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new2rocks Guide to the TRX-4

I'm having a hard time visualizing this - does someone have a photo of how this is done? I'd like to see if lowering the ride height will help with stability on my Defender (without replacing the shocks).

See the limiter label on this diagram, works the same on all shocks.

oldabsorberschematic2.jpg
 
Just found this thread - great info on the TRX4 chassis and drivetrain. "thumbsup"

Can you comment on motor choice for TRX4 Sport? Does it have the same reduction as the Defender and others?

I had two motors on hand, a Crawlmaster Expert 16T and a Trailmaster 550 21T (it might be a 27T - I always forget to account for the bigger can).
Stock gearing currently, but I probly have some other pinions hanging around.
I ended up installing the Crawlmaster and it runs real nice on 2s, a little fast on 3s, but have not tried the latter in the rocks.

Did I miss the boat using the bigger but cheaper motor? Sure easy to change out.
 
Has anyone had a problem with the exposed portal bearings coming out? had my trx4 for a few years... it's a kit.

I'm not sure what you mean by exposed portal bearing, but I've never had any fall out. Are you sure you have the correct size bearing installed there?
 
I'm not sure what you mean by exposed portal bearing, but I've never had any fall out. Are you sure you have the correct size bearing installed there?

I think he is talking about the bearing that would go in the circled area. The one side is exposed. Can't see it falling out if the three tiny screws are in place.

d5eCtdrm.jpg
 
Has anyone been having issues with the stock diff lock servos stripping inside?

I hav heard of this happening occasionally. I came across this issue during research on which crawler to purchase. It was mentioned on one of the RC REVIEWS YouTube videos, and he has several trx-4's. But it appears to be a less common failure.
I am a noob with no rock crawler.... just so you are aware.
 
Has anyone been having issues with the stock diff lock servos stripping inside?



I hav heard of this happening occasionally. I came across this issue during research on which crawler to purchase. It was mentioned on one of the RC REVIEWS YouTube videos, and he has several trx-4's. But it appears to be a less common failure.

I am a noob with no rock crawler.... just so you are aware.


The Traxxas sub-micro servos have plastic gears and can be a bit delicate. Blue Bird and EcoPower have metal gear sub-micro servos that bolt in and are much stronger. That said, I haven’t lost a shift/diff lock servo yet on my 2 primary TRX-4s.
 
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What type of grease is needed please.

2. Check the diff, tranny and transfer case gears for grease. Greasing from the factory in early production models has been hit or miss, which isn't uncommon with RTRs.
Cases shouldn't be packed with grease, but there should be enough grease to give the gears a nice, full coating.

Thank you, Uncle Pete
 
What type of grease is needed please.

2. Check the diff, tranny and transfer case gears for grease. Greasing from the factory in early production models has been hit or miss, which isn't uncommon with RTRs.
Cases shouldn't be packed with grease, but there should be enough grease to give the gears a nice, full coating.

Thank you, Uncle Pete


Uncle Pete,

I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease and a hobby paint brush as an applicator.

For the price point, I’ll have RC grease for a long time.

d6cded642a1aa10b48d84dc90001aeab.jpg
 
A potential tip for the TRX-4 is a pack of 5 futaba servo extensions, wire them in then seal your radio box from water. Make sure you label them! It should make maintenance on the truck quicker and easier while maintaining the water resistance of your receiver box.



I currently have a pack of 100mm ones on the way to me.
Ive had my Sport for over a year, and somehow JUST caught this 2017 thread?!
This comment???!!??!

My MAN!, THIS is one of the golden friggin eggs of this forum!! Needs to be brought to front/top/center and MADE A DANG STICKY! I cannnnnottttt count the # of times ive had to crack-open/re-crack-open, the darn Rx box!! Infuriating when multi-times-a day...(accidentally factory reset transmitter upon picking it up/switching on), aux ch. Switch-installs-gone-wrong/NOT labeled, rather...'memorized'...[emoji6][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1743][emoji135][emoji1751]

Brings me to next ?

Anyone know a RELIABLE/WATER/WEATHER-PROOF means of labeling RX box cables??? Maybe not like laminated post-it notes...but clean, clear, discreet ways??

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!
 
I have a 2021 Bronco, I find it lacking in performance. I have been doing what I can to make it work better. Has anyone been spending any time working with the "new" bronco. I know alot can transfer over but there is some differences that can be looked at.
 
As an FYI, these are the pin outs on the Pro Scale® Advanced Lighting Control System on the chassis mounted power module if you want to connect additional chassis mounted lights

1 – Headlights Low - “G”
2 - Headlights High– “G”
3 – AUX Low - “M”
4 – AUX High - “M”
5 – Parking Lights “C” + “G”
6 – Brake – “C”
7 – Daytime Running Lights – “N”
8 - Reverse – “A”
9 – Left Blinker
10 - Left Blinker
11 - Right Blinker
12 - Right Blinker
 
those are RC4WD deep dish wheels inside out, and they work great.
With that and a washer to cover the 6mm portion of the stub, the fit is spot on. "thumbsup"

love this guide, I'm going to have to reverse my hubs now to see if it improves the side hilling of my TRX4 Defender, I used the bushing instead of a washer, that Tamiya stick in their 14th scale trucks instead of ball races
 
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Anyone know a RELIABLE/WATER/WEATHER-PROOF means of labeling RX box cables??? Maybe not like laminated post-it notes...but clean, clear, discreet ways??

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

have you thought of colour coding the with different coloured heat shrink tubing on them
 
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