Natedog's Honcho kit build

[Natedog]

Might use some lexan and a heat gun to preform something for the inside of the upper cab corners.

I saw a post where they used a piece of lexan and shoe glue to beef up the back of the cab (lower).

Yes, saw that post too...shoegoo'd a piece of lexan inside the cab to reinforce the lower four holes. Think it's gonna be hard to do much for the top two holes.

I used some lexan welding lenses tey were just the right size and very tuff.

Got a pic?

Got it bound, steering trimmed, steering endpoints set, reversed channel 2 (throttle) and it works but will not save the throttle revers setting! WTH?

Reset it 10 times and it won't stay reversed!:evil:

After about 20 minutes of messing with it my radio started beeping like low battery, even though my nimhs were just fully charged. The nimhs are kinda old though and they don't get as much voltage even at full charge as regular old alkaline batteries. Too tired to mess with it anymore tonight.

 

[Natedog]

OK...that's why I shouldn't work on things like this late at night. Little help from a friend and got it figured.

I ordered my 3s lipos, so I'll need some better driveshafts soon. Maxx shafts work great, are light weight, long enough without gluing together two shafts (like I usually have to do with Stampede shafts), but I don't like the big diameter that drags on rocks more. MIPs are heavy, I never used them as I try to keep my truck light and reduce drivetrain mass except at the wheels where we need some weight for lowering COG. I'm going to 3s soon so I'll be needing something better than stocker Axial driveshafts wtih the retaining rings. I've read alot and seen other friend's trucks, but not settled on which driveshafts yet. Axials' new Wraith shafts look great but I've seen them twist and break due to 3s lipo power. Losi LCC shafts are nice looking and similar to the new Axial Wraith shafts, not sure how they do on 3s though.

What do you all recommend and why?

I want to replace mine with an allen head type that I can get tight easier, dang phillips is not good for hi-torque. Tried matching it up with my metric thread pitch gauge, but nothing seems to match. :???: Anybody know what size the Hi-Tec servo horn retaining screw is?

 

[Scottmisfits]

Hitec servo screws are 2.6mm. Why they did this is beyond me, but they did. When I actually liked Hitec and used them a lot, if I lost the 2.6mm screw I would put in a 2.5mm screw. It's very close and I never had any issues with them.

 

[Natedog]

Hitec servo screws are 2.6mm. Why they did this is beyond me, but they did. When I actually liked Hitec and used them a lot, if I lost the 2.6mm screw I would put in a 2.5mm screw. It's very close and I never had any issues with them.

Thanks for the size, have to double check if my thread pitch gauge has that size....might have been late at night when I checked. :lmao: WHat are some of these companies thinking when they do stuff like this? Do you recall the length of the stocker?

Found the size 2.6x8mm is the Hitec factory servo horn screw size, wish they came in buttonhead, don't think the standard socket head cap screw will clear my crossmember even though my front axle is rotated back a good bit.

http://www.mcmaster.com

Metric Class 12.9 Alloy Steel
Fully Threaded

Made from a high-strength steel alloy, these are the metric versions of our popular inch size alloy steel screws. Screw length is measured from under the head.

Standard thread and fine thread screws have a dark surface color as a result of heat treatment. They have a Class 5g6g thread fit, a minimum Rockwell hardness of C39, and minimum tensile strength of 174,000 psi. Dimensions meet DIN 912/ISO 4762. Fine thread screws allow precision adjustment.

8mm
10mm
or 12mm length
Package Qty 50

What servos do you like now and why?

 

[Scottmisfits]

8 or 10mm will work fine.

I do have a Hitec 7950 right now as well as the Quad charger. I really don't like supporting Hitec because of the way I was treated by their customer service department over a warranty issue. I sent in a servo under warranty and they sent me back a lesser servo and charged me full retail for it. When I questioned it they basically told me to F-off.

I tried out a couple of other brands and have swayed away from that only to always end up back at Futaba. I run Futaba servo's in everything I have at this point except for my Honcho and I have a Traxxas 2075 in that and my XR10 wich still has the 7950 but as soon as it dies I have my 9157 Futaba going in it.

