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Proline Toyota FJ40 Wide GSpeed Build

Goro Majima

Rock Crawler
Subscribed Member
Joined
May 4, 2021
Messages
940
Location
NorCal
Figured I'd share my first build from scratch, a no class rig (don't know what to classify it as since it's odd). This will be focused on low center of gravity as much as possible without compromising the shape of the FJ40. Don't mind the soda can to support the rear to see how the body would look on it.
Unfortunately the body will be trimmed down below to account for the sliders and of course the fenders for turning. Unsure to trim half the fenders or fully removed + radiused front and rear.

As for mounting the body, I don't want to make holes but I also don't want to add weight up top on the roof so I may figure a body post/clip system in the back.

About performance. The rear of the body does stick out more than I'd like, even when I trim it along with the sides of the sliders for functionality. I was thinking to get longer rear links made and lengthen the driveshaft to push the axle back to make up for the rear overhang? [emoji848]

Since this is focused towards being wide, I'm aiming this to also be light in weight and slammed for having a FJ40 body. There will be no interior and the body will have an OEM style paint job, going with whatever color scheme these came in stock back in the day.

Here are the parts I've used so far:
- GSpeed CF TGH V3 chassis, sliders, Vader SCX10ii skid, G-MP panhard mount, G-LD servo mount, body post kit & square spacers
- Intheworks RC titanium links
- Dlux Fab titanium drag link and tie rod
- AR60 plastic axles (locked diffs)
- Vanquish panhard mount (custom temporary panhard link)
- Vanquish VXD front axles
- Wild Boar driveshafts
- Dlux Fab Ham Berger transmission (shaved output shafts to accommodate for Wild Boars)
- Dravtech shocks (F - Ultra Soft/R - Soft)
- Boom Racing Probuild CR6 Extra Wide wheels (CF faces with gunmetal lips/barrels, delrin beadlock rings, Vanquish .850/22mm hubs)
- Proline Interco TSL SX Super Swampers (XL) Predator compound and stock foams
- Reefs 299LP for reference on the panhard bar but will probably run a 777

Onto the remaining bits needed. I've got a Spektrum 850 for it's battery. Motor and ESC initially lined up for it was a Hobbywing 1080 and a brushed HH Crawlmaster Pro 550, but unfortunately the combo of this trans plus AR60s makes the driveshaft clearly in the way of the motor. So I was thinking to get a forward motor mount, which would also help with countering the extra rear weight of this body? I think that would help it perform. Brass parts will be added accordingly.

Any suggestions or critiques are welcomed. I will update as parts continue to come.
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Maybe you can resizer the pictures, they're HUGE. Max size allowed is 1200 x 1200
 
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Finally took some quick pics of the painted Tamiya Cobalt Green body and decals. Did some pretty extensive body chopping but I tried to keep the fenders shaped and proportioned like original. Dissatisfied with the rear, how I couldn't follow any factory lines (chopped through the reflectors) but that's where the true line would be when comparing to the sides. Also the window masking could've been done cleaner (too many bleeds) but I messed up my technique on using liquid mask and should've stuck with my masking tape like I did the white top.

I'll take some real pics when I get the chance and also the chassis. Currently it has a SW4 ESC with a Team Brood 1100kv outrunner and a NSD servo. Went with 2 850mah 3S batteries, to mount on each slider and also to separate power usage between motor and servo. Receiver is mounted on the skid while the ESC is perched up front just behind the servo mount and sits low like a front motor mount would do.

The body is mounted with aerocatch style hood clips. The rear is mounted down low in the back for that LCG effect, but also it gives the white top a nice smooth and slick look. Absolutely hate the look of body clips.

After driving this rig, although I love the low speed torque of the outrunner, that high pitch whine really got to me when the motor had to really work. Upon initial testing, I thought I was good with the sound but I didn't truly test it under some real circumstances. With that said, the SW4 will be powering my HH brushed 12t. To do that I need a 2nd rear truss to flip the front axle so the driveshaft won't be in the way of the 550 motor, which is on the way. Everything else is set, I just hope the upper suspension link won't interfere with the motor.
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Finally took some quick pics of the painted Tamiya Cobalt Green body and decals. Did some pretty extensive body chopping but I tried to keep the fenders shaped and proportioned like original. Dissatisfied with the rear, how I couldn't follow any factory lines (chopped through the reflectors) but that's where the true line would be when comparing to the sides. Also the window masking could've been done cleaner (too many bleeds) but I messed up my technique on using liquid mask and should've stuck with my masking tape like I did the white top.

I'll take some real pics when I get the chance and also the chassis. Currently it has a SW4 ESC with a Team Brood 1100kv outrunner and a NSD servo. Went with 2 850mah 3S batteries, to mount on each slider and also to separate power usage between motor and servo. Receiver is mounted on the skid while the ESC is perched up front just behind the servo mount and sits low like a front motor mount would do.

The body is mounted with aerocatch style hood clips. The rear is mounted down low in the back for that LCG effect, but also it gives the white top a nice smooth and slick look. Absolutely hate the look of body clips.

After driving this rig, although I love the low speed torque of the outrunner, that high pitch whine really got to me when the motor had to really work. Upon initial testing, I thought I was good with the sound but I didn't truly test it under some real circumstances. With that said, the SW4 will be powering my HH brushed 12t. To do that I need a 2nd rear truss to flip the front axle so the driveshaft won't be in the way of the 550 motor, which is on the way. Everything else is set, I just hope the upper suspension link won't interfere with the motor.
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That is really cool!!!!!

