Hi guys. I wanted to add wheel weight, but didn't want to spend $30 dollars on mil stone weights. So..i made my own. I apologize, my phone sucks, I don't know how to do videos, and I only took a couple pictures..but here it goes. I used 1/2in Hex Jam Nuts. Tools used: Vice, flat metal file, round metal file. If you don't have these and can't borrow them, it's probably cheaper to go mil stone.
So first, take your flat file and grind a bit off of one side of the nut. Put it in the vice, and file her down. You can see how even you're doing it, by looking at the bevel on the nut corners. When you get down to a flat surface, past how the nut naturally bevels, that should do it. We do this, because we want the nut to seat below the edge of the rim, to prevent binding.
At this point, I would keep the nut horizontal, but move it to the side of the vice, then use the round file, to file out the threading. I move it to the side, to ensure longer stroke, because my vice isn't very big. Remove all of the threading on the inside.
Now, we can flip the nut in the vice horizontal. Now, we're taking the flat file, and we're going to file down the corners of the nut. It doesn't take much, and you're trying to just create a flat surface on the nut corner, about a milometer wide. We're doing this, so we can squeeze the nut into the rim. If you do too much on one, just continue on, and maybe leave one not file, then test fit. What we're doing, is filing the corners down so the nut fits into the rim, but we still want a tight fit, so it stays in place. DO NOT OVER FILE. File the corners flat, then test fit. If it doesn't go in, file them down a bit more, etc. Here's about what it looks like at this stage.
So that should give you an idea of about how far it should be recessed, and how removing the threading will let you seat the nut around the center of it just about perfectly, while having the slightly filed down corners hold it firmly in place.
Here's what it looks like from the other side..shiny chrome back ground, kinda cool, imo.
So now that we're done with test fitment, we have to take the nut back out, because it'll bind on the c-hub without more filing (yay...). I used the allen wrench that came with the kit to poke it out from the front..i think i almost bent it once tho, so be careful.
So at this point, we're just filing with the round file, trying to grind at an angle inward, so that the c-hub doesn't bind. Ideally, grind at the best angle you can, without touching the backside of the nut..because if you grind away at the back side, while working the front..the back side might not appear as cool through the rim. I ground all the way to the lip of the nut. This would be waaayyy easier with some kind of drill grinder, if you have something like that.
So once you've angle grinded all the way to the lip, it's time to remount the nuts into the wheels. One thing to note, and I hope someone tests this, it appears 1 set of tires is by default, heavier than the other. I swapped everything around a lot, but I'm assuming it's the front tires that weigh more..and I mounted my nuts into the heavier of the two.
Also note, that there is an air hole in the tire. I accidently pushed a bolt corner over it, which made it inflate/deflate slower. I almost left it, but I decided to move it. Obviously, line it up how you want it setup. Also, here's a picture of the final product before I mounted. I took the grind up to the lip of the nut, then filed downward into it at an angle..seemed to work out.
So..after filing, the end result was adding 0.35oz per wheel, which is just under 10g..so x2, that's 20g to your front. It's noticeably heavier. ~about twice as heavy as stock.
Alright, that's it. Thanks for reading. I only bought two nuts, I think they were like..70 cents each. I'll probably go buy a couple more for the back, I just wanted to see if I could get it to work first. There'll be only shaving of the nut required for the back tires, aka, much, much quicker, since we don't have to worry about c-hub rub.
Hope this helps someone else. Let me know if your tire sets weigh different, and which set was heavier.
So first, take your flat file and grind a bit off of one side of the nut. Put it in the vice, and file her down. You can see how even you're doing it, by looking at the bevel on the nut corners. When you get down to a flat surface, past how the nut naturally bevels, that should do it. We do this, because we want the nut to seat below the edge of the rim, to prevent binding.
At this point, I would keep the nut horizontal, but move it to the side of the vice, then use the round file, to file out the threading. I move it to the side, to ensure longer stroke, because my vice isn't very big. Remove all of the threading on the inside.
Now, we can flip the nut in the vice horizontal. Now, we're taking the flat file, and we're going to file down the corners of the nut. It doesn't take much, and you're trying to just create a flat surface on the nut corner, about a milometer wide. We're doing this, so we can squeeze the nut into the rim. If you do too much on one, just continue on, and maybe leave one not file, then test fit. What we're doing, is filing the corners down so the nut fits into the rim, but we still want a tight fit, so it stays in place. DO NOT OVER FILE. File the corners flat, then test fit. If it doesn't go in, file them down a bit more, etc. Here's about what it looks like at this stage.
So that should give you an idea of about how far it should be recessed, and how removing the threading will let you seat the nut around the center of it just about perfectly, while having the slightly filed down corners hold it firmly in place.
Here's what it looks like from the other side..shiny chrome back ground, kinda cool, imo.
So now that we're done with test fitment, we have to take the nut back out, because it'll bind on the c-hub without more filing (yay...). I used the allen wrench that came with the kit to poke it out from the front..i think i almost bent it once tho, so be careful.
So at this point, we're just filing with the round file, trying to grind at an angle inward, so that the c-hub doesn't bind. Ideally, grind at the best angle you can, without touching the backside of the nut..because if you grind away at the back side, while working the front..the back side might not appear as cool through the rim. I ground all the way to the lip of the nut. This would be waaayyy easier with some kind of drill grinder, if you have something like that.
So once you've angle grinded all the way to the lip, it's time to remount the nuts into the wheels. One thing to note, and I hope someone tests this, it appears 1 set of tires is by default, heavier than the other. I swapped everything around a lot, but I'm assuming it's the front tires that weigh more..and I mounted my nuts into the heavier of the two.
Also note, that there is an air hole in the tire. I accidently pushed a bolt corner over it, which made it inflate/deflate slower. I almost left it, but I decided to move it. Obviously, line it up how you want it setup. Also, here's a picture of the final product before I mounted. I took the grind up to the lip of the nut, then filed downward into it at an angle..seemed to work out.
So..after filing, the end result was adding 0.35oz per wheel, which is just under 10g..so x2, that's 20g to your front. It's noticeably heavier. ~about twice as heavy as stock.
Alright, that's it. Thanks for reading. I only bought two nuts, I think they were like..70 cents each. I'll probably go buy a couple more for the back, I just wanted to see if I could get it to work first. There'll be only shaving of the nut required for the back tires, aka, much, much quicker, since we don't have to worry about c-hub rub.
Hope this helps someone else. Let me know if your tire sets weigh different, and which set was heavier.
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