Need advice from 'Upgraded SCX24' owners

[high plains drifter]

I need some help here from folks that have done any of these mods that I'm wanting to do. I don't have money to burn so if anyone sees something here that is an unnecessary mod or poorly designed/ made part... please let me know. I've read a lot of threads on people's scx24 upgrades but I'd rather post up the specifics of my intentions because it'll take me way too long to read back through the entire SCX24 section to find the answers. Feel free to post up a link to your modded scx24 if you have any of these parts and feel like it would be relevant. Thanks much, guys.

1) Hot Racing 050 High Torque Motor w/ Pinion 66t
2) Hot Racing Modify Motor Plate
3) Hot Racing 32mm Internal Spring Air Shocks
4) Hot Racing Aluminum Link Set ( for Deadbolt)

I'm sure that I want to upgrade the steering linkage but I'm wondering for those of you that have either of these steering link sets listed below, what are your thoughts on either? I'd like to know what one would be the better choice:

OPTION 1) Hot Racing Aluminum Fix Tight Tolerance Steering Rod Link
OPTION 2) Yeah Racing Aluminum Steering Rod Link Set

Not sure how relevant this is, but below I've listed the mods that I've done so far... all of which I'm happy with although even though I did the O-ring mod to the steering linkage, I still would like to replace it with something more rigid like the two that I listed above.

> RC4WD Classic 8-hole 1.0 bead-lock wheels
> RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 1.0 tires
> Hot Racing brass diff covers ( painted black)
> Hudy graphite grease on worm gears
> EMAX ES08MDII 13g digital metal-gear servo plus ( 2) guitar string ball-end spacers ( approx 3mm) and ( 2) 11.33mm mounting screws
> Ovonic AIR 450mAh 50C 2S lipo
> O-rings ( 1 between drag-link & tie-rod/ 1 at each end of tie-rod at the steering knuckles) 3 total

 

[tigris99]

If your on a budget go for stuff off Amazon. Injora links works great, their what I have. The hot racing which I have a set of as well (was a c10, converted to the gladiator wheel base when I decided to do a 3d printed cab and tube bed) and injora is on par with hot racing and a little bit cheaper.

I haven't personally found a reason to do some new motor or motor plate. Stock motor works just fine.

No experience with hot racing shocks, they are ones I have looked at, I have injora shocks at the moment. I haven't messed with further upgrades yet beyond of course brass, wheels and tires because of my 1/10 projects and as my 24 sits now it's still fun as hell. Being a 1/24 I have no desire to dump a ton of money in it because no matter what it's still going to be limited due to size. I'm going more to boost performance a bit to keep it fun but more after making it look sweet.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WickedFrog]

Yeah Racing - Junk
Hot Racing and Treal make really nice stuff.

The best servo I have tried in these trucks is the Eco Power 827. You have to use the Hot Racing mount with it - part #HRASXTF24M01 (not the other one Hot Racing sells). Here is a vid of the Eco Power in action on our Deadbox build...
https://youtube.com/shorts/wOayRsw4U10?feature=share

As for the motor, the PN Racing motor/gearbox/gear set is your best brushed option, but requires a few mods to move things around. The motor mounts foward by design, so the ESC will need to be moved. But I highly advise against this option because you have to remove one of the ESC tray mounts, which causes the shock to pivot its mount. So we mounted our motor rearward and 3d printed a new battery mount to mount it beside the chassis.

 

[high plains drifter]

I appreciate the replies.

I've been happy with the Hot Racing upgrades that I've done to some of my other rigs and the HR diff covers I put on my scx24 are very well machined as well. I've had some YR parts on some other rigs as well and have no major complaints.

I also have no issues with the EMAX ES08 MDII servo I'm currently running in my scx24 so I hopefully won't be swapping that out anytime soon.

I hadn't really considered Amazon/ Injora so I took a look last night. Seems the biggest savings out of the parts that I mentioned would be going with Injora or other off-brand suspension links as opposed to the HR links so I may run with your advice, tigris99 and get the Injoras. Other than that, the steering rod sets are about the same price as the ones that I have listed.

Regarding the motor, I've seen some good reviews on the HR 050 that I listed but don't see it on Amazon. I'm glad that some people are still doing okay with the stock motor but that's one thing I'd really like to play around with due to a good number of people saying that their oem scx24 motor crapped out. Some people say that the HR 050 that I mentioned, has smoother acceleration than the stock one too. Just wanted to see if anyone else here was using it.

Most of the shocks that I see on Amazon appear way too long/ too much travel and most have pretty bad reviews. Stock shocks on the scx24 have quite a bit of a springy feeling so I was curious about the ones that I listed due to them possibly having a bit more stability and a smoother piston cycle.

Overall I'm not looking to just spend money but I was recently considering buying the new FMS FXC24 Butcher and I think that rather than do that ( knowing that it'll likely wind up being a long list of mod parts to come) I'd rather just put a few new parts into my SCX24 which I already love. Regarding the parts that I listed in the OP, I simply want to add a little bit more stability and replace some of the more flexible plastic parts with some more rigid aluminum parts. And an extra motor... even if just for back-up never hurts.

