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New Thread for 6Sharky9

wow no one jumped in yet..wow..should be an easy one really...come on guys..why did I do that with the shock hoop extensions?

What does it do?
What does it affect?
 
6sharky9 said:
I was going to do that already and actually I would like one these rc "Experts" to maybe see if they can answer the shock hoop extension question you asked.

How about it experts?
Click to expand...

Trolls avoid questions.

TrollFaceDancing_large.gif
 
6sharky9 said:
wow no one jumped in yet..wow..should be an easy one really...come on guys..why did I do that with the shock hoop extensions?

What does it do?
What does it affect?
Click to expand...

Trolls shift responsibility to others to mask their own lack of knowledge.

TrollFaceDancing_large.gif
 
Id like to talk about wheel travel and how ive achieved the travel I have on my own Honcho rtr

Its said "more than 1 tires height of articulation or wheel travel is a waste"..so lets say for example you have 90mm shocks or less than 4 inches of travel...with a shock installed straight up and down you don't even have 1 tires worth of flex with small ripsaw tires..lol

you get 1 inch of wheel travel for every 1 inch of shock compression if they are mounted straight up and down...So how tall is your tires???????

4.4 inches 4.5 inches??????..Ok so you have less than 4 inches of shock travel and wheel travel..Bummer...So to get that same travel as your tires height you can do one of 2 things.

You can get taller shocks to reach that holy grail of wheel travel... but then suffer with a higher COG or you can gain travel by mounting your shocks in what is called ALPHA ANGLE...This is when you lean the top of your shock down..What this does is increase wheel travel with less up travel from the shock..Meaning your wheel may move 3 inches upward but your shock only moves maybe 2 inches leaving you with more wheel travel before your shock bottoms out..The angle at which you mount your shock will determine that ratio between wheel travel vs shock travel so you will have to experiment as I did to get it right for your tires/shocks.

This method has other effects though you should know about...it will make your shock act as a softer set up and it lowers your truck the farther you lean them in....so if you feel its too soft for your liking then more shock tuning will be needed to correct that...If your truck sits too low then you need longer shocks to achieve the desired set up...The fact that your truck will respond a lot better to the terrain as well shouldn't be a problem for some of you...If you have stock shock hoops and shocks then mount the shock in to the last holes leaning the shock in the direction of the middle of the chassis...you wont be sorry you did as initial set up..Its not such a drastic change that you have over 1 tires travel but will add to your travel none the less even if only a few millimeters.

What I did on my Honcho was use custom 93mm shocks and layed my shocks down more than the supplied shock hoop mounting holes....This brought my ride height back to stock and actually made my COG lower than stock as the weight of the shocks were moved down as well..Plus I achieved the wheel travel I was after.

I will close by saying you really can only have as much wheel travel as your body and tires will allow before rubbing and destroying your body..How much that is is up to you.

I have a custom scaler also but use stock RTR Honcho 90mm shocks and have well over 45 degrees of articulation because of the angle I mounted the top of the shock...I get just over 5 inches of wheel travel from shocks that aren't even 4 inches of travel...Too much?...well my tires are 5 inches tall so I think its just about right.
 
6sharky9 said:
Id like to talk about wheel travel and how ive achieved the travel I have on my own Honcho rtr

Its said "more than 1 tires height of articulation or wheel travel is a waste"..so lets say for example you have 90mm shocks or less than 4 inches of travel...with a shock installed straight up and down you don't even have 1 tires worth of flex with small ripsaw tires..lol

you get 1 inch of wheel travel for every 1 inch of shock compression if they are mounted straight up and down...So how tall is your tires???????

4.4 inches 4.5 inches??????..Ok so you have less than 4 inches of shock travel and wheel travel..Bummer...So to get that same travel as your tires height you can do one of 2 things.

You can get taller shocks to reach that holy grail of wheel travel... but then suffer with a higher COG or you can gain travel by mounting your shocks in what is called ALPHA ANGLE...This is when you lean the top of your shock down..What this does is increase wheel travel with less up travel from the shock..Meaning your wheel may move 3 inches upward but your shock only moves maybe 2 inches leaving you with more wheel travel before your shock bottoms out..The angle at which you mount your shock will determine that ratio between wheel travel vs shock travel so you will have to experiment as I did to get it right for your tires/shocks.

This method has other effects though you should know about...it will make your shock act as a softer set up and it lowers your truck the farther you lean them in....so if you feel its too soft for your liking then more shock tuning will be needed to correct that...If your truck sits too low then you need longer shocks to achieve the desired set up...The fact that your truck will respond a lot better to the terrain as well shouldn't be a problem for some of you...If you have stock shock hoops and shocks then mount the shock in to the last holes leaning the shock in the direction of the middle of the chassis...you wont be sorry you did as initial set up..Its not such a drastic change that you have over 1 tires travel but will add to your travel none the less even if only a few millimeters.

