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Some laugh, most don't...

I hate to go over this, but this needs to be stated. DO NOT make assumptions about my system untill you acually hear this thing! Don't stereotype (lol... Ironic...) just because I've made stupid accusations in the past, this is something I know and have spent time to study about. I know if I was smarter 4 months ago, I would have made a better choice, and the ONLY thing wrong about those subs is the fact that the VAS is so high, soooo just build a big box, McDuh. My current pics on the install gallery are not what the semi-final stage of the box looks like; no white crap everywhere (cualking) and there is a third port the equal length of the previous two, before with only 2 ports, it sounded like it was only tuned to ~60hz, with the 3rd port, tuning is now around 35, where I want it, and omg does it sound good... I was at an audioshop today and was pulling out and blasting my stuff and I had to turn the dang Bass Remote down cuz I couldn't hear anything other than. I Almost want to build a smaller box cuz this thing is about the point that it's rude.
Before there are any post to contersink this. No I do not hear the rattle. Yes my front and rear stage are quite loud.

I know I'm gonna bite the dust for this post, but dang I just can't be left with quotations around System signafying that there are non-believers...
 
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Hey all, this is only my 2nd post here.. and first public one, and i might as well come straight out of the box lookin like a jerk:

nova, that box looks well built, but the port design is gradeschool.. You could get MUCH better performance (spl especially) out of those subs (american pro's?? ..wtf..) with a big inch square port. And with all the room to work with in the back of a pickup i'm sure you can come up with something better than a couple of holes in the front of the box with what i'm assuming is pvc behind them. and a 40 hz tune, that thing MUST sound like hell, i've built many ported boxes, the highest tune being 35 hz, out of a SQ sub and it still sounded like bunghole. (re HC 15" quad .7 ohm vc's, 1500w of power).

And the setup of the subs in the bed w/ a cap on it loud? Yes, but only really to those in the bed.. sure you can open the slider, or drill a hole in the cap, but you're still not gonna get any spl out of it without some kind of solid connection between the cab and the bed. I could go into details, but that would be too much typing and i'm lazy.

If you havent gathered enough from the rest of my message.. i'm calling you out. go get it metered and then tell me what you hit. i was hitting 130's to 140's with my sq L7 box with 1500 watts to that one sub. I doubt you're getting much louder than that with your whole setup, and the crappy layout (spl wise) of the system

I'm no noob when it comes to stereo's, i've gone through so many that i'm ashamed to tell how much i've spent on them, both my time, and my money. I only have a couple pics of boxes i've built if you're doubting me.. a wedge profile ported box for a 12" L7 (fits behind seat of YJ), and a big *** clunky 5.5 cube box for my HC which was my first ported build.
 
92on35's:

you sound like you really know what you are talking about... can i ask you a question.. if it dosen't jack this thread..

myer-emco is tellimg me that there'e something wrong with my setup and that's why i'm blowing subs.. jl 12w3v2d2 in stealthbox under the middle seat of my 99 ram qc.. power is a sony 780w bridged mono, kenwood 959 head unit, 2 optima yellow tops, and rockford 1 farad cap, 4 ga wire everywhere

the first sub lasted 3 years running hard, the last one barely lasted 3 weeks, and i didn't even push it that hard.. both sales people (1 time with the orig sub, 1 time with the 1st replacement) told me that there was NO WAY i could blow that sub...

now after the 2nd replacement, they're telling me that there must be something wrong with my setup.. i ask them why the first sub lasted 3 years and all they do is mumble..

another guy i talked to suggested clipping, but the sound doesn't seem to change at high volume levels.. is there a way to tell?

thanks

bdr
 
Sales people are lyers, you can blow any sub with the right power and rig-up...

I'm not going to meter it cuz that would be a waste of $25, the box doesn't come close to fitting in the cab, and the window doesn't side out, which is totally wierd cuz S-10's usually had the sliders.

Trust me, I'm looking for a good vehicle, and once I have one, thats gonna be one of my first things I do.
 
is the sony 1 ohm stable?? what config are you wiring the subs? series or paralell?

if you're wired paralell your ohm load will be 1 ohm, and your sony will either blow up, or clip the hell out of your sub. You cant hear clipping, other than a pop every once in a while.. and if it pops.. you've already been clipping it for a long time (sub vc's dont like clipping).

if i were you, i'd run a different amp than the sony (hell, if you've got 2 yellow tops and JL/Rockford equipment you can afford a decent amp).. get an amp that is rated for 3-400w rms @ 4 ohms, and wire your sub series and get a 4 ohm load. (ppi pcx-2125, if you can find that amp on ebay or any place cheap.. BUY IT!! best amp i ever had, ran it at 1.5 ohms for years and it's lowest rating is 4 ohms). Any old kicker zr amps are great, a zr-240 would be plenty for a w3v2, but they're pretty rare, and people hold onto them.
 
the sub is wired series, and the amp is at least 4 ohm stable.. i can't find the specs on the dang amp...

what i need for new amps.. (i waat to ditch the xplod 4 channel main amp too) is one that will run upside down.. xtant looks like it might do the job, but that's big money..

my installation is inside the seat and as it's folded down all the time... i'm going to put plexi over it all and have 4 computer fans (2 blowin in at 1 end, 2 blowing out at the other) eventually, but i want to get the right amps first

i guess i'll have to keep the power down.... it's only turned up halfway on the amp, bas boost is under half, and the sub setting on the head unit is usually 3 to 5 out of 15...

is there a meter or something i can get to tell if it's clipping?

bdr
 
Even my first amp, POS Thump audio 250w, was no bigger than a graphing calculator and 2 ohm stable, if there is anything "Xplod" in your system besides the head unit, I would fear to leave it alone for more than 5 minutes going for the fear of my car catching fire!

