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Project Ol' Drippy (lots of pics)

Harley

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Jul 27, 2004
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Sending illegals home one Hayabusa at a time.
Project Ol' Drippy *New Pics - New rock sliders, savage bumper, new narrowed wheels*

I have been around here for ever it feels like but this is only my third fourth project. This is my second TLT project, first scale project.
The name comes from Aqua Teen Hunger Force (not sure if any of you are fimilar with it, thats him on the left)
106c6fk.jpg



This is going to be a pretty standard scaler.

Specs:
Chassis: K2-3L
Axles: Tlt-1
Tranny: Pede
Motor: 55T Integy Lathe
ESC: AI Outrunner
Suspension: 4-Link ad Coil springs with seperate shocks (may change)
Wheels and Tires: Stock Pede with HPI Geolanders
Body: Rubicon

I will proabably grab a set of the 60mm shocks from r2j for the rear atleast, but may do them all the way around. I like the way the coils look but I don't think they are functioning as well as I would like. I need to fab up a servo mount for the 645mg on the chassis. Will work on that when I get a chance.

Scale touchs:
Savage bumpers
Wrking head lights and off road lights
Working tail lights
Would like to build some sort of interior, though it may be racing seats on an aluminum floor
I also plan on doing an actual roll cage with a roof rack.

I want to thank you all on here for making alot of these parts available, and also putting in alot of time so I can use all of your ideas.

It will improve but here are some of the begining build up shots. You can tell the coils are too stiff, I will try and change them first and if that isn't good enough I will just get the 60m shocks.

UPDATED******************************************************

Well the rig is up and running.

Ditched the captured springs and went with some team associated touring car shocks with some green 12.5 pound springs. It has plenty of flex for a scaler.

Specs:
WB = 12 3/8"
CGC = 2 1/4"
COG = 3 1/3"
Artic = 3"
Track = 9 1/2"
Length = 18 1/2"
Weight = 5.4 Lbs

MOCK UP:
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/750/img0456qf2.jpg
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8355/img0457aa0.jpg
http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/9258/img0458sx8.jpg
http://img431.imageshack.us/img431/5553/img0459bd9.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3310/img0460mp4.jpg
http://img431.imageshack.us/img431/6973/img0463ub3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/1405/img0464ol0.jpg

Let me know what you think.
Sorry for the ENORMOUS pictures
 
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Nice to see there are some ATHF fans on here.

for those who have never seen it, it is a pretty fun 15 min cartoon on adult swim on the cartoon network. You can also watch it on www.adultswim.com just go to "the fix" and it is the first one.

Ol' Drippy was the result of Master Shake not cleaning the kitchen for months and a fungus type thing, 'Ol Drippy, grew out of all the crap. So I felt that this was an approiate name for my new rig. Mostly because of my how my chit comes together not because of the parts, (K2's chassis is the awesome).

Anyways on the pictures, I just forgot to click the resize box when I uploaded them and since I don't have an account with imageshack I would have to completely re-upload them.

very Sorry again.
 
More Pics:

Mandatory Flex Shot
p1010074dq3.jpg

p1010100vv7.jpg

p1010104vr6.jpg


Now I need to go work on some of the scale pieces. I have a new Idea for a steel bumper I am gonna try. We are in the middle of packing now so most of my work happens between 11:00 PM and 4:00 AM. Well see what I can get done.

Thanks for looking and tell me what you think

TOTAL COST RUNDOWN

Chassis: $65
Tires and Rims: $40
Tranny: Traded
Body: $35 (with Paint)
Axles: $70
Battery: $20
Radio: $50
Servo: $40
Drive Shafts: $12
Shocks: $50
Charger: ~$50 (vision peak, can't remember exactly what it cost though)

TOTAL: $432 ready to run
 
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That sound awesome, I am actually going to try and move monday and tuesday.

My only problem is that...............................this is by no means a comp rig. So I am somewhat worried I would just get destroyed. Still sounds like fun though.

Just threw it into googlemaps and it looks like I would just be on the other side of KC. We are moving into the northlands area off of barry road.



NOW SOME TECH

I made a new steering rod but I am having troubles trying to steer left. It pushes the wheels to the right just fine, but when I try and steer them to the left they barely move that way. I will post a video here in a second and see if one of you guys can give me some help.

Thanks
josh
 
I agree

I agree with sniper on this one, maybe not enough trianulation or you might need to run a panhard bar.

