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My bomber kit build

BattleShrink

Newbie
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
26
Location
NY
Hey guys, this bomber kit version is my second hobby-grade RC, I started with an arrma senton 4x4 a couple months ago.

Building the kit was fun. I drove the kit stock for a while on a 21T brushed motor, 20 dollar amazon servo, CI double deuce firm foams, and 3s lipo, wasn't using a servo saver and stripped the servo gears in a few weeks.

Added a Holmes Hobbies ESC(had them solder all the connectors. awesome service), puller pro 3500kv brushless motor, SHV500 servo, vanquish motor mount and stage1 kit, and a kimbrough strong servo saver intended for nitro cars.

Then I broke two rod ends in the front lower links. Replaced with vanquish front lower titanium links. Added beef tubes to front axle.

Broke the rear driveshaft, replaced front and rear with supershafty/MIP. Added proline powerstroke slash shocks. Replaced the rest of the axial suspension link rod ends with traxxas rod ends, haven't broke any of those yet.

Had a lot more fun. Added a tiny little fire extinguisher and jack, painted the helmets and fuel cell lid.

I just had catastrophic failure of the servo saver.
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Also sprung a leak in the bottom of my front axle.
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But it's ok, I just got a box of vanquish parts. Going to put in an incision spool and fast eddy bearings while I'm in there.
4uDatax.jpg


Proline big hit servo saver and a losi servo horn are on the way now too.
 
I like the way you started out mostly stock and then fixed what broke....keep up the good work "thumbsup"
 
I have been through 4 servos up front. No servo saver, ever. The 4th servo has been going strong for a long time now, Savox SC-1268SG @6V and a heavy duty aluminum servo horn (screws to clamp on both sides of the servo gear, not just the side opposite the arm). I run 2.2's and Vanquish metal links as well.
 
Hehe, that's a lot of servos! I'm not racing or doing very technical crawling so I'd rather trade some steering feel for servo lifespan.

The big hit is overpriced at 40 bucks in my opinion. It turns the wheels with more authority in high traction surfaces than the kimbrough nitro version(8 bucks) I was using before, but feels the same at speed on dirt. It also does NOT come with the rod end and m3 long set screw. Good thing I'm at the point where I can say "Oh I just had some bits in the parts bin that fit." So if you hate money and are doing an even mix of crawling and bashing then I would recommend it. In any other situation you would probably be better off with either the kimbrough nitro version or no servo saver at all.
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At first I switched out the vanquish axle into the front, but the beef tubes didn't fit in. Worse performance overall with the lighter front axle, it was fishtailing all over the place going fast, probably lack of front wheel traction. Switched the back and front axles, put beef tubes back in the front, and it's doing good again. Also took out the fuel cell for painting, switched the spare tire around to see how it handled. It doesn't change anything with how I drive so I'm gonna put the fuel cell back in after I paint it.
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And decal'd up and installed new body panels. I drink a lot of this stuff :) Can't wait to go ding it up.
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New SSD beadlocks, Proline Hyrax tires, and Proline dual stage foams. Much better traction on every surface. I probably do need the strength of the big hit servo saver with these beefy wheels/tires.


VzchvMu.jpg
 
Man, those are some of the best-looking wheels out there...

And paired with the awesome Hyraxes - betcha yer rig is kickin' some tail! :twisted:
 
I’m really digging that Walker Evans wheel design in black, toss up some more pics of them when you can. I’m having a hard decision between SSD and Vanquish wheels but seeing this wheel on a Bomber may have sealed the deal.

Here are the real wheels on Bomber Fabrications website.
 
Cool, I didn't know these wheels were real. You also made me just realize the kit wheels are the same too, haha. My spare still works!

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I've been thinking that an unlocked front diff would be better for trail bashing, so I bought an SMT10 diff to try out.

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I had to switch the factory ring gear with the one from my bomber, otherwise seems to be a direct fit. I kept the factory grease for now, didn't want to spend too much time in case the puller pro just explodes it. If it survives a couple of trail runs I'll check on it and switch out the grease hehe. After install, the front wheels spin smoothly in opposite directions manually so hopefully it will be ok.
 
I kind of like the open front diff for trail running, but it definitely can't crawl anymore. The steering is just better, it's easier to keep in the center of the trail and have it going where I want it to go. After the run, front diff is still smooth if I spin it by hand and no crunchy noises so I guess that's good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgokSj_sOBs

Probably going to try underdrive gears in the rear after a few more runs.
 
I'm not sure how underdriving the rear with an open front diff is going to work out. I think it could make the vehicle pull erratically based on which front tire has grip.
 
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