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Toe Adjustment

scottyp

Newbie
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
35
Location
Pittsburgh
Can anyone point me in the right direction as far as how best to adjust Toe on a Pro. My right front wheel has excessive toe-in. Thanks
 
You can't really have toe in on one wheel on a vehicle without independent suspension. Adjust the servo horn, trim, sub-trim, or some combination of the three until both front wheels are toed-in equally. Then lengthen the steering draglink until the wheels are straight. It won't take much-- a turn or two on one of the rod ends is usually enough. Be aware that lack of toe-in, or a "neutral" front end will generally widen the turning radius, as the tire on the outside of the turn is now no longer turning as sharply.
 
A bit off topic, toe-in refers to the front of the tires being pinched in towards the frame right? Toe-out is the opposite and (excessive toe-out) would worsen the turning radius?

I just want to be sure I'm understanding the terminology correctly.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk
 
A bit off topic, toe-in refers to the front of the tires being pinched in towards the frame right? Toe-out is the opposite and (excessive toe-out) would worsen the turning radius?

I just want to be sure I'm understanding the terminology correctly.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

That is correct, Toe in is the front wheels pointing in towards the frame (towards the front of the vehicle)
 
A bit off topic, toe-in refers to the front of the tires being pinched in towards the frame right? Toe-out is the opposite and (excessive toe-out) would worsen the turning radius?

I just want to be sure I'm understanding the terminology correctly.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

With toe-out, the tire at the inside of the turn will be "turning" quite a bit more than the outside tire, and we (pretty much) all have zero-Ackermann steering. On things that go fast, and therefore don't have stuff like spooled differentials or rigid axles, toe-out (and Ackermann) is desirable as the inner tire is doing the work. With a rock crawler, as soon as the wheels go to lock, some amount of weight is going to transfer to the outside tire-- so that tire is now what determines the turning circle.

This is why when you go to full lock and give it throttle, the rig will "surge," as one tire is trying to go faster than the other, but as they're bound together, they cannot. I've found that a little bit of toe-in in the front is more beneficial than toe-out-- because we're generally traveling slower than a walking pace. As speed increases, so can toe-out, at least until the point that it hastens oversteer.
 
With toe-out, the tire at the inside of the turn will be "turning" quite a bit more than the outside tire, and we (pretty much) all have zero-Ackermann steering. On things that go fast, and therefore don't have stuff like spooled differentials or rigid axles, toe-out (and Ackermann) is desirable as the inner tire is doing the work. With a rock crawler, as soon as the wheels go to lock, some amount of weight is going to transfer to the outside tire-- so that tire is now what determines the turning circle.

This is why when you go to full lock and give it throttle, the rig will "surge," as one tire is trying to go faster than the other, but as they're bound together, they cannot. I've found that a little bit of toe-in in the front is more beneficial than toe-out-- because we're generally traveling slower than a walking pace. As speed increases, so can toe-out, at least until the point that it hastens oversteer.

That is correct, Toe in is the front wheels pointing in towards the frame (towards the front of the vehicle)
Okay, I thought I had that right. Thank you both for the input.

I was looking at my Gatekeeper and noticed the factory toe-out out and got my self confused on TI vs. TO while researching if there was a reason for it.

Sounds like I might be a bit better off, performance wise, with a bit of TI instead.
 
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