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Team Associated teasing a scale crawler!

I also had 3 of 4 leak. I contacted warranty and they sent me some oil and a rebuild kit.



I just discovered last night that one of the rod ends on the servo link was on upside down. There have been some funny posts of things people found installed incorrectly or maybe even not at all.... I would say Friday shift builds, but over there I don't think they get weekends...
Yup I had one that leaked in the box LOL
An email to customer service and I had parts and some oil in less than a week. Great service even with a holiday.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
On the RTR's check all fasteners. I got a nudge on almost every screw in the frame. They are using machines for assembly.
 
I'm bout to order the hard parts to go with my kit I have coming. Is it recommended to get all of them? Or is there one or two that reeeaaallly aren't that necessary? I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it's a worthy upgrade.
 
Servo mount/ skid, shock towers, braces. These should be the most important.
I also have the chubs and knuckles, SSD or Beef will replace them when out


Hang up and Drive
 
The aftermarket will be rolling out with many upgrade parts for the Enduro between now and Christmas. I for one am waiting on Scalerfab and Werty to be making some killer bumpers for this rig.

As to the hard parts offered by Associated, I can speak from 20+ years of racing experience that their upgrade parts are top notch. I wish they would make upgrade parts for the SCX10II.
 
yup and SSD/beeftubes are coming soon also.

like i said earlier... BRING ON THE LANDSLIDE OF AFTERMARKET GOODIES!!!!!!
 
I'm bout to order the hard parts to go with my kit I have coming. Is it recommended to get all of them? Or is there one or two that reeeaaallly aren't that necessary? I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if it's a worthy upgrade.


With AE's reputation I would run it for a while with the regular plastic and upgrade to the hard if you break some thing! Would save a few $$$ for other upgrades. But that's just my humble opinion. "thumbsup""thumbsup"
Ernie
 
LIKE!

also yes i am running mine as box-stock as possible. i DO need to check for loose fasteners and check my shock caps though. maybe vent the wheels too.
 
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Time to get busy!

2cfxxuh.jpg
 
With AE's reputation I would run it for a while with the regular plastic and upgrade to the hard if you break some thing! Would save a few $$$ for other upgrades. But that's just my humble opinion. "thumbsup""thumbsup"
Ernie

Solid advice, I've got over $100 in "hard" parts in my cart. There's a few I'll get for sure as the guys above mentioned, but there's a few I'm gonna skip for now I think.

Thanks everybody... "thumbsup"
 
Edit, SexyBob flexy chassis doesn’t hold the line where your brain/steering input is guiding it, just as your Honda doesn’t carve the sweet lines because of chassis flex, geometry changes caused by flex, etc. I sold one mountain bike in particular that had a sweet ride but always felt a little less precise handling than it should have been for the setup. Still remember one time on steep, fast off camber when I couldnt hold the line, tires were not slipping. Made the turn barely, but not where I was lined up for. Hope that answers your question better. :)

i think that is a good example of why it would hurt but i just dont think that is going to be noticable at low speed. my honda cornered on three wheels sometimes but always went where i wanted it. my tacoma has some suspension stuff so it can three wheel around a corner and i just learn to compensate for that if i'm going fast.

All of our examples involve speed which isn't really happening while crawling.

if i break something i will replace with the harder plastic but till then i was very impressed with the out of the box performance. took it out at WE Rock Donner Ski Ranch last weekend and it was hanging with my full droop Ascender which i have been crawling with for years. Axialfest is going to be cool this year!
 
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