• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Proper droop setup

Motorider

Rock Crawler
Joined
Apr 15, 2015
Messages
925
Location
Paola, ks
I'll start off by first thanking the forum for all of the information you all provide me. It's amazing. So I have been trying to improve my 10.2 even further by digging more into suspension setup. I read several articles about setting the correct droop. When I checked my rig out I found I had about 35% compression and 65% droop. In the front I was accidentally closer with 68% compression and 32% droop.

I am running 30wt front and 50wt rear.

From what I have read, a 60% compression and 40% droop is the ideal setup. What I found was I already had my stock spring collars all the way up in the front. To get more droop I installed a set of rear springs in the front. I also had to move the shock collars about a third of the way down in the rear.

ffc719f53c03f0a3848ae43730fec659.jpg


709b0f51609836160840c1f76f46398a.jpg


So my question for the pros is, what will be the negative effects of the lighter spring in the front. I think that even with a shorter spring, my problem would persist. I believe the problem is the spring rate. So the stock spring rate is 2.63lbs in the front. The stock rear is 1.13 lbs. Would I be better off going with the green 1.7 lb springs up front? Below are a picture of my springs. Yes I know my new shocks with xrings are leaking lightly.

I am currently running a very light 2200 3s soft pack battery.

Any suggestions? Ideas? Discussion?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
One other question, what is considered static? Truck just set on the ground, or after the shocks are compressed and allowed to return to a normal state? There is a large difference between the 2.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
its personal preference really.

my opinion, i like my truck to sit about 60% down into the springs so it atriculates and droops into holes rather than being stiff and pivoting on the opposite corners.


if your shock oil is so heavy that its stopping the springs from relaxing then its probably too thick.


i like a light oil, for the scale bounce factor on a light rig, heavier rigs need heavier oil for proper shock control.

hope that helps.
 
its personal preference really.

my opinion, i like my truck to sit about 60% down into the springs so it atriculates and droops into holes rather than being stiff and pivoting on the opposite corners.


if your shock oil is so heavy that its stopping the springs from relaxing then its probably too thick.


i like a light oil, for the scale bounce factor on a light rig, heavier rigs need heavier oil for proper shock control.

hope that helps.
The rig weighs in at 6lbs 14.7 oz. Most weight is down low. Stock body and the 2200 battery. The stock springs up front would not allow me to get the front end low enough, even with the retainers threaded all the way up. The rear springs are way to soft and I lost performance on sidehilling. In fact when ever i was just driving it would be leaning all the way to right side.

So far stock springs up front threaded all the way up with 30 wt oil has worked best. I'm looking at getting some of the green springs that are just a bit lighter spring. It will let me get the ride height lower without sacrificing too much spring.

I'll figure it out eventually.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
My scx was on the heavy side, metal everywhere, 2x 5000mah 2s etc.
Leaf rear sagged about 50/50 with tamiya shocks greased, and wraith coils with dingo front shocks filled with 30w worked for me.
 
Back
Top