 

[GChambers]

I've bought pretty much every single Injora part they sell. Most are complete garbage. Fit and finish is terrible. Their old axle housings wouldn't accept any of the servo trays or rear link mounts. They had a completely different shape. Their old links had very inconsistent bores. Some were so sloppy the pivot balls fell out. Some were so tight I couldn't jam them in. Very frustrating. Having said all that, their new high clearance 4link sets on Amazon are very nice. Lengths are perfect and fit and finish is nearly perfect.

I'm a fan of the Hot Racing steering links and shocks. They're very nice. Their steering link is actually cheaper than Injora. It's a great piece. Night and day better than your oring modded stock rack. Also very much like their aluminum skid plates and aluminum trans cases. Their motor is not my favorite. I actually prefer the Barrage .050 motors. They're cheap if you can find them and have much better power than stock.

Your Wranglers are great tires but if you really want a big jump in performance, find a bigger diameter tire in a really sticky compound. It will completely transform your rig.

 

[high plains drifter]

Hey, Thanks so much for the additional help ^^^. I had originally wanted to replace the stock motor with the Barrage .050 but seemed I couldn't find them in stock whenever I was wanting to buy. So I started looking at others. Mainly I want to have a second motor on deck for when the stock one gives up. I'll have to take another look at all these parts again as I put all this on the back-burner last couple weeks.

 

[GChambers]

Hey, Thanks so much for the additional help ^^^. I had originally wanted to replace the stock motor with the Barrage .050 but seemed I couldn't find them in stock whenever I was wanting to buy. So I started looking at others. Mainly I want to have a second motor on deck for when the stock one gives up. I'll have to take another look at all these parts again as I put all this on the back-burner last couple weeks.

Strangely, I found mine on Amazon. They were out of stock everywhere else. I think I paid $5.99 a piece for them. You'll also need a motor plate for it. The mounting bolts are opposite of the stock motor. Injora has a mounting plate for about $8 on Amazon as well.

 

[high plains drifter]

I'll have to check out Amazon. last time I was looking at scx24 stuff I wasn't even considering the Barrage. I would guess that most aftermarket motor plates would work with that motor? Already have the HR plate in my cart at amain.

 

[2471:24]

You can also drill holes in your existing motor plate. I did so when I installed my barrage motor. Worked fine.

 

[high plains drifter]

Sometimes the simplest solutions elude me lol. Never considered modifying the oem plate although I might've figured that out eventually lol... or not. Thank you... much appreciate the heads-up on that.

Just for the heck of it, a couple pics of my scx24 Scratchy Edition with lots of little aesthetic additions-

 

[2471:24]

Nice pics. Btw, the barrage motor works in different way than the scx24 motor, you have to open the pins and connect them the other way, or solder the wires. Otherwise when you hit the throttle, it starts reversing. Forgot to mention that earlier.

 

[high plains drifter]

Ah, thanks. And I appreciate you letting me know about the polarity. That saves me some potential hassle if I decide to drop the Barrage into this rig.

 

[Speedy-Triple]

one of the best upgrades i did to my scx24 is the RCAWD cvd axle shafts ... the original design with the dog bones, has been the culprit of killing the stock motor. In short the pin that holds the drive cup at the at the knuckles tend to slide off and then locking (added resistance to the rotation) I thought about experimenting with some heat shrink to keep them from sliding off but never got around that. however with these cvs, the drivetrain is so smooth i no longer have to keep checking for binds while using the stock dogbones. I got them on the auction site but i believe RCAWD has a website. not affiliated but i really liked this product and is fairly inexpensive given that is an upgrade that will prolong the lifespan of the motor.

 

[high plains drifter]

one of the best upgrades i did to my scx24 is the RCAWD cvd axle shafts ... the original design with the dog bones, has been the culprit of killing the stock motor. In short the pin that holds the drive cup at the at the knuckles tend to slide off and then locking (added resistance to the rotation) I thought about experimenting with some heat shrink to keep them from sliding off but never got around that. however with these cvs, the drivetrain is so smooth i no longer have to keep checking for binds while using the stock dogbones. I got them on the auction site but i believe RCAWD has a website. not affiliated but i really liked this product and is fairly inexpensive given that is an upgrade that will prolong the lifespan of the motor.

You know, I had heard about this issue shortly after the release of the scx24. Never ran into the problem myself but I haven't used this little rig all that much nor too aggressively since I've had it. And I remember hearing about folks playing around with the shrink-tubing fix but that was about it then I forgot about it. I'll have to look around for the cvd's as that sounds like a good idea to prolong motor life... any motor that I'm using.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Zenith the Zero]

I'll have to look around for the cvd's as that sounds like a good idea to prolong motor life... any motor that I'm using.

Here’s the link on their website.

 

[high plains drifter]

Hey thanks! Those look really nice actually.