I'll find something, it doesn't have to be till December, so there is plenty of time for the oppertune vehicle.

There is no meter to tell you if there is clipping, if anything, it would be obvious. I wish I could draw here how a clipping signal would be, but I'll try to explain.

If you passed the 6th grade, then you should know what a sound wave looks like, for bass, it's usually a nice, rounded, curvy line, well when clipping is involved, the wave ampriture (Not sure if thats the right word, it's been a while) is increased beyond musical definition and the top of the wave is "Cut off", meaning it should sound like crap.

It might be clipping, but most clipping hurts the amp more than the sub (Even more so that it's Xplod) so it must be the enclosure, and if it's a Bandpass box, that would explain everything.
 
aww don't pick on my xplod's... lol they have run upside down inside the rear seat for like 5 years.. and that driving them hard... i've only put the 760 into thermal over load once.. and that was because a girl was sitting on the middle seat and she really wanted to feel the bass because she was going to........


well never mind that story... lol

thanks for the info on clipping, i do understand what the wave looks like.. and i thought that i could hear it, but i guess not

the box is a sealed unit.. i miss my dual 10" band pass... i could rattle stuff on the walls of my friends trak auto from outside.. i can't project that much energy with the stealthbox, but even w/ triple dynamat on the roof and double dynamat everywhere else.. i can still shake the sh*t out of the truck...

the only things in the system xplod are the amps.. headunit is kenwood 959.. (i think that's the number).. it's the top of the line flip face that's not the excelon (didn't like the silver.. wish i had that one's display tho)

i guess i'll try and take it to a shop and see if they can put a scope on it

bdr
 
Nova said:
if there is anything "Xplod" in your system besides the head unit, I would fear to leave it alone for more than 5 minutes going for the fear of my car catching fire!

If I were you I'd be worried about fires anyway...

MVC%2D024X%2EJPG



If your speakers are installed (and "mounted") like that, I'd hate to see the wiring on the power side of things. :shock:

Maybe one day you'll hit the brakes, that speaker will fly forward, hit you in the head, and knock some sense into you.
 
bigdogrod said:
thanks for the info on clipping, i do understand what the wave looks like.. and i thought that i could hear it, but i guess not
You CAN hear clipping. And if you can't, you're deaf.

But talking to bass heads is like talking to a brick wall.

No offense... :|
 
JasonInAugusta said:
If I were you I'd be worried about fires anyway...

.


Yea, for real. How can you even try to defend your low budget setup when your install was completed in 10 minutes?
 
The wires above it are power wires for something, it was there when we got it.

Wow, 2 10" duals hit hard for you?? A senior last year had the 2 12" duals in the bandpass and he couldn't even beat someone with a single MTX! But that was Circuit City installation crap...
 
JasonInAugusta said:
If your speakers are installed (and "mounted") like that, I'd hate to see the wiring on the power side of things. :shock:

How would you mount them????? My reasons:
1. Can't cut holes in the doors, or anywhere for that matter.
2. I don't want them in a box behind the seat cuz then I can't hear the highs.
3. I don't want to spend the time and money making kick-pods, cuz in about a month, there will be nothing in the pickup.
 
Nova said:
The wires above it are power wires for something, it was there when we got it.

Wow, 2 10" duals hit hard for you?? A senior last year had the 2 12" duals in the bandpass and he couldn't even beat someone with a single MTX! But that was Circuit City installation crap...


Power wires for something?

You're not at all concerned about that? :shock:

As for mounting the 6x9s...at some point you just gotta realize that you can't half-*** your way through stuff and try to talk it up like it's the best thing ever.

As far as Circuit City...take your truck there and they'll laugh your *** outta the bay.
 
LOL, y'all are some funny mofos! :lol: As for Xplod stuff, I have had a pretty decent setup in just about every ride I get, and recently picked up a '89 Cherokee. Didn't wanna pull the stuff outta my S10( Alpine head, 6" JL mid bass and tweets, 2 10" Orions, and 2 RF Punch 60's), so I picked up a nice little Xplod head unit, some Xplod 6inch doors, Xplod 6x9's, and an Xplod 500 watt 4 CH all for a pretty decent amount of cash. Added a pair of JBL 10" tubes and a RF Punch 60 that I had layin' around to that and it's one rockin' little *****. Got the 500 Watt Xplod runnin' the 2 6x9's and the tubes and the Punch 60 runnin the doors.

I haven't had a bit of trouble with the stuff and it has a lot of features to it. 3 RCA outs, Low and high pass filters, Sub level, EQ, Etc. IMO, very good budget equipment....Of course, I guess I could have went high end and picked me up some Jensen stuff :lol: :flipoff:
 

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Nova said:
The wires above it are power wires for something, it was there when we got it.


This thread just gets better and better! You keep digging yourself deeper and deeper! :roll: :lol:
 
The single Fosgate 12 in my wife's PT...built this the day after we picked it up at the dealer.

pt1.jpg


pt2.jpg


Met the sealed space requirements and can still use the table/tray in the low position.

The mounting surface for the sub is elevated off the floor of the cruiser, the sub fires towards the floor.

Works great, sounds great.
 
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