F10 straight axles and 4.19" tires and it actually looks pretty good. He shortened the wheelbase to 12.5.

 

[ferp420]

Well come on now...nobody is perfect.

I wonder how much wider the AR60 axles are compared to the H10 axles.

lol red cat gets some bump steer and there junk vanquish the flipping steering binds the one feature that really makes the axle design unique and its dosent work
and gear mesh issues on top of that

they dont get a pass on that one

personally i wouldent run those axles anyway there not potmetal and i cant afford them anyway lol

 

[ferp420]

Thanks.

I was never a big fan of AR60's. They need a lot of upgrades to be durable. And definitely too wide, especially on this rig.

my biggest problem ive had with ar60 was the flex in the housing itself and
the inner pinion bearing is too small but thats a quick and easy fix
the aftermarket or metal housings fix the flex and a drill fixed the bearing issue after that there pretty reliable

 

[JatoTheRipper]

lol red cat gets some bump steer and there junk vanquish the flipping steering binds the one feature that really makes the axle design unique and its dosent work
and gear mesh issues on top of that

they dont get a pass on that one

personally i wouldent run those axles anyway there not potmetal and i cant afford them anyway lol

I haven't seen either Vanquish issue be something that is widespread so maybe it's not a problem with every single unit. Or maybe it is. Time will tell. You know I'll be honest when I get my kit.

Let's be honest here. Redcat didn't get the junk reputation from bump steer... They have had many issues over the years. They have come a long way and their new releases are tempting, but history is not easily forgotten.

my biggest problem ive had with ar60 was the flex in the housing itself and
the inner pinion bearing is too small but thats a quick and easy fix
the aftermarket or metal housings fix the flex and a drill fixed the bearing issue after that there pretty reliable

Yes, the AR60's either need brass tube inserts or new axle housings.

 

[ferp420]

I haven't seen either Vanquish issue be something that is widespread so maybe it's not a problem with every single unit. Or maybe it is. Time will tell. You know I'll be honest when I get my kit.

Let's be honest here. Redcat didn't get the junk reputation from bump steer... They have had many issues over the years. They have come a long way and their new releases are tempting, but history is not easily forgotten.


Yes, the AR60's either need brass tube inserts or new axle housings.

redcat earned there reputation for sure

the plastic axial used for there axles got soft when it got hot out so when it was 100+ out the gears started slipping and the housing were toast

over powering a heavy rig didet help any ether lol

 

[Col_Sanders]

lol red cat gets some bump steer and there junk vanquish the flipping steering binds the one feature that really makes the axle design unique and its dosent work
and gear mesh issues on top of that

they dont get a pass on that one

personally i wouldent run those axles anyway there not potmetal and i cant afford them anyway lol

I searched the facebook group and didnt see anyone else mention the steering ram binding. Pinion gears often could use shimming from most RC manufacturers. Maybe that has played a part in the multiple ring gear failures though, not just people slapping big brushless motors in there and sending it.

As far as common problems, I've seen a few complaints about the rod ends. Specifically the drag link popping off the servo arm. Their non pro rod ends are prone to stretching so that is not a surprise. Also the sintered ring gears obviously have been a problem for people.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

redcat earned there reputation for sure

the plastic axial used for there axles got soft when it got hot out so when it was 100+ out the gears started slipping and the housing were toast

over powering a heavy rig didet help any ether lol

Axial changed their plastic formula. Do you remember when it used to be gritty and filled with a lot of glass fibers?

Putting the AR60's on the SMT10 monster truck and things like that didn't help me like them any more...

 

[soze]

I should be getting my kit today. Will see if this is an issue when I build mine. I have way too many projects on my plate and not enough time though.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I searched the facebook group and didnt see anyone else mention the steering ram binding. Pinion gears often could use shimming from most RC manufacturers. Maybe that has played a part in the multiple ring gear failures though, not just people slapping big brushless motors in there and sending it.

I think once you hook up a servo to the steering linkage its probably hard to feel it binding up since a servo itself has a ton of resistance. The binding I noticed wasn't just a tiny bit, theres a fair amount of resistance when it drags on the housing.

I'd suggest checking for the binding before installing the servo. Rotate the middle steering link while steering back and forth and you should be able to feel it. I fiddled around with mine for a few days while I waited for a servo. Once I noticed the binding I had to stop the build (RTR rebuild) until I had a fix.

As for the typical shimming techniques for diffs this is a bit different as the ring gear has no side to side play so there no real option to push it to the side for a looser mesh. Normally you can simply put shims between the bearings and ring gear but not in this case. It seemed like the only option to move the ring gear away was to raise the carrier bearings by putting shims under the carrier bearing holders.

I tested the sintered ring gears and the machined gears, both had a tight spot where they bound up a bit. Again mine was so pronounced I could feel it while pushing the truck by hand. I'd liken this kind of binding to an AR44 with no driveshaft installed (the mesh always feels like crap until you install them).

I'm also very surprised theres been no mention of this from others to me these issues were pretty glaring.

I'm curious to see how the kit fairs on the gear mesh since it has the aluminum carrier bearing holders,(EDIT they're plastic) it might be fine.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I think once you hook up a servo to the steering linkage its probably hard to feel it binding up since a servo itself has a ton of resistance. The binding I noticed wasn't just a tiny bit, theres a fair amount of resistance when it drags on the housing.

I'd suggest checking for the binding before installing the servo. Rotate the middle steering link while steering back and forth and you should be able to feel it. I fiddled around with mine for a few days while I waited for a servo. Once I noticed the binding I had to stop the build (RTR rebuild) until I had a fix.

As for the typical shimming techniques for diffs this is a bit different as the ring gear has no side to side play so there no real option to push it to the side for a looser mesh. Normally you can simply put shims between the bearings and ring gear but not in this case. It seemed like the only option to move the ring gear away was to raise the carrier bearings by putting shims under the carrier bearing holders.

I tested the sintered ring gears and the machined gears, both had a tight spot where they bound up a bit. Again mine was so pronounced I could feel it while pushing the truck by hand. I'd liken this kind of binding to an AR44 with no driveshaft installed (the mesh always feels like crap until you install them).

I'm also very surprised theres been no mention of this from others to me these issues were pretty glaring.

I'm curious to see how the kit fairs on the gear mesh since it has the aluminum carrier bearing holders, it might be fine.

If this is a widespread issue with the design, then they will need to fix it before releasing the aluminum axles. Plastic will give some. Those aluminum axle housings will not tolerate these things.

 

[ferp420]

If this is a widespread issue with the design, then they will need to fix it before releasing the aluminum axles. Plastic will give some. Those aluminum axle housings will not tolerate these things.

since the ram part is plastic they could just keep the plastic part and make the rest of the axle from aluminum

i would think they would need some kinda bearing or something if it was aluminum on aluminum

 

[themountain]

For a mostly optical part they create quite a nuisance...great fix BTW