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What R the Must Dos?

10days from chy-na for some cheapy shock mounts.

Got one order at amain to pull the trigger on, then one item on Fleabay (VP Scale Wraith Knuckles unless there is a reason I shouldn't???)
Then the last upgrade I'll be getting for now is ESC/Motor.

Still contemplating keeping it Brushed, but I'm waining.


I feel like if you drive it enough, a good brushless system will pay for itself before long…

I’m contemplating if the 2850kv slate motor is going to be enough, or if I should go for the puller pro 3500kv…


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I feel like if you drive it enough, a good brushless system will pay for itself before long…

I’m contemplating if the 2850kv slate motor is going to be enough, or if I should go for the puller pro 3500kv…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aye. Got that same gut feeling.

Thinking a Tekin ROC412 3100hd with a Mamba X to swap from Race to Crawl mode.
 
Ouch Order is in.


SSD RC Yeti/RR10 Scale Steel Rear Driveshaft$29.99
SSD RC SCX10/RR10 Scale SteelFront Driveshaft $29.99
Vanquish Products AR60 Axle Servo Mount (Grey) $13.99
Vanquish Products Yeti Motor Cam (Black) $18.99
Vanquish Products Yeti Motor Plate (Black) $29.99
Vanquish Products VXD Universal AR60 Axle Set $137.99
Vanquish Products VXD AR60 Rear Axle Shaft Package $65.99
Vanquish Axial Wraith Scale Chubs Black $54.99
Vanquish Scale Knuckle Grey Axial Wraith @54.99


Next up will be the Electronics... Another Ouch most likely.
 
Ouch Order is in.


SSD RC Yeti/RR10 Scale Steel Rear Driveshaft$29.99
SSD RC SCX10/RR10 Scale SteelFront Driveshaft $29.99
Vanquish Products AR60 Axle Servo Mount (Grey) $13.99
Vanquish Products Yeti Motor Cam (Black) $18.99
Vanquish Products Yeti Motor Plate (Black) $29.99
Vanquish Products VXD Universal AR60 Axle Set $137.99
Vanquish Products VXD AR60 Rear Axle Shaft Package $65.99
Vanquish Axial Wraith Scale Chubs Black $54.99
Vanquish Scale Knuckle Grey Axial Wraith @54.99


Next up will be the Electronics... Another Ouch most likely.

It is amazing how quickly it all adds up...

Good, solid list of add-on's though "thumbsup"
 
Thank you…

About how fast are you running??

I installed 625zz bearings in my axles. They are 5x16x5. Did it to 3 axles now. And added stainless steel beef tubes, underdrive, vanquish lockers, and vanquish axle shafts (the thicker ones that come in a kit with bearings, locker, and wheel hexes are the way to go). So basically only have the stock plastic housings. Also have mip driveshafts and metal transmission gears. Basically no factory drivetrain parts if you want a beefy reliable setup. I run 4s hv drone racing batteries, one motor is the castle 1415 2400kv, and the other is a puller pro 3500kv. Total gear reduction is about 60:1 and 75:1. Fun reliable trucks once you dump the coin in them.

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I'd guess 12 to 15 mph. Not too sure. But seems like I can run as fast as the trucks can go.

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If I can get 15ish plus, I think that would be more than sufficient.

Just not sure which setup I want to go with yet.
Thinking a Shifts for steering, and another Servo AF Drag Link servo saver, though I do have a Treal I could use considering I already have the Incision drag link in the kit.

Though I'm not sure I want to direct power. I may go for the new Reefs 900 programmed for steering duty. Dont think I'll be doing too much crawling per se.
Plan is to run it as a True Bomber.....

Side question on Motor... Would the Holmes 540L Revolver be a good option? Hearing they can turn some good RPMs, or have I miss heard. Not too familiar with Holmes gear from personal use.. so need to ask.
Never really had an outrunner except in a small plane.

Rest of the order has been here for a few weeks, but I've been Really busy trying to get things around the yard in order once im home from work..

Lost all 3 of my Roosters 3 weeks ago to a neighbors Jack Russle. Shes a sweatheart and comes right up and over. but if no one is around, the lil bitch is a chicken killer. At least 7 I can attribute to her. She got a hen with my 3 rooster, got a bite on one of my ducks that same day too. Then about 5 weeks ago, she got 3 other chickens in the course of a 2 day in a row visit.

All I can say is she is lucky I'm not keen on Puppy Chowmein or the lil bitch would have been woked up already......

Pic of the goodies. IF I can find a few hours here and there to get it done.



 
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Oh and the fun begins! Looks like a similar list to what I had when I put mine together a few years back. The currie antirock is pretty sweet, but I ran into issues when I upgraded the rear shocks to the Powerstroke XL. Under compression the shocks rotate into the corner of the antirock arms. That may be in part by the HotRacing upper mounts tho. I swapped the top mount location but now it sits really high. Turns out I used too much locktight on those stupid grub screws too and snapped off the tip of the driver. I had to leave it be for a couple months after that happened lol. I was just out in the garage tonight trying to figure out the best way to fix it. Since I can’t find any replacement caps for the shocks, i’ll have to cut up the mount.
 
Oh and the fun begins! Looks like a similar list to what I had when I put mine together a few years back. The currie antirock is pretty sweet, but I ran into issues when I upgraded the rear shocks to the Powerstroke XL. Under compression the shocks rotate into the corner of the antirock arms. That may be in part by the HotRacing upper mounts tho. I swapped the top mount location but now it sits really high. Turns out I used too much locktight on those stupid grub screws too and snapped off the tip of the driver. I had to leave it be for a couple months after that happened lol. I was just out in the garage tonight trying to figure out the best way to fix it. Since I can’t find any replacement caps for the shocks, i’ll have to cut up the mount.

cant you put some heat (Soldering iron) on the grub screw and heat it up really well, melting the locktite?
 