What I did on my Honcho was use custom 93mm shocks and layed my shocks down more than the supplied shock hoop mounting holes....This brought my ride height back to stock and actually made my COG lower than stock as the weight of the shocks were moved down as well..Plus I achieved the wheel travel I was after.

I will close by saying you really can only have as much wheel travel as your body and tires will allow before rubbing and destroying your body..How much that is is up to you.

I have a custom scaler also but use stock RTR Honcho 90mm shocks and have well over 45 degrees of articulation because of the angle I mounted the top of the shock...I get just over 5 inches of wheel travel from shocks that aren't even 4 inches of travel...Too much?...well my tires are 5 inches tall so I think its just about right.
Click to expand...

So what made you go with that length of shock extension?
 
I mentioned that...to get my ride height back to stock height..If I just used the supplied holes in the shock hoops I would've raised my CG as it would've been higher than stock..I also made my 100mm shocks 93mm as 100mm would've had had me mounting the shock way down to achieve my stock height and give me more articulation or travel than I could use before hittong the cage in the rear or the fender in the front enough that it would tear the body up
 
WHITE-TRASH said:
How about the mounts I made last winter?

20140105_144024_zps005b1f23.jpg



Just because you haven't seen a step by step instruction thread on how to drill some holes in pieces of aluminum doesn't mean you are the first one to do it. ;-)
Click to expand...

I don't care for those type brackets..id rather lay the shock down for reasons I explained...And please no more toe shots:lmao:
 
6sharky9 said:
I don't care for those type brackets..id rather lay the shock down for reasons I explained...And please no more toe shots:lmao:
Click to expand...


The further from vertical the shocks get the less linear their valving and spring rate become. I'd rather have the valving in check and keep the COG as low as possible.

A little cutting of the body doesn't bother me. But I guess that's obvious since this is my old wheeler.

Edited_Photo-0091.jpg
 
6sharky9 said:
I mentioned that...to get my ride height back to stock height..If I just used the supplied holes in the shock hoops I would've raised my CG as it would've been higher than stock..I also made my 100mm shocks 93mm as 100mm would've had had me mounting the shock way down to achieve my stock height and give me more articulation or travel than I could use before hittong the cage in the rear or the fender in the front enough that it would tear the body up
Click to expand...

So I guess my 100mm King Shocks are useless and incorrect since I can just about tuck tire in the rear of my Dinky Honcho fenders and not rub in the front with Rock Beasts? And still be able to flex a Solo cup?

Why not angle the shock more than what you did? Why not mount the lower shock mount to a lower link and closer to the cab?
 
WHITE-TRASH said:
The further from vertical the shocks get the less linear their valving and spring rate become. I'd rather have the valving in check and keep the COG as low as possible.

A little cutting of the body doesn't bother me. But I guess that's obvious since this is my old wheeler.

Edited_Photo-0091.jpg
Click to expand...


Yea..i mentioned it makes them softer so maybe more tuning would be needed if you didn't like it..to me it tracks over rocks much better..Look at rock crawlers how low they mount the tops..they travel over rocks and terrain lot better than basic scale rigs do don't they?
 
KillerBlackbird said:
So I guess my 100mm King Shocks are useless and incorrect since I can just about tuck tire in the rear of my Dinky Honcho fenders and not rub in the front with Rock Beasts? And still be able to flex a Solo cup?

Why not angle the shock more than what you did? Why not mount the lower shock mount to a lower link and closer to the cab?
Click to expand...


If you found something that works for you that's great man..I did mine like I did for reasons I wanted only.
 
6sharky9 said:
Yea..i mentioned it makes them softer so maybe more tuning would be needed if you didn't like it..to me it tracks over rocks much better..Look at rock crawlers how low they mount the tops..they travel over rocks and terrain lot better than basic scale rigs do don't they?
Click to expand...


Sportsman and pro rigs lay the shocks down and put limiters in the shocks to keep travel from being excessive while keeping the COG as low as possible.


My crawler is built that way but my TTC rig has them mounted more vertical to keep it relatively scale.
 
You can get the same travel with smaller sized shocks if you wanted to and lower your CG as well ...I was after both of those things and that's just how I accomplished it..Maybe try it some day and see if you like it...if you don't shouldnt be hard to go back to your set up...I used some carbon fiber I had left over from a project I did with an 1/8 scale buggy build..so figured out a way to use it...Im happy with my set up.

EDIT: was response to blackbird
 
WHITE-TRASH said:
Sportsman and pro rigs lay the shocks down and put limiters in the shocks to keep travel from being excessive while keeping the COG as low as possible.


My crawler is built that way but my TTC rig has them mounted more vertical to keep it relatively scale.
Click to expand...

My limiter was the max travel the shock had..I put limiters in the shock to limit it to 93mm..they were 100..I didn't like the height it gave nor the high CG..so with the change I made it give me max travel before destroying the body in the front and rubbing hard against the cage in the rear....work out pretty well for what I was after
 
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