SCX10 Icon FJ45 build

[landcruiser king]

Ok. I just got my new axial scx10 trail honcho about a month ago. And I'm happy to say that rc crawling is everything i hoped it would be!! :mrgreen: i dont have the money to do the build right now, but I can describe what i want to do.

"body-wise", Im going to use a Tamiya FJ40 body, as well as the Tamiya Toyota Hilux Bed. Right now im thinking about cutting the fj body behind the doors and then slice the back end of the body and mount it to the front half of the FJ40. when i get done with it, im going to have a FJ40 "Cab", that im going to attach to the Hilux bed. which is going to need some trimming... so until i've purchased the 2 different bodies, i dont know how much trimming is going to have to be done the bed.

once the bodies are attached to eachother, im going to put on the "Roof Rack And Frame" (for the Hilux body, not the hard top version of the roof rack) But im hoping that i wont have to do too much trimming.

 

[Perkolator]

sounds like a plan. you're using the Tamiya lexan fj40 body and a hard-plastic hilux bed, correct? your other option is to swoop up (if you can find) an aoshima or joustra fj40 hard-body - but be prepared for the price...

there are plenty of fj45 builds in the general scale and 1.9 scaler sections. probably the nicest once i've seen was built by Dready:

 

[landcruiser king]

sounds like a plan. you're using the Tamiya lexan fj40 body and a hard-plastic hilux bed, correct? your other option is to swoop up (if you can find) an aoshima or joustra fj40 hard-body - but be prepared for the price...

there are plenty of fj45 builds in the general scale and 1.9 scaler sections. probably the nicest once i've seen was built by Dready:

Yeah... but here's the exact idea that I have engraved in my head:

Thats the ICON FJ43. I'm going to try to replicate it, but I'm going to have a hard-top. I'm not going to put canvas on body. If can get ICON to give me the body dimensions of their FJ43 scaled down to 1/10th in size, I will probably just have someone fabricate, and weld the whole entire body so that's it's all one piece...... And, indestructible! but im having problems of my own with my stock scx10. ugh. im gonna be buying:
12.3" aluminum link set
MIP CVD driveshaft set
axial's aluminum steering upgrade kit
aluminum c hub carriers
strc CNC aluminum steering knuckles
aluminum rear axle lockouts

 

[landcruiser king]

Ok so i definately need to get the aluminum link set for my scx10 because the lower rear links are allowing the rear axle to twist. And by twist I mean, that the rear axle "turns" in a way so that the rear axle is not parallel to the front axle. so thats got to get done really quick. I'm also going to get the aluminum steering upgrade because when I want to turn right, the plastic steering linkage just bends out understress.

 

[landcruiser king]

Ok I did some upgrades a while back.. I added the link set, the steering upgrade, I also just recently bought 1.9 gear head rc enk beadlcks wheels, proline flat irons, and new dinky rc lexan flat bed sides.

 

[SuperAwesome]

Those icon FJ's are godawful ugly, why o why do they have to destroy perfectly good FJ40's.

 

[landcruiser king]

So I'm really going "custom" on this body!Sorry guys I haven't cut or made any panels yet... But I going to put the rectangular hilux style headlights in the front instead of the round ones. I've basically decided to combine the fj 45 and fj60 bodies together. So I'm gonna keep the fender flares of the fj40 with a full body look of a fj60. It's gonna be sweet. I haven't made panels bc I've got so many different ideas going through my head.

 

[landcruiser king]

Alright! So last weekend I went into the woods with my chainsaw, and cut down a tree to retrieve the big burl from it. Hopefully it's not hollow inside. If its not hollow, I intend to use it to shape the body. This way my body will be a big, one-piece mold.

 

[Perkolator]

unless you're already really good at carving, i would advise you to not start with a solid block of wood for doing this. very hard to make it symmetrical that way - something you'll probably notice, lol. better way might be to use straight pieces for the bulk of the body - like sections of 1x material or even 2x for thicker areas to carve/add relief. if you need to build up areas perhaps use another piece of wood layered on, bondo, glazing putty, epoxy clay, styrene, etc. can build up the section.

i'm currently in the process of doing this exact same thing right now and only after having already glued together a solid block of wood, i decided it was much faster and made more sense to build from pieces if i wanted it to stay somewhat symmetrical. after now having put several hours in my wood form, i'd even be tempted next time to just go solely out of styrene for ultimate symmetry when making things by hand like this.

what are you going to use the wood positive for and what kind of final body are you wanting? positive for vacuum mold or positive for casting in silicone for resin?