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My First Sawback

neospirit

Rock Stacker
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
74
Location
US
I just got my first Sawback yesterday. I started the build. I am using Lucas Oil Red N Tacky grease for the metal gears in the axles. However, it seems thick to use on the plastic gears in the transmission. Is it ok to use it? I have always use Tamiya or Associated grease on plastic gears in the past.

IMG_1181_zpsrkmijcg0.jpg


IMG_1183_zps36uy12tl.jpg


IMG_1184_zpskjsdryxw.jpg
 
I use extra tacky grease on all gears. Most will fling off by the end of the first run and leave a nice coating behind.
 
I use Red and Tacky on steel gears (axles mostly) but no way on plastic gears - way too much drag even after a few runs. I have a lighter Penzoil tub I've used for years. Tamiya Ceramic is great as well.
 
I just used some black grease on the transmission gears. I did not use a lot, just a nice coat. I was trying to finished the rails when my wife reminded me about some stuff I need to do for the kids. I will take some progress pics tomorrow.
 
Congrats on your Sawback purchase! One of my all-time favorite rigs. Do yourself a favor and get the anti-wrap bars from GMade or make some yourself. The only issue I've had with my Sawback is bending leaf springs, but I beat on my trucks and don't always let off the throttle when it's bound up.

I don't use red and tacky on plastic gears. I either use Tamiya white grease or white lithium grease.
 
I am going to see if I have links I can use before I buy them. Does any one know how long the bars are from eye to eye?
 
I couldn't find the U-Joints for the drive shaft per the instruction. I found this instead.

IMG_1188_zpsxldffefi.jpg
 
There are no u-joints. These actually works better I think.

Here are all the components
IMG_1195_zpssdpghwh8.jpg


The pin with a hole goes in the square cube through the drive cup. The cube is metal.
IMG_1194_zpsvk8dhqbl.jpg


Then the thinner pin goes through the drive shaft, through the cube and other pin. They are secured with e-clips.
IMG_1196_zpszhjkdcem.jpg


I actually think this works much better. I already had the u-joints popped out in my G2.
 
Almost there. I am going to try the Traxxas shocks. They are a little long. If they work, I will rebuild them with stoppers inside.

IMG_1197_zpsghunx1y3.jpg


IMG_1198_zpse8xdhrdd.jpg
 
There are no u-joints. These actually works better I think.

Here are all the components
IMG_1195_zpssdpghwh8.jpg


The pin with a hole goes in the square cube through the drive cup. The cube is metal.
IMG_1194_zpsvk8dhqbl.jpg


Then the thinner pin goes through the drive shaft, through the cube and other pin. They are secured with e-clips.
IMG_1196_zpszhjkdcem.jpg


I actually think this works much better. I already had the u-joints popped out in my G2.

Oooh, I mistook your post as you were missing those pieces for the other end.
 
The instruction shows u-joints, not this setup. Is your 4LS comes with this setup as well?
 
I am waiting for the paint to dry, so I start to tinker with it. I took the springs off the Traxxas shocks. I may try the stock shocks first. I also made up some anti wrap bars with links I have sitting around.

IMG_1209_zpsajzv6wbc.jpg


Anti-wrap bars
IMG_1216_zpsutbwbbik.jpg


IMG_1217_zps2z2mkryj.jpg
 
All done.

Stock shocks and 2 leaves
IMG_1223_zpsnyryf6uy.jpg


DIY anti-wrap bars
IMG_1221_zpsinsebpfe.jpg


Red
IMG_1224_zpsd4cu6ylo.jpg


My son likes it with windshield down
IMG_1225_zpsmxtjg5yh.jpg


Plasti-dip chairs, steering wheel and shifter knob and base
IMG_1226_zpsm5tg3xjg.jpg


Articulation
IMG_1230_zpsdywfvke2.jpg


IMG_1231_zpsp5vxkvsf.jpg
 
While I was replacing the servo, I notice the rear is actually heavier. Has anyone try to put the battery up front? It doesn't seem it would be too hard to do.
 
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