Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[hipkatgreaser]

Sunset on Clearlake

RPPHobby nice little crawl course just outside the shop, complete with several bridges, waterfall with creeks, very nice vendor's midway too! I was told that Pitbull Braven Ironside 1.9 is due in stores in 3 weeks, very nice looking scale tires that I was able to touch and look at. HPI Venture FJ was actually there running under it's own power too, looked great.

Ernie receiving award, I shoulda been quicker on the camera.

Return

Here's a better one

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[HumboldtEF]

So I just figured out the bonehead mistake I made with my Ascender at the Jamboree.
I had the steering go out on my Ascender and I though I had tracked it down to a bad receiver channel. So this morning as I was hooking up the new receiver and still wasn't getting steering.

Well it turns out I had simply bumped and held down the button for steering rate long enough to turn steering down to 0% on my DX4C (which takes a few seconds of holding the button down)
I've bumped this button before but only enough to drop it to 98-99%, so I didn't even think to check, plus as you hold this button it beeps but I didn't hear it unfortunately.

Oh and I was also checking out the RPP pictures on facebook and found a few new ones

Nate winning one of the raffle goodie bags "thumbsup"

Thanks again for the battery trays for the SCX 10.2 "thumbsup"

Me winning an SCX-10.2, I was very stoked to get this (its usually hard to make me smile)

 

[Natedog]

Hipkatgreaser thanks for the better picture!

Casey, bummer about your steering, good deal you had a spare truck and then caught back up to us! At least you figured it out and was cheap fix. Thanks for the good pictures too! Was great that couple of us won raffle stuff, the SCX10ii wow and you’re welcome for the battery trays.

 

[Browneye]

Nice thread, read the first and last half dozen and will browse thru the rest of it as time allows.

I like what you've done with your trucks over the past couple of years, that's cool. Gives one good perspective of what works and what could work better.

Couple'a quick questions if I may...
I like my K10 custom so well, the turquois one with flatbed, so I'm thinking of building one from a kit, either a jeep like my 1:1 I had (yeah, ran the Rubicon - looks like you're up that way and like to camp and that's cool!) so that would be a short WB, but I think the longer WB seems to work better so maybe the 66 chev PL body and build a full length WB. Any input on that welcomed.

So as I shop for parts for a kit, the array of esc's and motors is mind boggling - can you make a recommendation? I'm not unhappy with the stock vaterra 35T but wouldn't mind a little more wheelspeed. I know everything is a compromise. And any other recommendations for starting from scratch would be appreciated.

And I'm sure it's up thread, but tell me what you're using for headlight buckets as I have some ebay led's coming for head and tail lights, I can hang the red lamps off the modified K10 tube bed, but not sure what to do for the fronts. I'd just like to have working head and taillights.

Thanks - and keep on keepin' on. Your pics and story are great!

From the last outing...they're always a work in progress aren't they? I've since installed Pitbull RB in 4.45 size, the komp ones for scale - they seem pretty good but next time will be alien komps. Had I known... Oh, and axial black 8-hole beadlocks, they're fine for what I do. I sure like beadlocks vs glue-on for sure.
My other hobby is brewing craft beer, so my natural inclination for a one-off is a given.

 

[Natedog]

Thanks, it’s a lot of fun and cheaper than my 1:1 Yota was, ran the Rubicon for years several times per year. There are several good reads in the Ascender section, Itali83, Yet.stealth, Codyboy, Jeepiac, SHOme and more, take your time enjoy your truck while reading and building your next one. Pick the body you like and do it, but longer 12.3” wb seems to crawl best imo.

My K10 headlight buckets are Axial Deadbolt lightbar bucket and lenses with Common Sense 5mm leds. Favorite ESC currently is Hobbywing wp1080 paired with HH 21T 550 motor on 3s. Protek 3500mah 3S LIHV battery, small physical size, heavy dense internals, great performance! I’ve relocated battery and tray on my K10 and am doing complete lcg rework, I’ll put some pictures up soon. Your K10 looks good too, love a good IPA!

 

[OldNTired]

That new 46 Power Wagon is coming!! Bet it would look real nice attached to that K10 cage.

 

[durok]

That new 46 Power Wagon is coming!! Bet it would look real nice attached to that K10 cage.

Spotted a company already advertising pre-order 3D grille and interior parts for that body...

 

[Natedog]

That new Pro-Line 46 Power Wagon looks great and set for 12.3"wb!
https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/1946-dodge-power-wagon-clear-body/

New 21T 550 motor, 3S 3500mah LIHV battery setup.
ProTek RC 3S 100C Silicon Graphene HV Shorty LiPo Battery (11.4V/3600mAh)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek...ipo-battery-11.4v-3600mah-ptk-5116-17/p662759

First iteration of battery mount and brackets, need to get picture of the new brackets. Front of batter tray just keys into the frame rail channels at the front for easy lightweight attachment and easy to remove for maintenance. This is a fixed battery mount for now, maybe floating later. K10 frame setup WB2 with WB4 rear links so battery space is tight especially with the beloved 550 motor in place, but it all fits!

 

[HumboldtEF]

Ah so the longer motor interferes with the battery mount, I was wonder why you were changing that.

I see you picked up one of the Protek Shorties, I just realized I wasn't taking full advantage of the LIHV's extra voltage as I was charging them as a Lipo. I ended up picking up a new Hitec X2 charger which can charge a lot more varieties than my last.

I also decided to pick up a sway bar for the Ascender after seeing it mentioned enough, and I've seen the amount of twist just by pushing it slowly by hand, LOL. I'll be hunting down yours and Yeti Stealth's posts regarding that. EDIT: I found some sway bar posts on pages 36 and 37

 

[Natedog]

Yes, there's not much room for longer motors in stock configuration and the 21T 550 is an awesome brushed motor.

