RivBlueNoma
Rock Crawler
You should bring that to our winter crawl spot. We are getting together each Weds from 4-9, its indoors with heat and lots of rocks. .
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Project Ol' Drippy (lots of pics)
- Thread starter Harley
- Start date
West Virginia Krawler
You know your just jealous that your crawler dosn't have a PS2, headrest monitors, and subwoofers. pssssssh
hahaha
rivblue
I would defiently like too, I tried to make it to the blue river comp but took the wrong highway and ended up 30 miles in the wrong direction and missed the comp.
Just to add something, I absoulutely love this k2-3L chassis.
I think my next one will be the k2-4 though. I really want to do a leafer!
You know your just jealous that your crawler dosn't have a PS2, headrest monitors, and subwoofers. pssssssh
hahaha
rivblue
I would defiently like too, I tried to make it to the blue river comp but took the wrong highway and ended up 30 miles in the wrong direction and missed the comp.
Just to add something, I absoulutely love this k2-3L chassis.
I think my next one will be the k2-4 though. I really want to do a leafer!
Ordered two proline roof racks the other day for a little project for this thing. Then I need to get some scale tools and what not for it.
Original:
Model:
Plans:
I will get it done once I go back to KC, I'm in Omaha for the weekend.
Josh
Original:
Model:
Plans:
I will get it done once I go back to KC, I'm in Omaha for the weekend.
Josh
Rat1
Quarry Creeper
I watched you vid of your steering problem. Yes it is a problem. When you try yo steer it the axle assembly moves rather then steering the wheels.
I was looking through your pics to see your 4 link design and it is hard to tell but it looks like you have your 4 link rods running parallel without opposite triangulation.
Your upper links should be close together at the axle and your lower links should be closer together at the chassis. With the setup you have you would need to run a panhard bar to hold the axle into place. This is a bar that goes from a frame rail to the axle to keep it from shifting from side to side. Most panhard bars on 1:1 units run the bar from a bracket that is attached below the right side frame rail to a bracket that is attached to the top of the axle housing on the left side. But be aware that as travel increases then the axle will shift from side to side when the suspension goes to full drop out.
One thing that I have noticed about RC is that most rc vehicles are nto close to scale when it comes to suspension travel when compaired to the suspension travel of a 1:1 rig unless you are talkign extreme 1:1 rigs.
A 1:1 rig would have to have a few feet of travel for it to be of proper large scale to most of the rc models I have seen.
I was looking through your pics to see your 4 link design and it is hard to tell but it looks like you have your 4 link rods running parallel without opposite triangulation.
Your upper links should be close together at the axle and your lower links should be closer together at the chassis. With the setup you have you would need to run a panhard bar to hold the axle into place. This is a bar that goes from a frame rail to the axle to keep it from shifting from side to side. Most panhard bars on 1:1 units run the bar from a bracket that is attached below the right side frame rail to a bracket that is attached to the top of the axle housing on the left side. But be aware that as travel increases then the axle will shift from side to side when the suspension goes to full drop out.
One thing that I have noticed about RC is that most rc vehicles are nto close to scale when it comes to suspension travel when compaired to the suspension travel of a 1:1 rig unless you are talkign extreme 1:1 rigs.
A 1:1 rig would have to have a few feet of travel for it to be of proper large scale to most of the rc models I have seen.
I got the steering fixed for now. Not perfect but works great. I just need to get this thing out on some rocks. FREAKING SNOW!!!
well got a set of stock higlift wheels and tires today. mounted them on the rig and............................damn they look BAD!!!!!!!! Not in a good way either. and it shows that the wheel base is off for the body too. I think I am gonna keep 1 and run it as a spare. So I suppose I will sell or trade the rest of them off.
Compared to the Geo's on the narrowed pede wheels
Compared to the Geo's on the narrowed pede wheels
Highlift wheels and tires are up for sale in the for sale section obviously. They just look like crap on there, if I had a clod body I think they would look fine but just not on here. Oh well worth a try. I think I am gonna mount one out back though as a spare.
So if anyone else wants a highlift tire to run as a spare, grab one now!!!
Josh
So if anyone else wants a highlift tire to run as a spare, grab one now!!!
Josh
ScGRaceR
Rock Crawler
i suggest some 2.2s like rc4wds beadlocks 
I am going back to the Geo's now. I traded the Highlift wheels off to Sleek6mt. As for RC4WD beadlocks, they are just so expensive I don't think I can swing them. I just narrowed my Pede fronts and I think they look a million times better then stock width. I have another set of Geos coming now and I am thinking about narrowing them down, I am gonna throw one on the back as a spare though.
If anyone wants a geo to run as a spare just send me a PM I plan on having three available.
josh
If anyone wants a geo to run as a spare just send me a PM I plan on having three available.
josh
I bought two of the $5 proline roof racks and simply cut the center out of one and mounted it to the top of the other. 20 mins later and DONE.
I also posted this in the scale accessories forum.
And one with the spare before the back gets cut out for the roll cage.
Josh
I also posted this in the scale accessories forum.
And one with the spare before the back gets cut out for the roll cage.
Josh
Nitro
Quarry Creeper
.
Looking pretty good!!
Looking pretty good!!
farakai
Quarry Creeper
looks good great work:mrgreen:
How do you like the sliders?powerlinek9
Newbie
why didn't you eat your crackers boy?
The sliders help quite a bit, keeps it from freaking rolling over so much. Still have to mount the passenger side one. I picked up the aluminum for that yesterday when I picked the racks up.
I also picked up some Brass tubing to start my roll bar for the back. The rear is getting chopped off here soon. I have not decided whether or not to leave the "Bikini top" part of the roof yet or not. I am going to do a stock wrangler style roll bar that goes all the way back and then down at almost 90*. I just don't think I am going to tie in between the Hoop and the Windshield.
Anyways, back to work.
Josh
P.S.
What friggin crackers?
All I see is my big bowl of M&M's :-D
I also picked up some Brass tubing to start my roll bar for the back. The rear is getting chopped off here soon. I have not decided whether or not to leave the "Bikini top" part of the roof yet or not. I am going to do a stock wrangler style roll bar that goes all the way back and then down at almost 90*. I just don't think I am going to tie in between the Hoop and the Windshield.
Anyways, back to work.
Josh
P.S.
What friggin crackers?
All I see is my big bowl of M&M's :-D
Well since this is pretty much just me talking to myself in this thread I might as well post some more stuff up.
The REAR HACK started, and the roll cage will start to follow soon. I am using 1/8th in tube brass. The Roll cage will be mostly cosmetic. I still plan on it being strong enough to take a roll over. Its a scaler so nothing too hardcore.
It will be stock style.
Lets here a comment or two fuggers!!!!
The REAR HACK started, and the roll cage will start to follow soon. I am using 1/8th in tube brass. The Roll cage will be mostly cosmetic. I still plan on it being strong enough to take a roll over. Its a scaler so nothing too hardcore.
It will be stock style.
Lets here a comment or two fuggers!!!!
Creep said:
Yes, yes I did, tell your Mom goodnight. haha j/k!!
Whores, All of em'!!!
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