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Its not to hard to drive just the switch back drift are a bit challenging. But it somthin to mess around with in the house and when I'm out about, it makes people stop and ask if its gas or electric. Lol I just give the the confused dog look and answer them.
for the price they are a steal.. i just jumped back in it with my kit and started building it.. its easy to build but i just took a long time to even focus on mine..
i've been more motivated lately because i've said to myself if i complete this kit i perhaps will maybe build a scx10 kit sometime after I'm done with this.
So this car has changed. It's running brushed now and it rwd. It will be gittin a new body either a gen 2 or gen 3 rx7 as well as a scale motor, lights, and what ever else I can think of. I will keep y'all posted as I go.
I've had a D3 for three years for some reason I kept track of my run times. Keep in mind it's not a alloy wagon just where necessary and a CF chassis but mostly stock running gear. The car is awesome to drive very controllable and hangs its tail end out there proudly in the corners. My running time total to date is 280 hours and the belts are original. Yeah at $125 probably the toughest and one of most fun RC car/trucks I own.
Note if your going to want to upgrade to any D3 alloy parts better not wait forever to order them the new D4 hits the market any day now. My guess is 3Racing will stop supporting its D3 alloy market and there's lots of counterfeit junk out there that fits sloppily so beware.
Must haves
One way front axle
1* rear axle uprights
The CF chassis package is worth it.
Not so much
The alloy steering isn't as tight as the stock plastic.
One thing I'll add mine runs best with a light 2.200 battery seems to drift easier and still runs for over an hour.
Thank man its a stock HPI body. My d3 came with locked front and rear difs. As for alloy stuff I'm not much into them, I rather git carbon fiber stuff or just go and buy me a Team Magic E4D MF Pro chassis.