Yes, you converted me, love em, thanks! I need to check my Hitec X2 settings, been charging them at lipo too :ror: "thumbsup"
http://hitecrcd.com/images/products/pdf/401_X2_ACPro_ManualV3-RSize.pdf

Yes, Axial Wraith front swaybar on the rear using my own softer bar made of piano wire. Yeti.stealth came up with moutning bar forward of the rear axle through the frame rails. "thumbsup"

 

[Browneye]

New Traxxas Titan 21T 550 motor, 3S 3500mah LIHV battery setup.
ProTek RC 3S 100C Silicon Graphene HV Shorty LiPo Battery (11.4V/3600mAh)

Please explain the performance characteristics of this setup... "thumbsup"

 

[durok]

JINX!!! I literally was JUST thinking of how you were able to wedge a 550 can in a K10, because mine is almost touchin' the battery tray with the stocker... too cool.

What pinion do you run with that combo, outta curiosity ?

I mean, you got 3S instead of 2S, as well as that motor... stock spur, I assume?

(last question for now, I promise...)

Ummmmm... what size bolt are you guys using when outboarding the rear shocks?

(I haven't yet built up a bunch of spares to pick through as of yet...)

I need to install my SSD brass knuckles & Pro C-hubs, and my STRC alloy upper link mounts & rear lockouts w/big bearings and want to do it all at once, ideally.

Currently fighting the urge to replace wheels/tires...

 

[Natedog]

Please explain the performance characteristics of this setup... "thumbsup"

More power, lighter smaller battery that has lots of voltage and long run time. "thumbsup"

JINX!!! I literally was JUST thinking of how you were able to wedge a 550 can in a K10, because mine is almost touchin' the battery tray with the stocker... too cool.

What pinion do you run with that combo, outta curiosity ?

I mean, you got 3S instead of 2S, as well as that motor... stock spur, I assume?

Ummmmm... what size bolt are you guys using when outboarding the rear shocks?

Currently fighting the urge to replace wheels/tires...

Thanks!

Stock pinion/spur.

Lower shock mount screw length?

Cool, reduce weight up high and add some non-rotating down low. "thumbsup"

Why?

 

[HumboldtEF]

Lower shock mount screw length?

I'm pretty sure he's asking how long the screws need to be able to move the shocks outward from the stock location. I grabbed the longest screws I had, I can check the measurements later tonight.

 

[ScoJac]

I'm pretty sure he's asking how long the screws need to be able to move the shocks outward from the stock location. I grabbed the longest screws I had, I can check the measurements later tonight.

I used m3x35mm button head Perfect fit Axial # AX31119

 

[Natedog]

HumboldtEF, yes prolly. 35mm will work, iirc I cut mine down to 32mm so as to have just a thread or two past the locknuts. "thumbsup"

I used m3x35mm button head Perfect fit Axial # AX31119

Buttonheads "thumbsup"

 

[durok]

I'm pretty sure he's asking how long the screws need to be able to move the shocks outward from the stock location. I grabbed the longest screws I had, I can check the measurements later tonight.

I used m3x35mm button head Perfect fit Axial # AX31119

HumboldtEF, yes prolly. 35mm will work, iirc I cut mine down to 32mm so as to have just a thread or two past the locknuts. "thumbsup"



Buttonheads "thumbsup"

Shoot - you guys are the greatest! :ror:

I immediately pulled my Bomber manual - longest they have are m3x30mm included - both button & cap head styles(I bought a SS screw kit that I'll use for those applications, so all original screws are available as extras...) so I guess - off to the hobby shop/hardware store I go!

Or:

Are you guys using the "thin" m3 nylon locking nut(AXA1052) , or the regular(AXA1053)?

I could at least test fit a thin nut on a m3x30mm and see if I get full engagement.

I have a Futaba 3PV (also for the Bomber) that I can program for each vehicle, if I buy a second receiver. Or, I could pick up a FlySky tx/rx for barely any more than the Futaba rx alone... food for thought.

 

[Browneye]

More power, lighter smaller battery that has lots of voltage and long run time. "thumbsup"

Sure, but what exactly does 'more power' do for you? What does the higher voltage do? More torque, ground speed, control? I'm new so I'm just not grasping what these specs accomplish.

And why would a 3500mah battery last longer than a 4000mah battery? Does the higher voltage conserve power somehow? I get 2s has lower voltage than 3s, but does that make the battery last longer too?

 

[HumboldtEF]

Shoot - you guys are the greatest! :ror:

I immediately pulled my Bomber manual - longest they have are m3x30mm included - both button & cap head styles(I bought a SS screw kit that I'll use for those applications, so all original screws are available as extras...) so I guess - off to the hobby shop/hardware store I go!

Or:

Are you guys using the "thin" m3 nylon locking nut(AXA1052) , or the regular(AXA1053)?

I could at least test fit a thin nut on a m3x30mm and see if I get full engagement.

32MM is perfect (good memory Nate!) and that's accounting for a standard size nylock, theres 28MM of material to go through if your using the stock shock end links, I suppose if its not stock it could be thicker.

 

[Natedog]

More power is good to have handy, sometimes a climb requires more wheelspeed and sometimes I just like to spin a few donuts or toss a little dirt roost. Higher voltage is more efficient and you can gear down for more low speed/start up control if you want and still have the wheel speed that you need.
https://blog.holmeshobbies.com/?page_id=373

A smaller milliamp battery lasts longer because it's a better battery, less internal resistance.

Thanks Casey, yes with standard nylock, I only use the thin nuts in close tolerance areas or to save weight up high.