TL;DR: Try applying heat to the screw/screw hole to burn away the locktite before cutting anything up. +1 for Timmahh' suggestion.

I've had to heat the grub screws on the pinion gears (the one on the motor) of both the GateKeeper and Bomber, both RTR. I used a butane torch but a soldering iron would be more accurate.

The GK didn't have much locktite, but what was there was holding on a little too well.

The Bomber on the other hand? The assembly tech just have dropped the grub screw in red locktite and figured "ah, what the heck" dropped the gear in there too, then dipped the motor shaft as well, for good measure. That gear was a nightmare trying to remove, and when it finally came off everything was a burnt locktite mess.

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I probably should had started there a long time ago… I snapped the tip off my old integy driver inside the grub screw. That’s when I set it aside for a while because I wasn’t sure how I wanted to tackle it. Last night I decided to give it another go. First trying to drill the screw out from the other side. It looked promising until the bit snapped. Ultimately I trashed the shock mount to release the shock from it. Atleast I’m not stuck buying a new set of Powerstroke XLs. I just reinstalled the stock upper mount and put everything back together.

If I decide to go with another set of aluminum uppers, I’ll def upgrade from the grub screw. The shock still runs into the antirock arm, so its back to the center hole (vanquish trailing arms).
 
Funny how Bomber builds end up breaking the tips off of tools - I broke the tip off a MIP driver in a grubscrew on my MIP driveshafts, and then broke the tip off a Wiha driver trying to attach an aluminum tranny housing to the skid. Those parts are still sitting there, YEARS later. I built up a different set of components into the one I drive now - and someday will need to test the miniscule screw extractor kit I bought and see if I can recover any of those parts and finish Bomber #2. It's got full SSD Diamond AR60s, MIP drivetrain, Hot Racing tranny housing full of steel gears from both Hot Racing and Robinson Racing. But it's just in pieces - gathering dust, some sorta assembled, and some totally jacked-up.

(sniff...)
 
I probably should had started there a long time ago… I snapped the tip off my old integy driver inside the grub screw. That’s when I set it aside for a while because I wasn’t sure how I wanted to tackle it. Last night I decided to give it another go. First trying to drill the screw out from the other side. It looked promising until the bit snapped. Ultimately I trashed the shock mount to release the shock from it. Atleast I’m not stuck buying a new set of Powerstroke XLs. I just reinstalled the stock upper mount and put everything back together.



If I decide to go with another set of aluminum uppers, I’ll def upgrade from the grub screw. The shock still runs into the antirock arm, so its back to the center hole (vanquish trailing arms).
To be fair, I would have done the same in the past. I learned about burning locktite on this forum.

I suppose it's better to ruin a cheapish set of shock mounts than buying a pair of expensive shocks just for the caps.

I've read, (somewhere, I don't remember where) the Traxxas GTR (slash, bandit, etc.) caps fit but I haven't tested it myself.

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Locktite removal is always PITA but its a FAR FAR Biger PITA trying to run with out any. lol

Chy-Na Stainless axle tubes didn't fit. Well they fit the housing gr8, but the stock axle shaft would not go through the center of them. not without drilling out the ss tubes, or shaving down the shoulder on the axle shafts. Tried them on my buddies and he didn't care to try the shoulder shave, or we didn't think about it at the time. I may suggest it as he does want to stay mostly stock.>

On the other hand, me, not so much. lol RPP Had Beef Tubes Brass and Stainless tubes in stock for the AR60s so I get a set of brass on the way for mine.
Also picked up an SSD HD Pumpkin cover for the front and a set of Fast Eddy Bearings for the whole rig to take advantage of RPPs 4th of July 15% sale.

Also bit the bullet on Amain and got some of the last remaining bit of goodies on the way for it.

Incision Spools with Underdrive for the rear.
Shifts 2.0 servo and KNK HD Brass Horn.
If i have a gearset issue, I'll order up the Servo AF Drag Link servo saver for it, but I'm fairly confident this will do great with the incision links I have for it.

Also splurged on some new tools
VP 4pc metric and 3piece sae driver set adn a set of 4 Reef Metric magnetic driver tips.
Needed a few new most common tools and figured might as well buy some quality.


the more I think about it the more I think I'll swap in my Hobbywing XR8SCT Pro/3600KV combo out of my 4x4 Slash Ultimate into the Bomber. I've only ran the slash once or twice and its just sets, so theres a nice possible option. If its too much, I'll look at antoher Tekin RX4 and maybe a 2700 Homles PP or a ROC412 3100kv combo.
Just about got all the upgrades for this gal. Most of this stuff should be here by this weekend along with a few things for my monster mash build.
Gonna need a few days of vid taking to get all of them installed.
 
Brass Beef Tubes showed up. also got an SSD HD Diff cover for the Front diff and a Hot Racing Skill Diff Cover for the Rear diff in today.

Should be ready to start the rebuild. Driveshafts will be going to the Monster Mash build.



 
Got all the upgrades installed except the SSD 2 speed, including my HW XR8SCT/3600kv combo.
To be honest, its fast with the 3600, but I was expecting more out of it for top speed really, but its no slouch, but my Ryft is faster. However low speed control isn't too bad actually. had worse. Need to get my programmer and make some changes.
but before I do that, I need a spur... Got about 5 minutes into the new setup and toasted the spur gear on my gravel driveway and a little running through the yard.
Mesh was set pretty well, but may have been a bit off, but I think the extra power and some traction hits while in the yard stressed it a bit first.

So whats the go to spur? Robinson? HR? other options?
 
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