Sparks1337
Pebble Pounder
So I’ve finally got round to starting a build thread for this. I needed a runner while my various builds were underway – make no mistake the baby Gelande is a lovely lovely thing, but instead of an RTR I just got another project. Deep breath, it’s a long post -
I started with the suspension - lower links moved inboard at the axle and springs cut in half for semi droop, lower ride height and full travel in the shocks. I didn't like the dirt grabbers so swapped to a set of Rok Lox:
I didn't like the look of inboard lower links so I took two sets of pliers to them and bent them at the ends to look a bit like the uppers, only reversed and a much less pronounced kink. This reduces angle the the ball ends have to go through and gives the same amount of travel as mounting them inboard - I might've shortened the wheelbase a fraction, but it isn't noticeable. No pics of this, sorry.
Then I set about the power issue. I wanted to keep the pretty little RC4WD transfer box but it needs a further 2:1 to 3:1 reduction, and I really felt a truck with this weight was crying out for big block power. After a few attempts I came up with this:
Shaft and pinion from the stock motor, with a 48T gear, two 4x1.5x2 ball bearings, two 8mm M2 spacers from a HBX, some 2mm ally sheet, drilled and tapped, and sections of 4mm and 5mm OD ally tube:
It is a bit of an odd design, but it is super sturdy. Mounting the two bearings in a 5mm tube with a 4mm tube inserted between them as a seat allows the axle to run nice and true, despite my less than accurate metalwork
For info the 130/180 motor mount holes are 12mm apart, the stock RC4WD motor has 10mm spacing.
It has just enough clearance to fit a 180 stroker in there without hitting the links. It's running a 15T pinion for 3:2 reduction - slightly too much for trail running really - about 2mph flat out. I'm going to experiment with up to a 22T pinion to see what ratio gives the best balance of low speed control and top speed.
Here is a very quick demo vid:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_TreeTest%201_low_zpsd2oml8yp.mp4
Next up was paint, but first I needed to fix the mirrors - I snapped one not long after opening the box and they're on the wrong way round. I used plastic-coated wire filed to a square cross-section and styrene sheet to make mounting sockets and arms. I chopped the other mirror up and drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom for the new arm. I also made a snorkel using a drinking straw and styrene tube:
The mounts plug into the existing mirror holes in the body and glued in. The arms plug into the mirror and were superglued. The other end plugs into the 1mm hole drilled in the mount - gummed up with threadlock so that they are secure but will fold flat in a roll-over. I can confirm they work as intended
I followed Bills advice on dismantling the body - I'm sure I would've snapped something without it, and I think it’s worth repeating and expanding on here. No pics again though sorry.
Undo the four screws holding the body parts together. Roof first – it is a tight fit and has to be manipulated. The join is under the gutter on either side – run your fingernails back and forwards until it starts to go – front seemed to lift first and after a few dummy runs the back eventually fives way. The front window just drops out after that.
The rear windows are all one piece and really put up a fight so be careful – it took me ages to get it out and there are some really thin sections over the side windows that you can easily snap.
I went a stage further than Bill and removed all the detail parts as well. The mirrors, door handles, side repeaters, second rear number plate, vents front light panels and grille all mount with plastic pegs through holes in the body, melted over inside.
Use a sharp craft knife/scalpel to slice away the melted plastic and they just pop out. A drop of glue is needed to re-install but they are a tight press fit. The rear light clusters are glued to the body but can be gently prised free. Makes painting a whole lot easier.
I wanted a panel van, so after some hesitation I cut either side of the side window mouldings and along the top of the waistline, then inseted some 2mm styrene sheet, with an overlapping lip along the waist and reinforcements at either end on the iside. filled and sanded they came out reasonably well I think. Cutting out the side wiindows made replacing the glass a damn sight easier too
Onto the paint. I wanted mine to look like a typical enthusiast UK off-roader so went for a proper LR colour - Arles Blue, with a white roof. I thought about painting the wheels white, but bottled it. Black is also good
I'm pretty happy with how it performs - the lack of travel is made up for by power, even on 2s - on 3s this thing would be mental. Hoping they release CVDs and a redesigned knuckle as the lack of steering is now its major downfall. I kind of like the weight and limited suspension travel – it moves around more like a 1:1 would and makes a great trail runner. I’m sure a losi could still run rings around it in a comp crawl but this is in a different league in terms of scale looks and feel.
Here is a vid of a gentle run at Black Rocks, Derbyshire:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_Backwoods_Bobble_zpswpowuxfb.mp4
The disadvantages of this setup are that it requires the rear brace to be removed, but this is in two pieces so leaves a simple crossmember. I also can't now opt for more travel than allowed with the stock suspension components, and it throws a lot of weight out back - offset to some extent by the deleted chassis brace. I've shifted all the electronics under the bonnet and weighted the front wheels slightly to compensate.
