nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
Thanks Chris it was good seeing ya at the track.
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Pham's nissandriver24 Fully Loaded - Vanquish Products Axial Yeti Rock Racer
Thanks Chris it was good seeing ya at the track.
difflock120
Newbie
When will those vp goodies you have on your yeti be available?
nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
All of the items I have on my rig are available on VP website but just not currently in stock. They should be back in stock very soon.
SteveC6R
RCC Addict
Rudukai13
Quarry Creeper
ND24, I have the VP clamping hexes as well (not the knuckles yet, although those are on my list) - I was unaware though that the stock Yeti drive pins wouldn't work with the VP hexes. What drive pins are you using now to get them to fit properly?
binaryterror
I wanna be Dave
You can cut/file the ones that came in the kit down, I think its 1mm too long.
I had some spares from older Axials that fit.
SteveC6R
RCC Addict
The stock pins work just fine with VP clamping hexes, I've had mine on and off several times.
nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
You could get stock old Axial pins that come stock on any Axial SCX-10, AX10. Even the stock Traxxas slash, rustler, bandit, stampede will work also.
Correct, that's exactly what I used some stock Axials I had laying around.
You are right but I don't recommend using the stock pins because it puts a lot of stress on the pin during initial install, which could cause the pin to break during use (I have had this happen before). The VP hex was designed around the stock Axial Hex Pin not the longer pins used on the Yeti.
Wow - great Yeti, but that must stand at ca $1500 retail by now
Thanks, it has a bit of money but for me it well spent on quality parts that won't go bad on me during an event or race.
SteveC6R answered this the Alloy Diff is a VP part.
Rudukai13
Quarry Creeper
Thanks for the responses everyone! I'll use the stock drive pins for now as the hexes seem to be seating alright over them, once I get more into really throwing the truck around I'll look at getting some of the shorter SCX/AX10 drive pins for it.
nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
What part exactly are you trying to find? The aluminum diff cover? Aluminum Housing? The locker? I really don't know what you mean by the alloy diff.
I posted the parts on post #18 here it is copied.
I went with a scx10 MIP set and MIP Spline CVD™ Bone, Traxxas Summit (1) #09169.
The polished alloy diff centre housing that contains the spiders gears and crown wheel, that the axle shafts connect to, in the rear diff housing of the car.
TT17
Rock Stacker
I think you are talking about the locker right?
Axial Wraith Locker for SCX10 and AX10 Type Axles - Vanquish Products
Axial Wraith Locker for SCX10 and AX10 Type Axles - Vanquish Products
nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
TT17 just answered your question. There are no spider gears in the housing. It is just a spool also known as a locker.
nissan_driver24
Rock Crawler
Little Update on the Yeti!
Before I raced at the last U4 raced I upgraded the 3mm steering link turnbuckle from the servo horn to a Titanium Lunsford Turnbuckle using Traxxas 3mm GTR rod ends after seeing my buddy pull his out just turning the front tires back and forth then pulling the stock rod ends out (he's using a Futaba BLS157hv servo btw). It's much more beefier than the stock rock ends and steel turnbuckle. No problem at all works perfect and fits perfectly.
As for battery I used a Dynamite Reaction 5700mah 3s 80c hardcase battery. The reason why I picked this battery is because of it's high 80c discharge rate, 5c charge rate!!! (that means I can charge it at a max of 28.5amps), it's price was very reasonable, the fact it is a 3s Hardcase which not many companies offer, easy for me to get at my work, and the fact that deans plugs came was a nice plus. The battery fits perfectly in this rig with the battery top piece all the way up, pretty much this was the biggest battery that would fit this Yeti. Performance wise on the track the battery did awesome. I added a little bit of foam on the sides to make sure the battery doesn't slide side to side.
Also before the race I wanted to better support the motor before the plastic motor mount gives too much from jumping the rig. So I found a piece of foam laying around from a Traxxas car and shoved it between the motor and the tranny housing. It all seem to help and I have yet to strip out a spur gear.
Before I raced at the last U4 raced I upgraded the 3mm steering link turnbuckle from the servo horn to a Titanium Lunsford Turnbuckle using Traxxas 3mm GTR rod ends after seeing my buddy pull his out just turning the front tires back and forth then pulling the stock rod ends out (he's using a Futaba BLS157hv servo btw). It's much more beefier than the stock rock ends and steel turnbuckle. No problem at all works perfect and fits perfectly.
As for battery I used a Dynamite Reaction 5700mah 3s 80c hardcase battery. The reason why I picked this battery is because of it's high 80c discharge rate, 5c charge rate!!! (that means I can charge it at a max of 28.5amps), it's price was very reasonable, the fact it is a 3s Hardcase which not many companies offer, easy for me to get at my work, and the fact that deans plugs came was a nice plus. The battery fits perfectly in this rig with the battery top piece all the way up, pretty much this was the biggest battery that would fit this Yeti. Performance wise on the track the battery did awesome. I added a little bit of foam on the sides to make sure the battery doesn't slide side to side.
Also before the race I wanted to better support the motor before the plastic motor mount gives too much from jumping the rig. So I found a piece of foam laying around from a Traxxas car and shoved it between the motor and the tranny housing. It all seem to help and I have yet to strip out a spur gear.
SteveC6R
RCC Addict
Nice touch on the turnbuckle. I went with a Lunsford 4x35mm so I could use Revo ends.