Also, was the hardware for the links snug? They sometimes come loose on my clod and when they come loose the truck will pivot like yours did due to the bolts moving back and forth.
 
from your vid i would say that the steering works fine if you keep the wheels off the ground yeah??

You can see the chassis moving in relation to the axle, which means your upper and lower links arent triangulated enough.
simply put... lowers go in.. uppers go out.
as long as they form a 'V' in opposing directions, your problem should dissapear.
If you fix this, you will also find that its easier to control "thumbsup"

EDIT:
after loading all the pics to have a look, i can see your problem.
As i said above, you need more triangulation.
Simply move the upper links in to the center of the axle, to form a nice V shape.
You can use a piece of aluminium plate... or the stock TLT servo mounting plate... and screw a center mount into that.
 
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Harley0706 said:
WHY THE HELL WILL THIS NOT TURN LEFT (right on your screen)
The servo arm moves the same amount that way but the suspension articulates when I try and turn.

Thanks
Josh Thiede

Well the links look fine and you don't need any more triangulation if it's setup the same as my build doc shows. I would look at a few things;

1 - Without the servo conected to the steering knuckle and with the servo horn still mounted does it turn just fine without any binding?

2 - Are your steering knuckles installed properly? There is a left and right and I commonly install them wrong all the time.

3 - Does the linkage without the servo move freely with little to no binding?

4 - Does you suspension articulate smoothly with only spring resistance and not binding resistance?

5 - Any odd end point adjustments on the radio? Try zero'ing out the radio for that model if possible. Even though the steering servo moves the same in both directions, you may need more throw to one side depending on the servo, radio and setup.

I hope some of this helps. I've built up several of those chassis's and have had hundreds sold and built up but this is the first problem that I've seen with the steering like this.

Your setup looks great!

8)
 
You are more than welcome to come out to the comp, even if you just want to spectate. Ive heard of several people successfully using the k2's in comps. Asking around for K2 set up advice, several people suggested using it with the original set up (like yours) and that it should be pretty competetive just the way it is. My K2 is the only rig Ill have there, if nothing else it will be fun. Who cares if I finish dead last. Id rather finish last and crawl with other people rather than crawl alone. "thumbsup"

Good luck on the move. Word to the wise, dont trust the locals down here to know how to act when theres snow or ice on the roads. Defensive driving is almost a must in imperfect weather. Especially if the car has Kansas tags with a JO county sticker.:lol:

Most of the locals hang out at the Central MO forum. Feel free to drop in and check it out. http://www.4wdthunder.net/Forum/index.php#2

Sorry I dont have any idea on steering other than what Kaetwo mentioned. I think he covered most of the bases.
 
Well a little update.

Mounted my front savage bumper up, I lowered the front a little more after the pictures were taken to level out the body. I still need to do the rear bumer too.

SavageBumber.jpg

P1010179.jpg


Last night I went and bought a set of the chome rustler front wheels. narrowed them down to an 1" in the front and 1.2" in the rear. i think the Geos look a thousand times better now. And I think the wheels look a lot better also, don't have such a dish to them.

BEFORE:
P1010170.jpg


AFTER:(I just realized how bad I am at taking the right pictures)
P1010193.jpg



I also bought a $0.79 piece of thin brass to make my self some rock sliders. Took about and hour or two from start to finish, except I still have to mount the passenger side (I ran out of aluminum). I tried to dent the crap outta them for a trail beat look. Might be hard to tell by the pictures.

Step 1: Cut strip in half
P1010194.jpg


Step 2-6: Bend some Chit
P1010197.jpg

P1010198.jpg


Step 7: HACK a bracket together
P1010200.jpg


Step 7: Rough with dremel sanding wheel, Dent then paint in pizza box in kitchen (wife was gone all week can you tell?)
P1010202.jpg


Step 8: Bake at 275 for 3-15 mins (depending on when you remember you put them in!!!)

Step 9: Mount with Double stick 3M, I picked it up by it last night but if it fails I will bolt them on.

FINISHED:
P1010204.jpg

P1010205.jpg

P1010206.jpg



Rinse and Repeat:
P1010209.jpg
 
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Oh my god I almost forgot to show you all my new sweet azz interior. There has never been an interior this nice put into a crawler you won't be able to believe your eyes!!!













WOW IT IS SO SCALE!!!!!!
P1010172.jpg


You know you want it.
P1010182.jpg


















If you think I am serious................kill yourself
 
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