scx10 body questions

[woody131]

Hey...

I have a bit of a newbie question when it comes to some bodies on scx10's. In order to fit a 12.3" Body on a deadbolt (12"), do I have extend the wheel base to fit or is it minor that won't be a issue? If I have to mess with the chassis, how much do I have to do to?

Thanks...

 

[milehigh970]

You can change your wheelbase by changing the upper and lower links

 

[460bronco]

I put my stock lower rear links, from my g6 kit, up top. Then drilled and tapped my old lower links from my wraith kit accept jato or revo ends( I forget). Stretched out to 12 and 1/4 approximately. You can do a lot with different rod ends.

 

[Meatwad]

A couple times in my laziness I've simply trimmed the wheel wells evenly to fit a chassis better to a body that was about .250" off. After finding a wheelbase I like and after going through the setup (width, height, tires and foams), it didn't seem worth it to mess with it over such a small difference.

As was mentioned, you can also run some longer rod ends front and rear that would put your wheelbase out to help. But of course this will change your setup and can affect crawling abilities. Alot of depends basically.

To answer your question, maybe. Bottom line is get a body you like and make it happen. Modding stuff and making your truck your own is the best part about crawling "thumbsup" Can't do that sorta stuff with a typical rc truck/car...

 

[rckjeep]

I recently changed from a G6 body with a 12" WB to a JK Unlimited body at 12.3". I noticed that if the holes in the body weren't already drilled I could move the body forward about a 1/4" and the wheel wells would have been fine. Since the holes were already drilled I pushed the rear axle back to match the 12.3" WB with some homemade chromoly links.

 

[johnnyluv]

Hey...

I have a bit of a newbie question when it comes to some bodies on scx10's. In order to fit a 12.3" Body on a deadbolt (12"), do I have extend the wheel base to fit or is it minor that won't be a issue? If I have to mess with the chassis, how much do I have to do to?

Thanks...

I did the same thing, with my Deadbolt-to-JK Rubicon conversion. The wheels would rub whenever I turned, especially when reversing. First, I swapped out the lower links with the Axial aluminum JK Rubicon links, which worked for awhile, but the upper Y link started to wear out, so I went ahead and switched to a front 4-link setup, using the JK's plastic upper links and 4-link truss, which corrected the pinion angle (if you only swap the lowers, your pinion angle will be a little steep). I also had to remove that front forward chassis brace, which was blocking my servo travel. Much better now!