Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
I bit the bullet and grabbed a DR10, after seeing the GNX body and watching some of the locals build these the bug bit me. The racing around here is pretty competitive, but a little more on that in the next post. First let’s talk about the DR10. All this no prep drag racing stuff is new to me, so take this with a grain of salt, but here are my thoughts as someone who likes the look but isn’t sure about utility.
First impressions the thing is pretty big. On paper it’s a nice package for $320. Fully RTR, comes with a brushless esc and 3300kv motor, 3S capable, aluminum shock bodies, decent looking body, and from what I know of it’s the only rtr that doesn’t need modifications to fit into the no prep rules.
Most no prep cars are converted 2wd short course trucks, team associated basically did the conversion for you and offers a good value rtr package. The rules get pretty specific but basically the tires need to tuck inside the body, wheelie bar has to be 10” or shorter, 2wd, and 2s for competing.
I digress, I started tinkering with the car. The first thing I did was add some decals. From the side stripes and the small door decal I think I’m probably closer to 3320kv now. After making it look faster I eventually put a battery in it and headed out for a test run.
I stuck a 2S battery in there so I’ll know what to expect if I race someone. And man, this thing is slow. The overall FDR was something over 12 (I think 12.566 if my math is right) so it is not really geared to be a drag racer out of the box. The best explanation I’ve read for this was that it was designed to be able to run a normal size 3S pack without stressing the electronics. In that regard, they were successful. But since this thing is made to go 132 feet at a time I had ordered up some different gearing options. I put gears in that were around a 6.7 FDR and it woke it up a good bit. Only mashed it a couple times with the new gearing before my pack died but it’s more fun now at least. I will also note that the motor screws were practically superglued, almost stripped them but the handy soldering iron and protek driver got them out and replaced. I’ve heard this is not uncommon and that I could run into similar issues elsewhere on the chassis.
So my plans at this point are to paint up the GNX body. I have some proline Hoosiers and plastic wheels to slap on as well. I’ll probably throw the 4600kv castle motor thats in my rally car into here instead and see how that goes. Other than that I’m not going to do much performance wise except tinker with gearing and maybe do another body down the road and some metal wheel hexes.
Thanks for reading along if you made it this far. Here are some pics.
First impressions the thing is pretty big. On paper it’s a nice package for $320. Fully RTR, comes with a brushless esc and 3300kv motor, 3S capable, aluminum shock bodies, decent looking body, and from what I know of it’s the only rtr that doesn’t need modifications to fit into the no prep rules.
Most no prep cars are converted 2wd short course trucks, team associated basically did the conversion for you and offers a good value rtr package. The rules get pretty specific but basically the tires need to tuck inside the body, wheelie bar has to be 10” or shorter, 2wd, and 2s for competing.
I digress, I started tinkering with the car. The first thing I did was add some decals. From the side stripes and the small door decal I think I’m probably closer to 3320kv now. After making it look faster I eventually put a battery in it and headed out for a test run.
I stuck a 2S battery in there so I’ll know what to expect if I race someone. And man, this thing is slow. The overall FDR was something over 12 (I think 12.566 if my math is right) so it is not really geared to be a drag racer out of the box. The best explanation I’ve read for this was that it was designed to be able to run a normal size 3S pack without stressing the electronics. In that regard, they were successful. But since this thing is made to go 132 feet at a time I had ordered up some different gearing options. I put gears in that were around a 6.7 FDR and it woke it up a good bit. Only mashed it a couple times with the new gearing before my pack died but it’s more fun now at least. I will also note that the motor screws were practically superglued, almost stripped them but the handy soldering iron and protek driver got them out and replaced. I’ve heard this is not uncommon and that I could run into similar issues elsewhere on the chassis.
So my plans at this point are to paint up the GNX body. I have some proline Hoosiers and plastic wheels to slap on as well. I’ll probably throw the 4600kv castle motor thats in my rally car into here instead and see how that goes. Other than that I’m not going to do much performance wise except tinker with gearing and maybe do another body down the road and some metal wheel hexes.
Thanks for reading along if you made it this far. Here are some pics.
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