• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Toyota Land Cruiser BJ40

the-gamer

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Aug 16, 2009
Messages
318
Location
Portugal
Hello there!

Since RC4WD released the G2 with the Cruiser body, I wanted one with the intention of making a replica of my father's BJ40.

A bit of background story of the 1:1.
It belonged to the company my father worked for and was is dailly driver. I remember riding in the back with my friends coming and going to elementary school! I remember even better our heads hitting the hard metal, in the back! Ah... Good old days! :mrgreen:
Then, they assigned another car for my father and the BJ40 was used as a work horse pulling heavy equipment. Due to that, the rear was fitted with a heavy dutty leaf stack, which made the rear as hard as a brick. Well, my father retired about 10 years ago and managed to save the BJ from the scrapyard! It was in a really bad shape... You will notice that the rear of the cab looks weird... That is because it was fitted with a steel panel to protect the original panel from rusting more and fall apart... A few years ago the motor got tired and had to be replaced. The "new" motor was the same as the original, but in good condition! Also, the wheels were striped down and painted in the wrong color. They were the same color as the body.

Some photos of the 1:1:

DSC_2292.jpg


DSC_2293.jpg


DSC_2294.jpg


DSC_2295.jpg


DSC_2296.jpg


DSC_2297.jpg


DSC_2298.jpg


DSC_2299.jpg


DSC_2300.jpg


DSC_2301.jpg


DSC_2302.jpg


DSC_2303.jpg


DSC_2304.jpg



Now, the plan, like said before, was to make a replica, BUT, it wont happen... I do not have the patience, skills and most of all, the time to do this... But I'll make some things similar, like the color, the snorkel, the rear spare tire mount and will be changing the links to leafs.

I won't bother you with kit build pics, that has been done before, so let's jump ahead!


The grill is wrong...

tlcbj40-002-025.jpg



Thats more like it!

tlcbj40-002-026.jpg



I was able to score a can of the original paint! Yay! Problem is that the paint is about 10 years old... So it was very thick...

DSC_6996.jpg



The end result was not the best... Paint ended up with a matte finish... Well, so be it!

DSC_6998.jpg


DSC_6997.jpg



Was not impressed with the transparent stickers, so only used about 3 for the interior... The remaining details were painted by hand.

tlcbj40-004-001.jpg



Used bleach to strip the chorme and spray painted the roof and grill.

tlcbj40-004-002.jpg



I was very happy the way the roof looked till I peeled the tape... Poop... :evil: That's what you get for being lazy and not using the right tape...

tlcbj40-004-003.jpg


tlcbj40-004-004.jpg


tlcbj40-004-005.jpg



After a long struggle I managed to mount the body... It was really hard... The "glasses" didn't line up, the top didn't fit properly, the doors looked dented at the top... So, cutted the front glasses and screwed only the rear ones that still don't fit well... While at it, I cutted the driver glass to make it "open". I'll remove the grill and put some reflective material inside the front lights. Won't disassemble the body anytime soon, only if i'm drunk...

tlcbj40-004-006.jpg


tlcbj40-004-007.jpg


tlcbj40-004-008.jpg


tlcbj40-004-009.jpg


tlcbj40-004-010.jpg


tlcbj40-004-011.jpg


tlcbj40-004-012.jpg



As for the tires, I couldn´t find any that matched the 1:1 so, they will be the more that ok Baja MTZ 1.9. For the wheels I went with the Gmade SR03. Where I bought them only the Silver Semi gloss were available. When I got them, I removed the silver and was left with the primer. I noticed some bubbles under the primer. It turns out to be rust UNDER the primer... I think it's a bit lame for the Gmade to do this... I was aiming for a care look on the BJ but with this wheels... I'm sad... 5 ou of 6 wheels are like this or worse...

tlcbj40-004-013.jpg


tlcbj40-004-014.jpg
 
Looking Good.
I think you could fix the paint bleeding with a little bit of wet sanding with #2000 Grit.
A little rust on the wheels would give it a bit of Real world look.
Just saying.
 
Looking Good.
I think you could fix the paint bleeding with a little bit of wet sanding with #2000 Grit.
A little rust on the wheels would give it a bit of Real world look.
Just saying.

Thanks! ;-)

I wasn't looking for a weathered look on this one! They didn't came out of the factory rusted, right? I think! :mrgreen:

I haven't yet decided what to do with the paint bleed! :(
 
UPDATES! Yay!

Reflective material added to the headlights!

tlcbj40-005-001.jpg


tlcbj40-005-002.jpg


tlcbj40-005-004.jpg



The windows, at least for me, have proved a headache. The orignal didn't look very nice so I decided and made my own windows out of CD cases. The ruber around them is from electric wire.

tlcbj40-005-003.jpg


tlcbj40-005-005.jpg



Home made snorkel similar to the original, made from LEGO Technic "hose" and coated with shrink wrap! Need to make the top.

tlcbj40-005-006.jpg



Aging process.
It should have been done before applying the final paint, but ... You learn from mistakes.
I used two products.
One was the Scenic Rust Kit from Deluxe Materials (https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/76-scenic-rust-kit-5060243900661.html). It consists of three ingredients: powder, binder, and the developer. You mix the powder with the binder, apply it and after it's dry, apply the developer. After 8-10 hours you get a rusted look. To give a more dirty and used aspect, I used some components from Rustall (The Rustall scale model weathering system), in particular liquids 1 and 2. My technique to give the appearance of rust with bubbles is simple: apply a small portion of super glue, then apply the contents of bottle 4 from Rustall (which is nothing less than fine dirt) and let dry. Then apply the oxidant mix.

tlcbj40-005-007.jpg



It's ans on going process!

tlcbj40-005-008.jpg


tlcbj40-005-009.jpg


tlcbj40-005-010.jpg


tlcbj40-005-011.jpg


tlcbj40-005-012.jpg


tlcbj40-005-013.jpg
 
I just wanted to see how it looked with the tires and wheels! I like it very much! The front axle was pushed foward about 6mm.

The wheel "hubs" will be rusted!

tlcbj40-006-001.jpg


tlcbj40-006-002.jpg



Scale flex!

tlcbj40-006-003.jpg


tlcbj40-006-004.jpg


tlcbj40-006-005.jpg



A thick file, a hammer and some granite cubes (paralelos im portuguese) later...

tlcbj40-006-006.jpg



The same treatment for the rear bumper. Before...

tlcbj40-006-007.jpg



After...

tlcbj40-006-008.jpg
 
Last saturday I participated in a scale event and took the 8x8 and this Toyota! Was having fun with it but the stock driveshafts finally give up on me! Still had a lot of fun! :lol:

DSC_8048.jpg


DSC_8054.jpg


DSC_8057.jpg


DSC_8058.jpg


DSC_8059.jpg


On a side note, the yellow JK you see on the pictures was mine but my good friend Cooper bought it from me and made some kickass improvements! It performed awesome and managed to win most realistic scale of the event!! Congrats Cooper!! :nice::nice:
 
A nice trick to prevent paint from bleeding under tape: after masking, before painting the second color, paint a layer of the first color around the edges of the tape.
I will still bleed but it will not be noticeable because it's the same color.
 
Back
Top