Tribute to my Dad's 79 F100 featuring Banzai

[Ascender'nMN84]

Re: Tribute to my Dad's 79 F100 *UPDATE 27 AUG*

I wasn't concerned one bit."thumbsup"
Besides I know where you live.:mrgreen::lmao:
Ernie

Correction: You know where I work. [emoji38]

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[CODYBOY]

Re: Tribute to my Dad's 79 F100 *UPDATE 27 AUG*

Correction: You know where I work. [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

You got me!:lmao::lmao:
Ernie

 

[Shinchu]

okay I have been doing some window shopping, adding stuff to my amazon wishlist and throwing stuff in my cart at RPP just to get an idea of what else this thing needs (not much to run but im a ways out from finished).

question for CODYBOY or anyone else that might have ideas... battery location??? I was considering a couple of 2000mah 2c, one on each slider for balance and total of 4000mah run time. trying to avoid rear mounting the battery, if possible.
(Ernie I read 90% of the bulldog thread and realize you had your pack in the back but im not sure that will work with a drop bed F series)

I also build custom lightsaber props with electronics the make them light up and sound real. in the saber community we call fitting a crazy amount of electronics in a small metallic cylinder the art of "kram-fu".
with this chassis, fwd motor, 2 speed trans, CMS, (possibly a hidden servo winch?) and what will eventually be a full interior and drop bed... its taking an odd amount of kram-fu!

thanks in advance for any advice. you all have been awesome.

Ascenders, ASSEMBLE!

 

[Ascender'nMN84]

Re: Tribute to my Dad's 79 F100 *UPDATE 27 AUG*

I love that Ascenders, ASSEMBLE line!

I think you might be on the right track doing it saddle style with a battery on each slider. With the front motor mount, it eliminates the full-size aftermarket battery tray option. I mounted a small 3s battery on the passenger side floorboard of my interior for my lights. Not really a scale item but it offsets the weight of Stone Cold driving.

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[CODYBOY]

okay I have been doing some window shopping, adding stuff to my amazon wishlist and throwing stuff in my cart at RPP just to get an idea of what else this thing needs (not much to run but im a ways out from finished).

question for CODYBOY or anyone else that might have ideas... battery location??? I was considering a couple of 2000mah 2c, one on each slider for balance and total of 4000mah run time. trying to avoid rear mounting the battery, if possible.
(Ernie I read 90% of the bulldog thread and realize you had your pack in the back but im not sure that will work with a drop bed F series)

I also build custom lightsaber props with electronics the make them light up and sound real. in the saber community we call fitting a crazy amount of electronics in a small metallic cylinder the art of "kram-fu".
with this chassis, fwd motor, 2 speed trans, CMS, (possibly a hidden servo winch?) and what will eventually be a full interior and drop bed... its taking an odd amount of kram-fu!

thanks in advance for any advice. you all have been awesome.

Ascenders, ASSEMBLE!

Hey Chris, saddle packs for sure, but I really like staying in the 2200 3C, that speed control I sent will like them a lot better.
Turnigy Nano Tech from HobbyKing.com are a good battery at a great price.
Less weight, with the saddle mounts easy to change on the trail. I can send you another ascender battery mount if you like. I will see what I can do about getting you a servo winch!"thumbsup"
Check with me before you order parts on your wish lists, I may have it in my parts bin. The servo I was going to use for a shift servo is a traxxas 2080, should slip right into the spot on the tranny. "thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[Shinchu]

thanks Ernie.
I was getting smart on the 2 speed thing, watched some youtube vids and your old build thread was a huge help seeing what goes where.
so you are saying 2200mah total or 2200x2 for a total of 4400mah? nice. im just worried something that big wont fit under the interior floorboard. that's why I was going conservative with 2000mah 2s. 3 cell might be a bit tall? I have a 4300 3 cell soft pack for my yeti, I could just toss it on one side to see what it looks like.

