Soze's SCX10 III Jeep JLU Build

[soze]

I'm going to try not to fall behind on this one. So here's the progress of my SCX10 III Build.

Follow this build on YouTube


Many of the parts I used can be found on eBay. As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Kit:

Axial SCX10 III Jeep JLU Kit (eBay)



Parts:

TGH Mild Portal Overdrive Gears
TBS Brass Portal Covers (eBay)
Boom Racing 11T 32p Steel pinion



Electronics:

Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport 540 13T (eBay)
42kg metal geared/housing servo (eBay)
Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 ESC (eBay)
Turnigy/Flysky GT5 Radio (eBay)
Turnigy/Flysky FS-BS6 Receiver (eBay)(eBay)
Castle Creations 10A BEC
Gearhead RC RX Bypass - RPP Hobby - (Similar bypasses on eBay)


Tools:

Versachem Brake Caliper Grease (eBay)
Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant (ebay)
Associated 1656 FT 1/4 in Driver Handle (ebay)
Tamiya Side Cutter (eBay)
Protek RC Shock Pliers (eBay)
DEWALT DCF610S2R 12V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4 in. Hex Chuck Screwdriver Kit (eBay)
MIP Metric Speed Tip Set MIP9512 (eBay)
MIP Metric Nut Driver Wrench Set MIP9503 (eBay)
Bob Smith Industries Blue Thread Locker (eBay)
Duratrax Shock stand (eBay)
Noleen SF3 Grease (on eBay)
Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station (eBay)
Multistar Rubber R/C Work mat
IWISS Crimping Tool (eBay)
Universal Servo Cable Wire Connector Crimp Pin Kit (eBay)
E6000 Adhesive (eBay)

 

[soze]

Part 1 - Axles (Steps A1-A7)

We kick off this build with the axles. Like the Capra, all the parts are neatly organized by bags and easily found. It's a welcome change vs. past kits where a lot of time was spent just hunting for the parts needed to complete the steps.

You'll need bag "A" for the parts to build the axles.

Step A1

Step A2

Step A3

Reminder! Make sure you use the portal covers labeled #1 for the front axles.

Step A4

Step A5

Step A6

Step A7

And that completes the first part of the build!

 

[2mtech]

Comprehensive and well shot as always, my friend! "thumbsup"

Please continue.

 

[Topher Builds]

Nice start Soze! Looking forward to seeing this one come along.

 

[soze]

Part 2 - Shocks (Step B-1)

So, these shocks turned out to be the same ones as the Capra, but shorter (finally compared it with my Capra to verify)! Some people didn't like these, but I'm actually ok with them. The only problem I had with them on my Capra was that they were too long. I think these would be a good candidate to put on my Capra, but we'll see if they fit my needs for the SCX10.3.


You'll need the parts from bag B for this step.

Parts all laid out.

If you don't have a set of shock pliers yet, I highly recommend you pick up a pair. I use the ProTek RC Shock pliers.

I don't have pictures of this, but basically I used Noleen SF3 Grease to grease the o-rings for the bottom of the shock shaft. I also made sure I did not over-tighten the bottom cap, but just snug enough to ensure smooth movement.

E-Clips... we all love them... not. I have found what works for me as far as the e-clips go though, and I didn't have much trouble this time around. Here's what I do as far as installing those e-clips.

First e-clip, I utilize the surface I'm working on to get it on by pressing down on the shaft with the e-clip wedged between the shaft and the table.

After the pistons are added, the second e-clip can't be approached the same was as the first, because the piston won't allow for it.

For the second e-clip, I utilize the flat edge on my pliers to do the same trick. Takes a little more finesse though.

And here we have all those darn e-clips installed!

Shock pliers... great way to easily grab a hold of the shock shaft without scoring it.

I decided to slime the o-rings on the cap as well.

No pictures, but basically, just fill with oil, let the bubbles out, and the bled them. I really like that these shocks have bleeder caps. Makes it so much easier to get the air out to ensure smooth cycling.

Now, I've got all 4 shocks done, and this completes this part!

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Just lost an e-clip <3 <3


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[soze]

Part 3 - Transmission Assembly (Steps C1-C6)


For this part you'll need bag C.

Step C1:

This is my method of where to press the e-clip down on the pliers.

Step C2

Step C3:

Step C4:

Step C5:

The nuts that go into the slots on this piece kept on wanting to fall out. So I used a dab of black grease on the nuts and after that they stayed in the slot while working on it.

Step C6:

I'm going with a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport 13T 540.

I had a Boom Racing 11T 32p Steel pinion on hand.

All done with this part of the build!

 

[soze]

Part 4 - Links (Steps D1-D6) and Drive-shaft (Step E1)


No one likes building links, but honestly... these new links in the Capra and the SCX10.3 aren't too bad. Quality rod-ends, good heft to the links, and the hole in the link to help you fine tune the link while installed. Much better than the links in the past. Metal pivot balls are also included!


You'll need bag D

Step D1

Step D2

The rod-ends in this picture aren't perfectly faced in the correct direction yet, as it was hard to tell from the manual. Once you get to the part where you add the panhard to the chassis, it'll become apparent how the rod-ends should be facing.

Step D3

Step D4

Step D5

Step D6

And that's it with all the links!

For the drive-shaft, you'll need bag E

Step E1

I had to file down one of the outputs. It had a slight aberration around the hole that wouldn't allow me to install the drive-shaft on.

And that does it for this part of the build.