 

[inkdaddy66]

Lookin great. I like your fabrication work. Its always nice when enthusiasts toss their own spin on RC projects. Keep it up.

Tbolt meatclaws-talkatap

 

[Natedog]

8 or 10mm will work fine....

Thanks and thanks for servo info, I have not had a problem with them yet....but you never know. I have a few RC companies that I wrote off and will never buy from again too. :evil: Time to order some more screws or might just use the screws from my dead Hi-Tecs since they're cheaper.

Lookin great. I like your fabrication work. Its always nice when enthusiasts toss their own spin on RC projects. Keep it up.

Thanks, I like to improve designs and keep the weight low while making it look good.

Stock Axial wheel with both beadlocks, and all 12 screws weighs 36.5 grams. Just the wheel is almost 20g, rings (inner and outer) are just over 12.5g, and the 12 screws are just over 3.5g.

One assembled wheel, stock Flat Iron tire, beadlock rings, and all 12 screws weighs 4.2 ounces. Have to weigh the whole assembly later, this scale won't go high enough.

1/4" diameter solid lead fishing weight wire I used to weight stock wheels.

First wheel wrapped with lead, then two wraps electrical tape and a drop of CA to ensure the end stays put. I used good quality 3m tape because the cheap crap will get all sticky, gooey and just un-wrap itself when it gets hot...total waste of time. Use the good stuff, but tiny drop of CA just for insurance, never had a problem but you know.

Went crawling yesterday and it climbs better, but I lost some acceleration snap, top speed and battery run-time...naturally. Kinda liked it better without the weight. We'll see how it is on 3s, might take some weight out of the wheels by using 3/16" diameter solid lead wire instead. Slipper clutch kicked in a lot more than without the wheel weights.

Need second set of stock wheels and tires for testing.

 

[Natedog]

Weighed it again today and each complete wheel, tire, foam, beadlocks, and screws with lead wire weight is 6.3 oz, for an addition of 2.1 oz per wheel. Went crawling last Saturday afternoon and broke my first knuckle on the passenger side. Halfway through my second battery pack it snapped right at the second tie-rod mounting hole that nobody uses. Not surprised as they are the stock plastic knuckles and the side with tie-rod and draglink takes most of the steering load. Replaced it with RC4WD black anodized aluminum knuckle that I had for backup.

 

[Big Daddy]

Truck looks great. I may have to pirate a few ideas, the first being the tilt body. I hate the rear body pins where they are, if they were turned 90º it wouldn't be bad but getting my stubby fingers in there is annoying. I made some chain keepers so I don't drop them in the spare tire well anymore at least.

 

[Roadkill]

Natedog,

What's new on your truck?

 

[Natedog]

Truck looks great. I may have to pirate a few ideas, the first being the tilt body. I hate the rear body pins where they are, if they were turned 90º it wouldn't be bad but getting my stubby fingers in there is annoying. I made some chain keepers so I don't drop them in the spare tire well anymore at least.

Thanks and you're welcome to borrow from my build, that's why I like to share my mods. I get a lot of my ideas from thinking about it, but I get a lot from other people's builds too."thumbsup" 8)"thumbsup" Those rear body pins are in a very awkward spot and they tend to tear through the lexan after repeated abuse even with body washers. They are also slow to remove and then put the body back on after battery changes and maintenance in the field.

Natedog,

What's new on your truck?

Coming right up! :lmao::lmao:


One tire's worth of rubber:

Total of 22.5 grams of rubber trimmed from all four tires (just over 5.5g per tire) fills a shot glass almost to the top. I was mixin white russians that night while trimming...so the glass was handy and the pile of rubber looked about the same volume...lol.

Flat Iron trimmed:

and side view all trimmed up, I'll try to get some better daytime pics that aren't so dark.

Got my tire trimming ideas from userid: 66sprint6 as seen here "thumbsup" :

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321167

 

[Natedog]

Got my 3s lipos the other day and have enough Dean's plugs for all six of them, need to solder connectors on them this week.

Natedog,

What's new on your truck?

