SCREAMER's F-Bomber

[corefire]

2200 with 4s and 3500 for 3s

just always calculate volt/rpm
most motors dont want more than 50.000rpm....

more cells produce more runtime at equal mAh, for example a 2200mAh 3s runs up to 30% longer than a 2200mAh 2s...

 

[Chaser11]

I knew that was the general rule but for some reason I thought he was running both of these on 3s. I probably should just do a 3500 with the idea that I can put a 2 speed in it later.

 

[SCREAMER]

Sorry for the delayed response. I run 3s on everything I own. The 2200kv is in the crawler and it is fantastic. Excellent low speed control and plenty of speed with stock gearing. It actually surprised me with how quick it was at first and I ended up dropping 2 teeth on the pinion to gain even more low speed control and torque and its still plenty fast for a crawler build.

The 3500kv 540XL is in the go fast build, Qwiksilver, and it is so much more motor than I'll ever be able to use. Monster power and speed on tap. It is not the best for crawling but with a fair amount of expo and a sensitive throttle finger can be crawled without issue.

With either motor on 3S, I feel a two speed trans is completely unnecessary. I personally feel that a sensored brushless motor that is even close to the 3000kv ballpark is so versatile for this rig that adding a two speed may give you more low speed control but it will also give you a ton of wheelspeed that the chassis just cannot control. If your building a crawler, that's what it'll do well. If you build a basher or U4 racer, it will do that well too. If you build it to do both, you will have to make sacrifices to both ends of the spectrum.

 

[Chaser11]

Sorry for the delayed response. I run 3s on everything I own. The 2200kv is in the crawler and it is fantastic. Excellent low speed control and plenty of speed with stock gearing. It actually surprised me with how quick it was at first and I ended up dropping 2 teeth on the pinion to gain even more low speed control and torque and its still plenty fast for a crawler build.

The 3500kv 540XL is in the go fast build, Qwiksilver, and it is so much more motor than I'll ever be able to use. Monster power and speed on tap. It is not the best for crawling but with a fair amount of expo and a sensitive throttle finger can be crawled without issue.

With either motor on 3S, I feel a two speed trans is completely unnecessary. I personally feel that a sensored brushless motor that is even close to the 3000kv ballpark is so versatile for this rig that adding a two speed may give you more low speed control but it will also give you a ton of wheelspeed that the chassis just cannot control. If your building a crawler, that's what it'll do well. If you build a basher or U4 racer, it will do that well too. If you build it to do both, you will have to make sacrifices to both ends of the spectrum.

Thanks for the response! I did end up ordering the 2200kv last night. I am glad to hear that 3s will still work well and be great for crawling. I also test fit a 4s 2200 I had laying around in it last night and it too so I will be able to have even more power if I ever feel like it. The 2 speed was not something I really wanted to do but figured if I had to then it wouldn't be the end of the world. Looking forward to getting all my parts in this week and hopefully have it ready to roll again by Sunday. I might even have to start my own thread on the build and mods. Your thread has so much good info in it and I really appreciate all the tips and tricks I have learned through reading it. "thumbsup"

 

[SCREAMER]

If you run 4s on that 2200, please post video. I'd love to see that. Like I said, 3s and the 2200 was too quick with stock gearing so I had to drop to a 10t pinion. Now she's right in the sweet spot for top speed and amazing low speed control. It feels like I'm running a 2 speed......automatic. "thumbsup"

 

[GLHS592]

I went with the 2200kv and really like it. It is fast enough to bash and crawls like the stock motor on a 3s lipo. On 4s, it rips pretty good. Did you see my Youtube video?

 

[Chaser11]

If you run 4s on that 2200, please post video. I'd love to see that. Like I said, 3s and the 2200 was too quick with stock gearing so I had to drop to a 10t pinion. Now she's right in the sweet spot for top speed and amazing low speed control. It feels like I'm running a 2 speed......automatic. "thumbsup"

Cool. That's what I was hoping for on the 3s. I will be sure and get video as I take it. Thanks.

 

[Biomedchad]

If I want to shorten the wheel base with the twin hammers arms should I be ok with the ar60 axle? I'm also using oem length(axial metal) uppers. Not sure if that means wraith or rr10 but whatever they are the same length as the stockers.

 

[SCREAMER]

Ar60 is ideal because it's offset diff and perfectly inline with the trans output. You will absolutely need shorter rear upper links. I'm running Wraith length rear uppers with my twin hammers length arms but I'm also running a Currie axle so yours may need to be longer or shorter. Wraith length rear uppers will get you close. What you have right now is Yeti/RR10 length. They are longer.

 

[Drm31078]

Ar60 is ideal because it's offset diff and perfectly inline with the trans output. You will absolutely need shorter rear upper links. I'm running Wraith length rear uppers with my twin hammers length arms but I'm also running a Currie axle so yours may need to be longer or shorter. Wraith length rear uppers will get you close. What you have right now is Yeti/RR10 length. They are longer.

What did you end up doing for the rear drive shaft?

 

[SCREAMER]

I bought a Wraith length male MIP from SuperShafty for $17 and used that with the MIP female I already had. I'm not the biggest fan of MIP driveshafts but it's been OK so far.

 

[Biomedchad]

Actually I think they are wraith length. It's the axial stage 1 link kit. So it looks like it may work if that's the case. I'm still using the hd wild boar shafts with upgraded collars so that shaft length may be an issue. I'll have to see how it all fits when they show up I guess.

 

[SCREAMER]

WB HD driveshafts can be easily trimmed to fit. I do it so often I bought a cutting tool from Home Depot specifically for that purpose but you can do it with a box cutter or sharp knife. Try to only trim as much as you need so that you retain max engagement and cycle the suspension fully to ensure you're not bottoming out.

 

[Biomedchad]

Great. Thanks screamer. I'll post an update when it's all together....again.

 

[Nburns11]

WB HD driveshafts can be easily trimmed to fit. I do it so often I bought a cutting tool from Home Depot specifically for that purpose but you can do it with a box cutter or sharp knife. Try to only trim as much as you need so that you retain max engagement and cycle the suspension fully to ensure you're not bottoming out.

Yep did the same on my nightmare build for stock axials these things handle just about everything had them in my roc412 equipped scx10


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[Mega Fattie]

Lots of good info in this thread.

 

[SCREAMER]

Thank you. I've got a big update coming on Qwiksilver soon. She's getting IFS at the DeathMetalGarage as we speak.

 

[84yoda]

PLEASE get some good videos of your IFS bomber and maybe some testing against your yeti. I want to know if it will be worth it to build one depending on performance.

 

[bonewrench]

Thank you. I've got a big update coming on Qwiksilver soon. She's getting IFS at the DeathMetalGarage as we speak.

If I may ask, wouldn't that essentially make it a Yeti?

 

[SCREAMER]

If I may ask, wouldn't that essentially make it a Yeti?

No it won't. It'll be an RR10 with IFS. "thumbsup"