as for the servo winch, that's way down the road. I do have a slick idea for how it will feed out the stock F100 bumper, if I ever find or make one. fairlead behind the license plate ;-) either spring-hinged or just hold it on with magnets. servo might need to be a micro to fit next to the steering servo.
i want it hidden since my pop didn't have a winch on the 1:1 version (but i can think of at least twice i wish it had one!) but i do eventually want the ability to get itself out of a jam! considering this thing is looking like it will be like 20 lbs when im done lol

trying to figure out plans for a 1:1 style under-bed spare tire also. even if it means cutting a wheel and tire in half like a bagel :shock:

i will let you know when i need parts, but first i need to work on my current debts... ;-)

 

[CODYBOY]

thanks Ernie.
I was getting smart on the 2 speed thing, watched some youtube vids and your old build thread was a huge help seeing what goes where.
so you are saying 2200mah total or 2200x2 for a total of 4400mah? nice. im just worried something that big wont fit under the interior floorboard. that's why I was going conservative with 2000mah 2s. 3 cell might be a bit tall? I have a 4300 3 cell soft pack for my yeti, I could just toss it on one side to see what it looks like.

as for the servo winch, that's way down the road. I do have a slick idea for how it will feed out the stock F100 bumper, if I ever find or make one. fairlead behind the license plate ;-) either spring-hinged or just hold it on with magnets. servo might need to be a micro to fit next to the steering servo.
i want it hidden since my pop didn't have a winch on the 1:1 version (but i can think of at least twice i wish it had one!) but i do eventually want the ability to get itself out of a jam! considering this thing is looking like it will be like 20 lbs when im done lol

trying to figure out plans for a 1:1 style under-bed spare tire also. even if it means cutting a wheel and tire in half like a bagel :shock:

i will let you know when i need parts, but first i need to work on my current debts... ;-)

I was thinking 2200s, singles. One thing to think about is mounting a battery on one side and electronics on the other for balance. The threes I have are about 1 1/8" thick if that would give you a gage to go by. "thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[Shinchu]

I think i can get away with the double pack setup and esc on the platform, receiver on the.... uhhhhhhhh lol depends how small it is. Like i said earlier... kram-fu!

 

[Shinchu]

alright gang, need some advice/opinions.
while im waiting to scour the universe for exact parts and figure out paint (most likely shipping the ford to Ernie)... I need something to throw on the chassis for the meantime... and whenever i don't want to bang up this project.

what do?

I don't want to mess with wheelbase, so it would have to be as close to 11 inches as possible.
just a little bit of searching today I have seen 2 options. there might be more so please chime in if you think of anything.

1. Vaterra Bronco.
I mean, that's what this chassis is already setup as, seems like a no brainer and I had a cool idea to maybe build it with a "LOGAN" theme, like the one he drove in the movie.

2. Tamiya Clodbuster!
this one has me more excited. I don't have a theme or any ideas for where to go with it, but I think it would be fun! best of all, its the exact same dimensions as the jconcepts ford I have.
and there are TONS of things available for this hardbody! one question I have though, if anybody knows... would rc3wd blazer stuff fit?

another thing I could do is just get another 79 ford and go with maybe just a "primer" paint job? like a "WIP" version?

another thing I just realized when browsing GCM's site... they did a 76 ford and that is 99% the same as a 79, only difference is the grill. I wonder if I could get one of those bodies and modify the grill to look like a 79 so I would possibly have the only 79 ford hardbody... in the universe?! lol just another wacky idea...

so the choices are:
1. Vaterra Early Bronco
2. Clodbuster
3. "primer" ford
4. other?

other than that... no real updates. I still need to see if I can find any pics of Pop's 1:1 truck, for reference and inspiration. also I think I will name this truck ZIGGY. it was my dad's nickname in the army. unfortunately i never asked him why.