 

[soze]

Part 5 - Chassis Assembly (F1-F10)

Getting to the part where everything is all starting to come together!

You'll need bags F and K

Step F1

Step F2

Step F3

Like a lot of people, I had to cut out a notch to fit the servo.

Step F4

The legend for this step says you only need 4x M3x12mm countersunk screws, but you actually need 6 of them.

Step F5

Step F6

There is a mistake in the instructions here as far as the legend goes. It states that only 2x of the M3x12 countersunk screws are needed when you in fact need 4 of them.

Step F7

You'll run into another mistake here. The legend for F7 shows that you need 4x M3x10 countersunk screws when you only really need 2 of them.

Step F8

Pay attention to the groove for the panhard bar and make sure the rod-ends for the panhard bar are in the correct direction for the panhard bar to move into that groove when the suspension is compressed.

Step F9

It has been recommended to get a M3 tap for the shock towers holes to mount the shocks. I didn't have a M3 tap, so I did the next best thing that completely worked out fine for me. I took the supplied black grease and squirted some into the shock tower hole I wanted to use. I then took the screw for this step and proceeded to thread the hole in the shock tower. Then I backed the screw out and proceeded to mount the shocks.

The axle panhard mount is also not very intuitive. You need to mount the panhard mount from the rear like it shows in the instructions, BUT when you look at the axle, you'll notice that the hole for the panhard mount is bigger in the front than the rear. This intuitively would say that you need to mount the panhard to the front of the panhard mount, but that's not the case. I wonder if it was just an oversight. In any case, just carefully enlarge and thread the panhard from the rear of the axle panhard mount.

Step F10

Again with this step, since I didn't have a M3 tap for the shock towers, I used the black grease in the hole and pre-thread with the screw trick.

And we've pretty much got a chassis!

 

[soze]

Part 6 - Battery Tray, Electronics, Fenders, Motor Cover (G1-G4, H1-H2)

This build is seriously taking longer than I would like, but I guess it's good to have a job that's still pretty busy even during these Covid-19 times... so I'm thankful.

Here's the parts bags and electronics I'll be using.

For now I'm going with the following electronics:
- Hobbywing WP-1080 ESC
- Spektrum SX-107 Micro Servos
- Turnigy/Flysky GT5 Radio
- FlySky FS-BS6 Receiver
- Castle Creations 10A BEC
- Gearhead RC RX Bypass - RPP Hobby


We'll start off with bag G

r


Step G1 - I'm going to add both battery trays for now, and use the rear one for the time being. I'm sure I'll switch it up in the future.

Step G2

Step G3

Had to crimp up some servo extensions.

Step G4

Step H1

Step H2

And that completes this part.

 

[soze]

Went back and detailed up the motor cover a little bit.

Also wired up the BEC

Soldering the leads to the XT60 connector

Pulled back the XT60 sleeve from the Hobbywing 1080 to solder.

After soldering, just slide the sleeve right back over.

Using a Gearhead RC RX Bypass. Makes things easy.

Used 3M Fabric tape to bundle up the BEC wiring.

 

[2mtech]

Looking good, soze! Nice detail on the engine cover...I lacked the heart and patience for the fine work.

 

[dezracer99]

Good job! Everything looks superb!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Engine looks great! I love how you took the time to draw the pleats on the filter.

 

[soze]

Part 7 - Wheels, Tires, Body, Bumpers, Completion ( I1, J1-J8 )

Well, we're at the final stretch of a stock build.


For this final part of the build you'll need bags I and J

Step I1 - I'm going to be using the Capra wheels instead since the silver ones don't fit my color scheme.

Step J1

I used the following paints to paint up the body and interior.

Pro-Line Slate Blue (eBay)
Pro-Line Black (eBay)
Pro-Line Matte Clear (eBay)
Pro-Line Primer Gray (eBay)
Tamiya PS-5 Black (eBay)
Tamiya XF-15 Flat Flesh (eBay)


Step J2

Step J3

Step J4

Step J5

Step J6

Step J7

Step J8

Finally done with the build in stock form!

 

[durok]

My fave mix of colors/decals/wheels/tires so far, and incredible interior painting!

I'd love to have that as a 1:1 weekend toy..."thumbsup"

 

[JatoTheRipper]

That's a really nice color. It looks great.

 

[B-MOW71]

Looks awesome soze!"thumbsup"

Nice detailing on the interior and engine! I like the body color you chose. It's going to look great out on the rocks!

Now I need to get caught up on your YT videos again!

 

[2mtech]

Looks great, soze! Nice work "thumbsup"

 

[soze]

Thanks guys. I really like the color. I like a lot of the Pro-Line colors that they have.

My only problem is... I still had to back it with Tamiya Black rattle can. I was trying to avoid rattle cans completely to avoid off-gassing fumes and the wife's super powered toxic smell detector.

I don't know if it was my prep work, or the way I painted it (multiple layers time in between), but the paint still felt soft after sitting out for a week. Just handling the body some of the paint kind of scraped off with my fingernails.
It would appear the paint had not hardened enough like the Tamiya paints do. So I sprayed Tamiya Black over all of it so that the Tamiya paint would harden up so I could handle the body without worrying about scraping off paint.

I definitely used less rattle can paint overall which is good. So at least I cut down on that. If I have to put one rattle can backing over it, then so be it.
I'll be experimenting more with it and seeing if maybe I have to spray even thinner layers than I did last time and scuff the body up more. It could all just be my inexperience with airbrushing as this was my first time.