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My capra "build"

Jefferson87

Newbie
Joined
Feb 7, 2015
Messages
13
Location
Magalia
Copied over from another forum.

Ive been into 1:1s for a long time, and got into rc a few years before axial came around. Build a steel frame crawler with revo straight axles way back when. Then had an ax10 and later an scx10. Got out of it for like 4 or 5 years until my wife got me this capra in December 2020 and holy crap has stuff changed I can't keep up.

I hadn't posted anything since if was just basically a stock capra with a few add ones like everyone else, but I've added some more stuff, so why not. :homer:

It originally was a dig capra. Added brass portal covers and 10% lower rear r&p, krawlers on some aluminum bead locks. Broke a rear housing, so obviously I had to add 4ws with the flysky 6ch. Found a cheap complete aluminum steer axle on Amazon. Ended up braking the C on it, bought an axial housing and swapped the aluminum 3rd, shafts and knuckles on. All those parts are shitty quality and I'll probably eventually phase them out.

At some point I tried a cheap 5 pole brushed motor that seemed exactly the same as the stock motor. Recently burnt that out, tried a Holmes Hobbies 5 pole CrawlMaster pro which was a $110 motor. It was marginally smoother at low speeds for the 20 mins it lasted. Sent that trash back, did some reading and came across lots of people recommending the hobby wing fusion pro.

Holy crap, what an upgrade. Like night and day from what I've driven. You can crawl so slow it's barely moving, but it will still have crazy torque because of the FOC system. It's so much more controllable on technical stuff it's nuts. Then when you need wheel speed, it's got lots. I also really like the intergraded esc. Less wires and stuff to mount.

One issue I missed when I picked it up is that it won't clear the stock capra rear link mount. You can sand it down to make it fit, but then it just snaps off first trip out. Then enter the Vader flat belly skid. Gives a bit more clearance, and uses aluminum link mounts that clear the fusion pro. At the same time you gain the ability to mount a fullsize dig servo.

I just installed the Sl3d tire inserts. They're 3d printed out of a rubber like material. They are supposed to be a lot more stable than foams, and also not effected by water. Have not tried these yet.

Next batch of mods is a fullsize dig servo, 40% overdrive portal gears (this might be too much with my underdrive rears, but I never noticed the 10%, so I went bigger 😆) and a 1/2" rear wheelbase strech. Most of these parts showed up today, or will be here next week.

Next thing I'm interested in a suck down winch. I think it would be a game changer on climbs and side hills. After that, I'd like to mess with the shocks, but maybe that's not necessary with the winch?

Got rid of the janky China steering that has a bent tie tod to clear the diff, but wouldn't stay in place for some stock stainless stuff. Couldn't find offset hiems for a reasonable price so I just put a slight bend in it and adjusted the hiems out a bit. Rolled it up for more clearance at the same time.

View attachment 906736

So I checked and the rear gears were 10% lower (went to 4.12s from 3.75s)

The portals are 1.9:1 stock and the gears I bought are 1.33

So 7.89s vs 4.99s 😆 or 53% different.

Definitely noticeable how much faster the front turn. Did not notice any downside like some people talk about. But also can't say I noticed a huge advantage where I was at.

The tire inserts did seem more stable.

Threw on the longer links. I was going to just make them with the old school all thread sleeved in 5/16 aluminum but I found vanquish builder links in titanium :grinpimp: about $12/pair depending on the length. Went with 124mm and 102mm which is 13mm(~1/2") longer than stock. Both ends are RH thead vs stock is RH/LH Fwiw, but I don't think it will matter.

View attachment 908624
View attachment 908627View attachment 908628

I thought I needed another drive shaft set to make a longer rear, but the stock rear is already the longest combo of parts. It seems like it has enough slip engagement as long as the male piece is centered. So I cut a pen spring in half and put 1 piece on either side.

View attachment 908625View attachment 908626

Shocks are obviously more laid down now. Going to see how it works, but I may try to use the existing hole in the chassis right behind the stock mount.

View attachment 908629View attachment 908630

It's like 12 7/8" wb now, not sure if I'll do the front or not. There is only about 3/8" unill the servo hits the front grill, but I may change the servo mount set up soon anyway.

I noticed the other day the normal sized servo horn wasn't maxing out the knuckles.

So I picked up 2 27mm horns.

View attachment 909942

Turns out 27mm is too much, but hole 2 is about 24mm and works perfect. There is a few companies making 24mm arms.

You can't see but the front arm clears the diff with basically no clearance. The rear wouldn't clear, so I put in some spares and now it clears by ~1/16". 2 didn't brand servos I guess?

View attachment 909941

Figured while I'm there, may as well grind the stops and see if I can get more angle.

Thought I got better before pics, but here they are anyway. Top is longer arm, no grinding. Bottom short arm.
View attachment 909939View attachment 909940

This is ground arms and putting a slight bend in the tie rod. Any more than this and the axle shaft hits the knuckle, I could clearance that, but I think they would really start binding at that point.

View attachment 909943

With that angle and the overdrive front, it damn near turns on its self. :smokin:

So first test drive I feel like the longer wb was counteracted by the shitty shock geometry. Was getting a lot of tq twist.

Steering was pretty nice.

I do think I'm going to back off on the over drive. Either less OD portal gears or maybe just the same underdrive gears on the front diff.

Moved both f&r shocks to a higher and more upright position.

The front was just moving and a longer screw. The rear I cut a little off the plastic and swapped the stock standoff balls to standard balls. Came out decentView attachment 910939View attachment 910940View attachment 910949

Moved the rear links down 2 holes also.

Only had it out once since the shocks were moved. Seems way more stable, but that long wb with less droop does seem to belly out much easier.
 
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