sportsman twin force

[v84x4]

The bottom three screws are not needed
so you can put the pumpkin on a bench grinder and smooth out the bottom ;-)

if you haven't already sir ;-)

 

[joeyf]

Man I'm ready to see this rig in action. Keep up the good work

thanks

Looks damn nice! Yer taste buds on the other hand :lol:

thanks bud

i almost went with steel reserve. :mrgreen:

you could probably save a couple grams by only using every other colt on the pumpkins...

The bottom three screws are not needed
so you can put the pumpkin on a bench grinder and smooth out the bottom ;-)

if you haven't already sir ;-)

thanks guys. will probably do a combination of both ideas.

 

[mjderstine]

hey look at us all helping out. carefule or one of us might take credit for the whole thing.

 

[AxialJeepster]

yay bud. good work bro. very nice job man"thumbsup":ror:

 

[v84x4]

Can we ask for a total weight on this truck please :twisted:


Regards Rick

 

[joeyf]

hey look at us all helping out. carefule or one of us might take credit for the whole thing.

the more opinions the better. :ror:

yay bud. good work bro. very nice job man"thumbsup":ror:

thanks man.

Can we ask for a total weight on this truck please :twisted:


Regards Rick

will have to get a scale to do that's. "thumbsup"

 

[joeyf]

made the shafts today. for the fronts, mark where the shafts will pivot. then cut them down to that length. I sleeve them with stainless tube when I weld them back together.






you can get the right length dog bones for the rear. but the pin is to small for my liking. to much slop in the drive cups.

so I just cut and sleeve some with bigger pins.






finally on its own feet.

 

[mjderstine]

Looks great man.

If you want to get of more slop out of the rear you could always put universals there too.

 

[joeyf]

Looks great man.

If you want to get of more slop out of the rear you could always put universals there too.

thanks, i may end up doing that. will find out for sure once i start running it.





so here is the weight of it right know. this is going to go up with the SLW's and battery.









got some VooDoo's. four silvers and two blues.




got these from Diablo666 in the for sale section. just waiting for another pair to pop up so i can mount the tires.

 

[mjderstine]

that's pretty lightweight man. should make a killer shafty!

 

[joeyf]

shaved the knuckles and C's to get all the steering i can get out of the shafts.

before



after






i like using the axial bend rod ends. they give me just enough clearance that i dont have to make bends in the tie rod.





this steering setup may end up changing. i just dont like how low it is.

 

[mjderstine]

just a tip. when allowing the knuckles to turn more make sure that the CVD is not now hitting the inside of the knuckle on full steering. i have found that they usually hit before you bottom out on the C-hub after you do the grinding.

know what i mean? i can take a picture tonight.

 

[Bart bender]

Flip the servo horn and put the tie rod on top of the knuckles. Could even use the closer hole on the horn and trim it down.

 

[mjderstine]

yeah man. what bart said. i put my tierods as close in as i can get. that way i dont need that long arm on the servo.

you might be able to tell what i did in these pics with the tie rods. the drag link id on the end hole, but the control arm from the servo is very close in. that makes the servo hve to move very small amounts, and also speeds up the action a bunch.

the bottom picture you can see what i was doing.

 

[joeyf]

just a tip. when allowing the knuckles to turn more make sure that the CVD is not now hitting the inside of the knuckle on full steering. i have found that they usually hit before you bottom out on the C-hub after you do the grinding.

know what i mean? i can take a picture tonight.

thanks bud. i did run into that problem, so i shaved some material out, inside the knuckles.

 

[joeyf]

Flip the servo horn and put the tie rod on top of the knuckles. Could even use the closer hole on the horn and trim it down.

yeah man. what bart said. i put my tierods as close in as i can get. that way i dont need that long arm on the servo.

you might be able to tell what i did in these pics with the tie rods. the drag link id on the end hole, but the control arm from the servo is very close in. that makes the servo hve to move very small amounts, and also speeds up the action a bunch.

thanks for the help guys.




this is what i ended up with.






to make it work i put some spacers in the servo to move it back. so the tie rod wouldnt hit the servo horn at full turn.

 

[joeyf]

this is full lock. the shafts can still go more but the steering is hitting the axle.

 

[mjderstine]

yup, you know what you're doing! nice and clean on that linkage setup now.

 

[joeyf]

I got another pair of SLW's from the FS section. so I was able to order foams and mount the VooDoo's. for the foams I went with C.I. 6 inch double deuce's. the front's are medium comp cut's, rears are soft comp cuts.

 

[v84x4]

Its so Sick

If I send you all the parts will you build me one? ;-)


Regards Rick