Reminds me of a Rat Rod or the Munster Mobile. [emoji106]

Good job!
 
Update time. Over the months, I've added a few parts as well as some minor tweaks and I will try to follow up from my previous post. Here's some pictures pertaining to the chassis but also some desk flexing since I not only cleaned the clutter off of my desk but also just got my Enduro RC Designs articulation ramp. Pictures will show some close clearances, chassis/drivetrain setup, and body mounting setup.

Parts added/changed:
- IERC GSpeed sliders (spaced out to mesh with body). I love this addition because it holds the body up in the center, while the body mounts hold pressure downward in front & back.
- SSD Axial SCX10.2 rear bumper extension + Vanquish VS410 plastic rear bumper. Ordered this rear bumper completely on a whim as far as fitment would mesh with this body. Besides the bumper being slightly warped on the right side, I think it looks awesome.
- RC4X4 Shop/Loops Model rubber FJ40 mirrors. Shout-out to the TRX4 FJ40 build on here for linking these in their thread.
- SSD front diff cover/TFL rear diff cover
- Incision 43/13 rear gears (underdrive)
- Ottsix Halo Airdown foams F/R. I feel these cater to the wide Boom Racing wheels the most.
- Swapped to chrome lips & barrels along with gold hardware
- Swapped to stock sized front axle shafts (wheel fitment testing friendly)
- The front Amazon T4 branded skid has been removed since these pictures. Although it adds some sort of protection, the steering link comes into contact with it.
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Killer build with a sweet stance!

This one will look incredible out on the rocks..."thumbsup"
 
Yep, this thing is way-cool. Great vision man!


Thanks for sharing the build"thumbsup"
 
Killer build with a sweet stance!

This one will look incredible out on the rocks..."thumbsup"
Yep, this thing is way-cool. Great vision man!


Thanks for sharing the build"thumbsup"
Thanks y'all. That's one thing I haven't done with this is actually take it out to some rocks but the day will come sooner or later and I'll be sure to update.
 
Running video! https://youtu.be/yfm0j4BiQpk

I've given this thing a name; FlexJ40. Where should I place the license plate? I like it in the stock location area but also kind want to have it dangling off the bumper with either some wire or 2mm zip ties.

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Underdriven rear wasn't enough for me so I've also overdriven the front.

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I removed the front spacers on the sliders to bow that area of the body inward in attempts to prevent rubbing at full extension/lock but it wasn't a solution. So I plan to cut the arch further back like so and will modify the sliders so it all lines up. I'll move the GSpeed sticker up higher and instead of reapplying the Land Cruiser decal further back, it'll receive the RC4WD emblems.

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Very low and very nice build.
I've never seen those body mounts before.
Crawls really nice too.
 
Attended the 2022 Amain City Crawl and brought 3 rigs with me. I only did the Show & Shine with this build, and waited til the time trials were over so I could drive the course slow. Fastest time some one did the course in was around a minute flat I think. With that said, here's footage of their course in tortoise pace (uploaded recently, 4k still rendering).

https://youtu.be/Kc1rimRHQNc

I was able to get a few other runs in with this and the other obstacles. Since this is it's first use at an actual event, I noticed how much play there is in the plastic knuckles (with how long of a screw I used for the drag/toe link mount. You can see in the footage that I can't turn as sharp to the left. I threw a slightly shorter link in with the same rod ends, and also rotated the horn one click to the left (one more click to the left and horn would be aligned on center). So next on the to-do list is a set of metal knuckles. I'm not looking forward to grinding on them since I shaved chunks away from the plastic ones for steering, but if it means getting more precise steering then I'm all for it.

Also, a few pictures to continue off from the build, showing the further cut front arches as well as the rock sliders also being cut. The tires still rub the area but at least they don't catch like before and totally satisfied with that. Also had to add a few stickers to represent the brand of the wheels.

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I have some random pics.

At Amain.

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Upgraded desk space.

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Deep steelies on 4.75 Patagonias test fit (needs soft/antifoams).

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Oroville Fish Hatchery. Installed Dlux style brass knuckles.

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Rock City meet at Mt Diablo. Hard to tell but I think before this was when I flip flopped lips so the deeper set was on the outside. A little more width won't hurt, right?

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Next pic is courtesy of CoG.RC, who covered photography footage of the meet which was awesome.

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I don't have any footage of the specific line I brought this out for, but I will share that Gabe with Gspeed was spotting me which was cool. About halfway through the line, it stalled out! While others were watching this wide rig trying to tackle the line and some were even recording. All of a sudden you hear "AWWW MANNNNN" as it stalled... Such a let down haha.
 
Version2 soon. What's staying? Body, rails, body mounts, Rx. Deadline is New Year's Day for the Diablo Crawlers 11th annual New Year's Crawl held at the GSpeed shop in San Ramon. Here's a few pics of the teardown to start.

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As for what's to come, 2spd transmission and Supershafty Bombproof AR60s stretched out to a ~14" wheelbase. More details on other stuff soon...

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Being so lowered, this thing reminds me of an old mail Jeep. Very cool. Those carbon fiber wheels are sweet.
 
This build was cool before. Can't wait to see the new and improved FJ40!8)
 
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