I’m working up the enthusiasm to tackle lights next, then maybe an interior, or at least inner arches and some sort of floorpan in styrene. But my WIP HBX FJ70 has languished too long …
I started with the suspension - lower links moved inboard at the axle and springs cut in half for semi droop, lower ride height and full travel in the shocks. I didn't like the dirt grabbers so swapped to a set of Rok Lox:
I didn't like the look of inboard lower links so I took two sets of pliers to them and bent them at the ends to look a bit like the uppers, only reversed and a much less pronounced kink. This reduces angle the the ball ends have to go through and gives the same amount of travel as mounting them inboard - I might've shortened the wheelbase a fraction, but it isn't noticeable. No pics of this, sorry.
Then I set about the power issue. I wanted to keep the pretty little RC4WD transfer box but it needs a further 2:1 to 3:1 reduction, and I really felt a truck with this weight was crying out for big block power. After a few attempts I came up with this:
Shaft and pinion from the stock motor, with a 48T gear, two 4x1.5x2 ball bearings, two 8mm M2 spacers from a HBX, some 2mm ally sheet, drilled and tapped, and sections of 4mm and 5mm OD ally tube:
It is a bit of an odd design, but it is super sturdy. Mounting the two bearings in a 5mm tube with a 4mm tube inserted between them as a seat allows the axle to run nice and true, despite my less than accurate metalwork
For info the 130/180 motor mount holes are 12mm apart, the stock RC4WD motor has 10mm spacing. It has just enough clearance to fit a 180 stroker in there without hitting the links. It's running a 15T pinion for 3:2 reduction - slightly too much for trail running really - about 2mph flat out. I'm going to experiment with up to a 22T pinion to see what ratio gives the best balance of low speed control and top speed.
Here is a very quick demo vid:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_TreeTest%201_low_zpsd2oml8yp.mp4
Next up was paint, but first I needed to fix the mirrors - I snapped one not long after opening the box and they're on the wrong way round. I used plastic-coated wire filed to a square cross-section and styrene sheet to make mounting sockets and arms. I chopped the other mirror up and drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom for the new arm. I also made a snorkel using a drinking straw and styrene tube:
The mounts plug into the existing mirror holes in the body and glued in. The arms plug into the mirror and were superglued. The other end plugs into the 1mm hole drilled in the mount - gummed up with threadlock so that they are secure but will fold flat in a roll-over. I can confirm they work as intended
I followed Bills advice on dismantling the body - I'm sure I would've snapped something without it, and I think it’s worth repeating and expanding on here. No pics again though sorry.
Undo the four screws holding the body parts together. Roof first – it is a tight fit and has to be manipulated. The join is under the gutter on either side – run your fingernails back and forwards until it starts to go – front seemed to lift first and after a few dummy runs the back eventually fives way. The front window just drops out after that.
The rear windows are all one piece and really put up a fight so be careful – it took me ages to get it out and there are some really thin sections over the side windows that you can easily snap.
I went a stage further than Bill and removed all the detail parts as well. The mirrors, door handles, side repeaters, second rear number plate, vents front light panels and grille all mount with plastic pegs through holes in the body, melted over inside.
Use a sharp craft knife/scalpel to slice away the melted plastic and they just pop out. A drop of glue is needed to re-install but they are a tight press fit. The rear light clusters are glued to the body but can be gently prised free. Makes painting a whole lot easier.
I wanted a panel van, so after some hesitation I cut either side of the side window mouldings and along the top of the waistline, then inseted some 2mm styrene sheet, with an overlapping lip along the waist and reinforcements at either end on the iside. filled and sanded they came out reasonably well I think. Cutting out the side wiindows made replacing the glass a damn sight easier too
Onto the paint. I wanted mine to look like a typical enthusiast UK off-roader so went for a proper LR colour - Arles Blue, with a white roof. I thought about painting the wheels white, but bottled it. Black is also good
I'm pretty happy with how it performs - the lack of travel is made up for by power, even on 2s - on 3s this thing would be mental. Hoping they release CVDs and a redesigned knuckle as the lack of steering is now its major downfall. I kind of like the weight and limited suspension travel – it moves around more like a 1:1 would and makes a great trail runner. I’m sure a losi could still run rings around it in a comp crawl but this is in a different league in terms of scale looks and feel.
Here is a vid of a gentle run at Black Rocks, Derbyshire:
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/mungo1337/RC%20Cars/th_1-18Gelande180_Backwoods_Bobble_zpswpowuxfb.mp4
The disadvantages of this setup are that it requires the rear brace to be removed, but this is in two pieces so leaves a simple crossmember. I also can't now opt for more travel than allowed with the stock suspension components, and it throws a lot of weight out back - offset to some extent by the deleted chassis brace. I've shifted all the electronics under the bonnet and weighted the front wheels slightly to compensate.
I’m working up the enthusiasm to tackle lights next, then maybe an interior, or at least inner arches and some sort of floorpan in styrene. But my WIP HBX FJ70 has languished too long …
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