Mr.JayDeeM's Jeep Cherokee build.

[xtreme4x2]

Nice! I'm in the middle of repairing my AX10. Your pictures helped me figure out the stock location for the ESC and reciever. Next up is to move the servo back in the middle and the battery back in the stock location.

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

here's how it stands right now. Nothing new yet.

 

[meatmonkey]

With the lower powered motors used in crawlers you don't need a huge MAH battery. I get over an hour of runtime with a 35T motor and 2200 mah packs. I can barely squeeze one of my 5000mah packs in, but it makes the truck top heavy and cumbersome.

I believe your better off to run smaller, lighter packs and have multiples than to have one huge heavy battery. Plus the smaller packs are cheaper, and if you kill a battery you can keep on playing with the other.

You seem to be pretty handy at making parts, so you should make a tie bar that goes from the upper kingpin bolt to the top of the bolt for the tie rod and drag link. Only needs to be a thin flat plate with two 3mm holes and some washers to get it sitting level. It will take the flex out of the plastic knuckles and make them last much longer. Just leave the upper kingpin bolt lightly snugged so the tie bar can rotate freely with the knuckle.

There's nothing inherently wrong with how your shocks are mounted. It's how the SCX is stock. By mounting the shocks further out you trade flex for stability. I tried my rears like you have them, and now have them outside the tabs on the axle and outside the frame. Cuts rear flex in half, but also cuts down on torque twist and adds stability.

Keep the action pics coming. Theres no such thing as too many pics of a Jeep being abused.

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

Haha, I know I havent updated ina while. So much have been changed since then. It sucks it not a Jeep anymore. I changed my path with this rig. It now have a full tube chassis it leaning more towards to comp use..

Heres some pics for now.

 

[DAKK]

Looking good! Now change out those Tamiya connectors!

 

[freakofnature]

x2 on the connectors get deans plugs

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

How would I do that? I would like to chanfed them out.

 

[RootBreaker]

^^^ Deans plugs have a better connection to them and work better.. you just cut off your old one... solder the deans on..

this is how i got mine from a previous owner.. he left the tamiya plug on as his charger had that connector...
the red one is the deans plug...now the tamiya plug is gone...


AxialScorpionRTR (2 of 7) by TeleFragger / RootBreaker, on Flickr

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

does that explains why my rig twitch sometimes bec of that connector?

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

Added body panels and my work logo..

 

[ManxCrawler]

Big tip here...when you cut the tamiya conns off, cut one wire at a time because if you cut them both with a pair of pliers at the same time you'll short your battery pack!

 

[Mr.JayDeeM]

Big tip here...when you cut the tamiya conns off, cut one wire at a time because if you cut them both with a pair of pliers at the same time you'll short your battery pack!

Thanks!