 

[CODYBOY]

Hey Chris, if your talking about the rig I sent you, check the wheel base, I think it was close to 12.2". It has been a while since I built that, and with my older gentlemen menory:roll: I can't remember for sure? I know it wasn't set up for ascender bronco! ;-) Measure from axle to axle and see.
Ernie

 

[clm]

You could get a cab only and run without a bed... fits on many wheelbases

 

[Shinchu]

Ernie I stuck the body on the top of that chassis. its nearly spot-on. the body is a Jconcepts 79 F250 and its 11" wheelbase.
I should measure the WB on the chassis to be sure, but its maybe at 11.2" at most. good thing... i'd hate to replace those links!

as for a cab only truck... the name for that escapes me at the moment... like the vaterra C10. it solves the wheelbase issue but I just don't like the look and I think its too common right now. its cool, just not for me. great suggestion though! maybe combined with proline's utilty bed? that would be kinda neat! (and it would hide the shock towers hahaha)

*** i'll be damned!!!

 

[CODYBOY]

That is good, I remember shortening it a little but I couldn't remember how much. Yah, I spent a little while with the Lunsford titanium links to get them bent right for good clearance. I'm laying out a 66 chevy truck body to paint for my ascender K 10. Starting to get things ready for the RPP Jamboree in October."thumbsup"
Ernie

 

[bigchimp]

Just chiming in to throw cold water on the REC wheel option. Chris stopped making wheels a while back and I think I bought his last set a few years ago. He's got a new venture he's working on, but won't be doing wheels again. I do have a set of 4 untouched 1.55 10 hole 5 lug wheels - is that the wheel you're looking for?

 

[Shinchu]

:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:

YES!
that's what im looking for! Chris actually answered here in my wheels thread "looking for 1.55 version of this" after I emailed him to ask about them.
he told me about his new project and there is current info he posted yesterday on the "other" scaler forum ;-) he just sent off a die-cast for master casting "thumbsup" not sure what it is, but it should be cool.

anyway back to those wheels... how many of my limbs do I need to sell? :ror:
I was about to pull the trigger on some CROSS wheels I found on ebay but they would need to be chromed. the REC wheels are SPOT ON exactly what my dad had on his 1:1. here is a pic from the wheels thread to give you an idea of how bad I need those REC's...
not a pic of his wheels but its the exact combo he had, size and all.

so yeah... you got PM!
*DOH!
bigchimp, you don't have PM! clear out your inbox sir!

oh also while speaking of wheels, Ernie I threw those gearhead 1.55's on my sons barrage... looks AWESOME! i'll post a little pic after I get the shell plasti-dipped green. my son was amazed how good it looks with more aggressive tread. He cant wait to get out on the trails to try them out!

 

[Shinchu]

Did some tinkering and test fitting yesterday. Ran into a couple issues. Not big ones but i need some tips from the masters here.

Trying to mount the cms for correct geometry without bump steer. I see where it was previously mounted but horn position has me baffled.
I know pics would help, will try to snap some in a bit.

Next is the mip front driveshaft bangs into the 2 speed selector shaft pretty good on compression. Its enough that im scared it will ruin the rc3wd t case or the shafts or the transmission... its like i need smaller diameter shaft? I could flip it around but that would look silly. Problem is, the selector shaft sticks out right where the shaft telescopes. Errr... not sure what the solution is maybe build mip shafts from certain lengths to move the telescope area higher?

I know pics will help heaps to show what i mean. Will post them later. Thanks all!
*****
Ok here is what i see. Blue nut at the end of the gear shift shaft hits front driveshaft. You can see where its rubbing the black paint off.

Bonus pic?
Meanwhile, here is banzai with my sons freshly plasti dipped barrage on 1.55 gearhead wheels with pitbull growlers. That cat loves sitting with me while i tinker!

