I am new to the site and just got a used crawler that I think is a stampede based crawler and I am having problems with the xl5 esc. It was fine at first but now it turns fine but when I try to move forward or reverse the green light turns off and it wont move. I reprogrammed the esc for my remote and it will work for about 30 seconds and then do the same thing again. I thought it could be bad connections but i checked all the wiring and it looks fine. Any ideas?
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traxxas xl5 esc problem
- Thread starter axelman
- Start date
Trubble
Proverbial threadkiller
green light........
check the front panel near the ON button, does it say something like "Low Voltage Detection"?
And are you running NiMh batteries?
I don't know if I just don't see something obvious but the on button is right next to the light that i am talking about on the xl5 esc and their isn't a spot on my esc that would tell me something like low voltage detection unless that is what the green light shutting off is supposed to tell me. Also I am running NiMh batteries for now. thanks
chicostaxxs007
RCC Addict
Charlie-III
I wanna be Dave
In general, you can mix/match brands of electronics with little to no issues.
I have a Futaba radio with Novak, Tekin & Castle Creations ESC's connected with no issues (not all at once......over a few different rigs).
Trubble
Proverbial threadkiller
It'd say it on the front panel not up on top. Also note if you have the LVD, Traxxas would be in a black box, and waterproof would be on a blue background, the non-LVD one they'd both be in a white box. Found this post in a different forum.
romian said:No Lvd one:
Lvd one:
Your symptoms just sound like the classic thermalling/LVD issues.
What motor and servo are you using?
Trubble
Proverbial threadkiller
Okay. Those ESC's can be kinda sketchy on hitting the low voltage cutoff early, but that wouldn't apply here.
Unless somebody else has got any ideas, my next three things to rule out would be,
1) which Futaba servo? Hopefully the tag's still up on top, probably hiding under the arm.
2) which motor?
3) you're running NiMh's, 6 or 7 cells right? With the 8 cell I cobbled together, my XL-5's won't even turn on.
Unless somebody else has got any ideas, my next three things to rule out would be,
1) which Futaba servo? Hopefully the tag's still up on top, probably hiding under the arm.
2) which motor?
3) you're running NiMh's, 6 or 7 cells right? With the 8 cell I cobbled together, my XL-5's won't even turn on.
Trubble
Proverbial threadkiller
For sticking with NiMh's;
Had excellent luck with Duratrax DTX 4600 NiMh's, like 'em a lot.
Kinda like my Traxxas Series 3, but I imagine the Series 4, (and rumored Series 5), would give longer runtime.
unimpressed with DTX 3800's and Reedy Wolfpacks (3600 mAh).
If you're wliing to learn how to handle them, there's always going LiPo......
Had excellent luck with Duratrax DTX 4600 NiMh's, like 'em a lot.
Kinda like my Traxxas Series 3, but I imagine the Series 4, (and rumored Series 5), would give longer runtime.
unimpressed with DTX 3800's and Reedy Wolfpacks (3600 mAh).
If you're wliing to learn how to handle them, there's always going LiPo......
Charlie-III
I wanna be Dave
Actually, if you have a charger that will do them, they are CHEAPER than NiCD/NiMH for the size (small) weight (light) power!
Trust me, I still run NiMH in my 12th & 10th pan cars, only because I have them set up for it (balance & suspension). At some point, I will convert them to LiPO as well.
