• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

new safari in with broken axle. are there upgraded axles?

Thumpingbeetle

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
108
Location
Newmarket
new safari in with broken axle. my safari build

So got the venom safari in last night and while checking it over i found a stripped front left axle shaft at the wheel. So I called venom and well they are shipping me a new one tomorrow for free. I would have to say awesome customer service and you talk to a actual person, not a machine. But since I found this I figure the axles might be a weak point so was wondering if anyone recommended a axle upgrade for both the front and the back that is a direct replacement and stronger? Also whats the average runtime on a stock set up with a 2 cell 4000mah lipo in these things with mild driving? All in all I love the look and feel of driving this truck minus the three wheel drive.

Thanks Guys.
 
Last edited:
let me refrase that I mean the axle shaft going into the wheel hub. the dogbone part was sheared off totally. not the actual axle assembly. Im looking for a upgraded axle shaft that connects to the hub.
 
These are usually good. You will break some but for the most part they are good. There is no aftermarket replacement.
 
Best thing to do is weld the broken one together an use it for a rear axle.. then you have the two in the rear to use for the front... Or you can do a Xr-10 mod steering. Thomas is also coming out with knuckles to run Xr-10 universals. Just cut them to length, grind the sides slightly, an go.. no more broken stock axles..
 
So my new axle should be here tuesday and cant wait. but on a better note i was told to get better clearence and articulation to take out the inner spring in the shock and well it really helped but now the driveshaft is kinda getting bound up from the angle and the axles being farther down. So here are some pictures of it all and you can see my girlfriends truck in the background.
 
2012-09-23_19-20-45_262_zps5579e531.jpg

2012-09-23_19-20-08_414_zps97c8de4b.jpg

2012-09-23_19-18-12_767_zpse657177e.jpg

2012-09-23_19-18-21_489_zps83f14551.jpg

2012-09-23_19-19-22_976_zps327155aa.jpg


2012-09-23_19-19-41_921_zpsb1421b1f.jpg
 
You can put the anti roll springs back in or change ur shock position.. mounting the top of ur shock in the top hole of the chassis was one of my first steps.. you get less ground clearance but drops out when ur skid plate touches a rock.. still plenty of clearance.. or like a scaler, mount them to the chassis rails..
 
i looked for more holes on the frame but cant find any other places to mount the shock tops. where would you be talking about mounting them?? and if I did would i still need to put the inner springs back in or is there something i can do to the drive shafts to relieve the angle?
 
Traxxas metal yokes an plastic shafts.. drop the venom shafts or wait till they break.. look thru my pics for chassis mounting options, Rmdw tips an tricks.. all 100+ pages.. lots of reading an looking at pics.. or mount them like a scaler.. vertical.. what are you trying to do with It? Scale or crawl?
 
well i kinda want both and i know that isnt a option really but my girlfriend wants too crawl and if I scale I wont ba able to keep up with her so i guess I want to crawl. later I will get a scale rig and maybe do it as a kit instead of rtr.
 
I have mips on my creeper an scx-10.. th only thing with them is with too much angle, they run out of pivot as well.. if you look at my earlier pages of my build, you will see shock placement at the chassis... If ur goin to crawl, you have a great rig for it! Just some elementrey changes and reading! LOL.. its all been covered an posted on these pages... the best thing you can learn is that too much articulation is Bad .. an that is what you have.. too much actually.. as I read it, slows you down an from experience hurts ur crawling more then it helps..
 
The junfacs are basically garbage. I'd know, I owned a set.

They won't take as steep an angle as the plastic Traxxas replacement U-jointed shafts with the steel output yokes.

The MIP's are bombproof, but still won't take as steep an angle as the traxxas shafts.
 
The Traxxas shafts work real good for 4x4.. never popped one or broke one.. had one look like a twisler.. but never broke or let me down.. if ur goin to comp an run dig.. diff story, deff metal up front...
 
hey winnerone what are the length of the m3 bolts you are useing for attaching the lower part of the shock and the arm to the axle when you were attaching it to the plastic? do you understand what im asking? i know kinda vague. Also would it be ok on mine to cut the plastic that attaches to the frame where you have the front upper part of the shocks attached?
 
Back
Top