Bought more stock Honcho wheels and trying to decide what tires to run on them, going to have a couple sets of tires/wheels to swap out depending on terrain. I'd like to have about 1/4" taller but same width or close to it as the Flat Irons. Proline 1.9 TSLs look great but dangit same size as stock.

What do you like?

 

[Roadkill]

"I'd like to have about 1/4" taller but same width or close to it as the Flat Irons. Proline 1.9 TSLs look great but dangit same size as stock.

What do you like?" [/QUOTE]


Compare the two brands. I didn't do my homework before I bought mine.


RC4WD
Interco Super Swamper TSL/Bogger 1.9" tires
Outer Diameter: 4.7" (120mm)
Width: 1.6" (40mm)
Inner Diameter: 1.9" (48mm)
Advanced X3 Soft & Sticky Compound
Reinforced sidewall


Pro-Line
Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 1.9" tires in G8 compound
Height:4.30" (109mm)
Width:1.50" (38mm)

 

[Natedog]

"I'd like to have about 1/4" taller but same width or close to it as the Flat Irons. Proline 1.9 TSLs look great but dangit same size as stock.

What do you like?"

Compare the two brands. I didn't do my homework before I bought mine.


RC4WD
Interco Super Swamper TSL/Bogger 1.9" tires
Outer Diameter: 4.7" (120mm)
Width: 1.6" (40mm)
Inner Diameter: 1.9" (48mm)
Advanced X3 Soft & Sticky Compound
Reinforced sidewall


Pro-Line
Interco TSL SX Super Swamper 1.9" tires in G8 compound
Height:4.30" (109mm)
Width:1.50" (38mm)

Looking at both of them and teh new Pitbulls 1.9. What did you buy and how do you like em?

 

[Roadkill]

I have the pro-line TSL's. They are soft and seem to perform ok.

Can't compare them to the flatirons as the TSL's have weights and the flatirons do not.

I like the looks of the pitbulls and will probably buy some.


Just looked at the pro-lines TSL's and they look more like the RC4WD Roc Loc's.

 

[federally]

I like the truck. I have been seriously considering utting the front bumper as you did since it tends to hit every obstacle and prevent the tires from doing so. Was similarly afraid to cut tho because it's not something you can un do. After seeing how yours looks I'll be doing it soon as it looks great.

I also ned to do the hinge on the back. I believe it will solve my problem of the velcro'd on body coming off in roll overs. Is that just angled aluminum you cut to work or something more special?

 

[Roadkill]

Just thought I would bump you back to page one.

I got the Pit Bulls yesterday.

Where did you get the weight for your wheels? Walmart, Big 5, Joes Tackle Shop, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela's, that other one in Reno?

 

[Natedog]

Just thought I would bump you back to page one.

I got the Pit Bulls yesterday.

Where did you get the weight for your wheels? Walmart, Big 5, Joes Tackle Shop, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela's, that other one in Reno?

Thanks! 8)

Nice, they are on my list of possible tires...pic?

Wallyworld....walmart...lol. Any of those should have the lead wire weight for your wheels. Now that I'm running 3s lipo, I really like the weight and think it's just about the right amount for a 5 lb. scaler (a little bit over 5) when running more power. I though that I would have to gear down when I went from 2s to 3s, but it is great at 20/87! Mmmm....love to window shop at Cabela's or Bass Pro Shops!

I'll update more in a few minutes, gotta load my pics etc! "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

I like the truck. I have been seriously considering utting the front bumper as you did since it tends to hit every obstacle and prevent the tires from doing so. Was similarly afraid to cut tho because it's not something you can un do. After seeing how yours looks I'll be doing it soon as it looks great.

I also ned to do the hinge on the back. I believe it will solve my problem of the velcro'd on body coming off in roll overs. Is that just angled aluminum you cut to work or something more special?

Thanks! Cut the bumper like mine, you'll be glad you did, it still looks good imo and it performs much better getting in the way less.

Yes, I love this rear body mount it solves several problems all at once. Yes, just 1/16" thick x 1" wide aluminum angle from local hardware store, cut and drilled as needed.

 

[Natedog]

OOps! :ror: