addiemonster
Pebble Pounder
I got into RC crawling a couple years back with an SCX10II Honch. Loved it, and the bug bit me hard. Though I love my SCX10II's, I would always watch TTC videos on YouTube and see the OG SCX10 competing with the latest and greatest and still holding it's own. The huge diff pumpkin and rudimentary steering setup charmed me to death and I knew I had to have one.
Then it happened. RCC user Doomp had listed one here for sale. It was built to the hilt, but needed a little TLC to run again. His asking price was ridiculously low, and he included an entire bin's worth of spares, including metal upgrades, all the stock bits, two sets of wheels and tires, and even a working winch setup!
These are the pictures from his listing:
I pulled the trigger as soon as I saw it. A few days later, a well-packed and fully-insured orange burrito showed up at my place.
Included in the sale was the stock SCX10 transmission, but I had something else in mind. I recently sold my Element Trailwalker as a slider, but kept the overdriven transmission specifically for this purpose. I had to flip the skid plate around, but it was easier than expected. The upgraded hardware Doomp installed made it a breeze. I could tell right away he really loved this truck. I would have to do it justice.
Once I had a set of SCX10II Wildboars fit to length, I installed my go-to combo: Hobbywing 1080 and Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport 550 15T. Every truck I put this combo in can run for hours and hours with zero heat issues, getting only a little warm after two or three 3S packs. You can't go wrong with it if you like a slow, technical crawl with a healthy amount of torque on a budget.
I had just pulled the stock electronics out of my latest Marlin Crawler TF2 purchase, so I tossed the stock Twister servo in the SCX10 for now. I'll upgrade it to a Reefs of some sort eventually. Oh, and I added drivers to the well-painted interior it came with!
The only thing left to get it running was to bind it all to my DX5 Rugged, program the winch, and toss on some wheels and tires! I had two sets of Marlin Crawler TF2 wheels/tires laying around, so on they went. I think they really suit the truck, but I'm going to be switching to 1.9s with 4.7 or 4.75 tires very soon. I dig the look, though, so I'll be sure to get something with a silver center and red beadlock rings.
The shocks I had originally tossed on were some Redcat Gen8 takeoffs, and I do like them but these ones seem incapable of holding oil. So for now, I switched them out for a set of Gmade G-transitions in a droop configuration. The wheel gap annoys me, but bigger tires will fill it just fine and the truck performs really well, even on 1.7 tires!
Seen here with my main crawling buddy and his trusty Sport:
You may notice I was having some paint issues in some of these photos. Doomp had painted the lips of the fenders and the rocker panels with some sort of bedliner, which was a cool look for sure, but cracked and flaked off after just a few minutes of driving. I wasn't sure what to do about this, and then it hit me. Scrape it all off, sand the truck down, and start rusting it!
I also did a slight paint correction on the front bumper.
What you see here is the end result of two hours of scraping with a flat head screwdriver and a dull Xacto. Podcasts are great when you're doing tedious RC stuff. After the scraping, I sanded the body smooth again and then smeared brick-colored paint into every body line with a q-tip. I then wet sanded the whole thing, varying pressure and degree of sanding where I needed it to look more or less rusty. It's not done yet, as I need to give it a runny vinegar/steel wool liquid rust brush-over to get that streaky rust look down all the panels. Here's where it stands, as I wait for the steel wool to rust for a few days in a jar of vinegar:
Oh yeah, and I figured since the truck came from Utah, it needed a Utah plate to cap it off. Anyone who knows Toyota's truck racing history will know this isn't a Marvel reference. ;-)
Then it happened. RCC user Doomp had listed one here for sale. It was built to the hilt, but needed a little TLC to run again. His asking price was ridiculously low, and he included an entire bin's worth of spares, including metal upgrades, all the stock bits, two sets of wheels and tires, and even a working winch setup!
These are the pictures from his listing:
I pulled the trigger as soon as I saw it. A few days later, a well-packed and fully-insured orange burrito showed up at my place.
Included in the sale was the stock SCX10 transmission, but I had something else in mind. I recently sold my Element Trailwalker as a slider, but kept the overdriven transmission specifically for this purpose. I had to flip the skid plate around, but it was easier than expected. The upgraded hardware Doomp installed made it a breeze. I could tell right away he really loved this truck. I would have to do it justice.
Once I had a set of SCX10II Wildboars fit to length, I installed my go-to combo: Hobbywing 1080 and Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport 550 15T. Every truck I put this combo in can run for hours and hours with zero heat issues, getting only a little warm after two or three 3S packs. You can't go wrong with it if you like a slow, technical crawl with a healthy amount of torque on a budget.
I had just pulled the stock electronics out of my latest Marlin Crawler TF2 purchase, so I tossed the stock Twister servo in the SCX10 for now. I'll upgrade it to a Reefs of some sort eventually. Oh, and I added drivers to the well-painted interior it came with!
The only thing left to get it running was to bind it all to my DX5 Rugged, program the winch, and toss on some wheels and tires! I had two sets of Marlin Crawler TF2 wheels/tires laying around, so on they went. I think they really suit the truck, but I'm going to be switching to 1.9s with 4.7 or 4.75 tires very soon. I dig the look, though, so I'll be sure to get something with a silver center and red beadlock rings.
The shocks I had originally tossed on were some Redcat Gen8 takeoffs, and I do like them but these ones seem incapable of holding oil. So for now, I switched them out for a set of Gmade G-transitions in a droop configuration. The wheel gap annoys me, but bigger tires will fill it just fine and the truck performs really well, even on 1.7 tires!
Seen here with my main crawling buddy and his trusty Sport:
You may notice I was having some paint issues in some of these photos. Doomp had painted the lips of the fenders and the rocker panels with some sort of bedliner, which was a cool look for sure, but cracked and flaked off after just a few minutes of driving. I wasn't sure what to do about this, and then it hit me. Scrape it all off, sand the truck down, and start rusting it!
I also did a slight paint correction on the front bumper.
What you see here is the end result of two hours of scraping with a flat head screwdriver and a dull Xacto. Podcasts are great when you're doing tedious RC stuff. After the scraping, I sanded the body smooth again and then smeared brick-colored paint into every body line with a q-tip. I then wet sanded the whole thing, varying pressure and degree of sanding where I needed it to look more or less rusty. It's not done yet, as I need to give it a runny vinegar/steel wool liquid rust brush-over to get that streaky rust look down all the panels. Here's where it stands, as I wait for the steel wool to rust for a few days in a jar of vinegar:
Oh yeah, and I figured since the truck came from Utah, it needed a Utah plate to cap it off. Anyone who knows Toyota's truck racing history will know this isn't a Marvel reference. ;-)
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