 

[Shinchu]

okay it says 1/8 scale truck but the body looks pretty close to 1/10 to me...
https://www.bigsquidrc.com/kyosho-mad-crusher-gp-ve-monster-trucks/

body is disappointing (compared to the recent muscle cars they are doing) BUT!
look at those mirrors and bumpers!
hopefully I can just get those parts without buying a whole bodyset (like Tamiya does)
wipers would be nice too.

if you look at the body pins it really looks like it could be a 1/10 body on a 1/8 basher. that's pretty typical, as far as I can tell.

also... that teaser kyosho just released of this 2RSA "scale off-road project"? hmmmm... interesting...

 

[CODYBOY]

Did some tinkering and test fitting yesterday. Ran into a couple issues. Not big ones but i need some tips from the masters here.

Trying to mount the cms for correct geometry without bump steer. I see where it was previously mounted but horn position has me baffled.
I know pics would help, will try to snap some in a bit.
Next is the mip front driveshaft bangs into the 2 speed selector shaft pretty good on compression. Its enough that im scared it will ruin the rc3wd t case or the shafts or the transmission... its like i need smaller diameter shaft? I could flip it around but that would look silly. Problem is, the selector shaft sticks out right where the shaft telescopes. Errr... not sure what the solution is maybe build mip shafts from certain lengths to move the telescope area higher?

I know pics will help heaps to show what i mean. Will post them later. Thanks all!
*****
Ok here is what i see. Blue nut at the end of the gear shift shaft hits front driveshaft. You can see where its rubbing the black paint off.

Bonus pic?
Meanwhile, here is banzai with my sons freshly plasti dipped barrage on 1.55 gearhead wheels with pitbull growlers. That cat loves sitting with me while i tinker!

Hey Chris, can you change angle of your axle by clocking it forward a little? Looks like you could do it by replacing the revo link ends with Jatos to get what you need.
JUNFAC Hardened Carbon Steel Universal Shafts (2) Tamiya Tundra High-Lift These have a smaller OD than the MIP shafts.

Also I sent you a message in letter today (snail mail, seems like something out of the dark ages:lmao anyway a pic of a 79 F100 4x4 with the colors I think you are asking for. Also I sent a piece of clear with 3 different mixes of the dark metalic brown I think you are looking for. The cream should be pretty easy to mix. I know you said quit sending you things, but now I need info from you.:lmao:
Ernie

 

[Shinchu]

Ernie, thanks for the "mini care package". I really need to start turning wrenches on this thing and get it moving! but like a Lannister (the only thing I have in common with that house), I always repay my debts.

as for the color swatches and pic of the 1:1... thank you! haven't received yet but that's a great idea to help decide color. I almost took the easy way when I painted my sons barrage it dawned on me... why don't I just spray the inside with camo brown and camo tan???
but like I said that's the easy way. and that's not always the right way. I would probably have to back it with bedliner and, well who knows how that would turn out. maybe for the trail beater, and whenever I get around to sending another your way for "shelf queen" and concourse duty.
in the movie prop world (ie: lightsabers) this is a technique known as "Hero" used in close ups and "Stunt" used for... you guessed it: stunt work.

oh and I still have a disc to go through that might have a pic of his actual 1:1. i will post findings here.

 

[CODYBOY]

Ernie, thanks for the "mini care package". I really need to start turning wrenches on this thing and get it moving! but like a Lannister (the only thing I have in common with that house), I always repay my debts.

as for the color swatches and pic of the 1:1... thank you! haven't received yet but that's a great idea to help decide color. I almost took the easy way when I painted my sons barrage it dawned on me... why don't I just spray the inside with camo brown and camo tan???
but like I said that's the easy way. and that's not always the right way. I would probably have to back it with bedliner and, well who knows how that would turn out. maybe for the trail beater, and whenever I get around to sending another your way for "shelf queen" and concourse duty.
oh and I still have a disc to go through that might have a pic of his actual 1:1. i will post findings here.

I called in a favor on that one!!! So got it at cost! "thumbsup" And don't worry about cost, you are not the first that I have sponsored on here with parts. As I told you before, Marcia and I feel blessed so it is all part of passing it on!
Ernie