Setup and Precaution Questions for 1/10 Yeti

[Mayday!]

So just picked up a Yeti, pretty excited. For what seems obvious if the rear end isn't sliding in a corner you either end up on two wheels or rolling over :lmao:


So I'm working about setup. I have a number of crawlers and this will be more of a play in soft sand, dirt, and gravel. Maybe some jumps and such here and there but I'm not a "basher" in the sense I don't hunt down extreme anything really, I already beat up the crawlers enough as is.


Right now, A bunch of us will have a (for fun) multi surface FPV "track" setup. Track = cones we setup up in a dirt lot.

Obviously things might break, comes as part of the hobby. Anyway what are common weaknesses taking into account my type of driving mentioned above.

Are there any setup changes or mods/upgrades that are glaring improvements? I'm fine with lowering it a little and playing with it stock for now but if it's simple or cheap I might jump on it.

One thing I noticed is it might benefit from better foams, maybe something a little stiffer.


Let me know your thoughts.

 

[mikemcE]

Foams, tires, shocks, steering parts, front shafts, rear driveshaft, servo, trailing arms, sleeve front arms, sway bar. That will get you started.

Hang up and Drive

 

[Mayday!]

lol, nice list. But not really what I was asking. :ror:

 

[33m]

Kit or RTR? New foams are absolutely needed. Also like he said, find a way to sleeve the bolts that attach the A arms to the front bulkhead.

 

[Antsiranean]

I got a kit that I upgraded a lot from start, but from what I gathered you should
1. Sleeve front hinge pins. Cheap and easy mod.
2. Sleeve front hinge pins.
3. Sleeve front hinge pins.
4. Servo arm. Cheap and easy.
5. Stiffer foams. CI double deuces.

 

[mikemcE]

lol, nice list. But not really what I was asking. :ror:

"Anyway what are common weaknesses taking into account my type of driving mentioned above.

Are there any setup changes or mods/upgrades that are glaring improvements? I'm fine with lowering it a little and playing with it stock for now but if it's simple or cheap I might jump on it.

One thing I noticed is it might benefit from better foams, maybe something a little stiffer. "

What I listed are what is needed to hit your goal, with your type of driving. All the things mentioned will fail quick and easy, IF you're really having fun. I didn't mention any of the other mods, Aluminum goodies, slipper, bearings,Motor, esc, bec........

The Yeti is a fun truck, just takes parts to keep it alive and well

 

[DavidH]

Without open diffs centre and rear the yeti is not going to be a star on the track, particularly with its trailing arm suspension causing it to typically nose-dive over jumps. It is not an SCT or an arrma stunt truck.

For fun I did set my yeti up for handling on high-traction surfaces, but then changed it back when I realized that this was not the reason I bought the yeti, and went back to a crawler/trails setup.

But I can offer these inexpensive suggestions:
- (RTR) HD diff gears F&R
- sleeve the a-arms $2
- closed cell foams in shorter tires. Since I don't care about scale, I like the proline 2.8" super swampers. They'll slide where taller softer tires will fold and flip. They are not expensive, and are available with different offsets f/r to match the yeti.

- faster stronger steering servo.
- dump the stock body and cage, to both lighten the truck and lower the CoG (and compensate for the FPV system) and install a body like Mike has (above) without a cage.
- install the axial blue-dot springs, then tune them with shock oil heavy enough to dampen out the bounciness (this will depend on your ready to run weight).

- install the axial or hot racing front sway bar set from the Exo Terra Buggy; this will try to keep the rear wheel from lifting in the corners, at the cost of understeer and crawling traction.

Hope that helps.

 

[Mayday!]

Hi guys thanks for the input!

I'm not expecting it to run in circles all the time. The FPV thing is for fun, I get what it's designed around.

Ok, I'll look into the sleeving thing, I think foams will be next, everybody seems to mention this.

I get things are going to break. Again, I'm not hard on my stuff. And I'm fine with it *eventually* breaking. But one thing I've noticed in this RC car hobby is a lot of people kinda treat the stock setup as absolute garage and if you don't replace it IMMEDIATELY you are doomed when in reality some things break quickly, most others don't. *shrug*

 

[tech712]

C hubs and knuckles go pretty quick, motor / trans plate is plastic. Even the kit form is plastic. A strong servo and horn are a necessity.
Ran mine for a few years , 4s 1850kv tekin pro 4 HD . Once I upgraded the c hubs and knuckles it was just an occasional front axle repair / replacement.


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[Mayday!]

What foam would you recommend?

I searched seems like people are using CI doubles or singles.

I suppose it might depend on my usage type?

Also, would it be a waste of time to swap foams and not tires?

What tires do people like?

 

[dreadMoros]

Hi,

would anyone be willing to describe sleeving procedure in more detail? I recently ripped front a arm and would like to give it a shot.

cheers
dm

 

[mikemcE]

Drill a 3/16 hole in the the arms in the stock pin positions , then insert a 3/16 stainless tube, cut flush with a Dremel. You will love this, works best using rpm arms, I use the Axial ones as I haven’t broken one in a year now


Hang up and Drive

 

[dreadMoros]

Any idea how it could be done to some aluminum a-arms?

 

[CHIEFWIG]

Hi,

would anyone be willing to describe sleeving procedure in more detail? I recently ripped front a arm and would like to give it a shot.

cheers
dm

This is what the sleeving looks like. The RPM arms we took out of the bag at the store and measured, seem to be no beefier where you sleeve. I would stick with the stock arms sleeved and save some money, mine seem the holding up well.

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[Shinchu]

advantage of the RPM arms is the better plastic they use. takes a hit better than axial stuff that snaps when you look at it wrong.
but yes, sleeving is good. i took out my pins to inspect... straight as an interior designer lol
i went through 3 pairs of knuckles in about 4 pack runs (on 3s with stock RTR electronics) before finally pulling the trigger on SSD set (requires adjusting toe with shorter traxxas rod ends... jato iirc?)

i also upgraded to the proline yeti shocks. nice but still tuning them, and ever since getting them my front dogbones like to shoot out at high speed and shred my C hubs. (most likely just need o rings in the cups, or cough up more dough for CVD's)

upgrading these really has the snowball/domino effect. upgrade one thing and in order to make it work you have to upgrade 3 things around it.
they remind me of the robot from WALL-E that ran around destroying stuff, even itself at one point!
*lol this guy...

 

[dreadMoros]

Hi,

i will stick to plastic then. And i was asking about alu parts since i have a set of hot racing a-arms laying around - can't remember how and when i got them though...

cheers!
dm

 

[DavidH]

What foam would you recommend?

I searched seems like people are using CI doubles or singles.

I suppose it might depend on my usage type?

Entirely. Generally, the factory foams are far too soft, the dual-stage is a compromise for traction, and the single stage is for stability at speed, at the cost of traction.

Also, would it be a waste of time to swap foams and not tires?

I would say, make the tires the priority, then get the foams to fit both the tires and how you plan to use them.

What tires do people like?

The Pit Bull Xtreme RC Rock Beast II provide scale appearance, and being taller than stock provide more ground clearance. The Proline hyrax probably provide more traction for crawling.

Some tires have some fitment issues on some wheels. Beadlocks can be a problem for the wheelspeeds you will get on a yeti - consider glue-on combos.

My favourite tire all-round tire is the Proline MX28 badlands tires; inexpensive, crawls great on rocks, work like paddles on sand and snow, but are bug-ugly and abandon any sense of scale. I installed closed cell foams in the front tires for more stability at speed and cornering.

 

[tech712]

I use OG pitbull rock beast xor with vp kmc rockstar alloy beadlocks. Once you get the hang of 'setting the bead' it's a cakewalk.
Running kit pinion/spur . 4s x 2000 kv tekin pro4hd. Axle twisting torque with more than enough wheelspeed to get the job done.
My .02

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[magic_yeti]

I love my Voodoo klr on SSD rockracers with ci dual stage 6.0 (medium Front, hard rear) + Tuning rings. No issues with Holding the tires, on any surface.



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[Antsiranean]

Proline Hyrax on SSD wheels, with CI double deuces, soft front and medium back. Easy to mount, great grip and good looks.