Minor Threats Ground Haug Build

[minor_threat]

Thought I'd post the tvp bodiless chassis build as my first build thread so here it goes.

After not liking some of the other bodiless chassis out on the market I called my friend with a cnc and sent over some drawings and went from there.

Once I got the chassis back, I tore down the DMG chassis and found some time to get panels and make a new skid for this Ground Haug chassis.

I made the skid so I could get a narrower lower angle and not hit the motor like on the str ones. I kept the width of the tranny plate stock at 3+".

After getting the tranny bolted up on the beta version of this chassis I tuned the shocks which were at that time the stock axial shocks drooped with the dampers on the outside.

I like how I put the holes for the uppers, closer to the insides of the chassis but in doing that I had to get some 65mm uppers and I also used a 6x6 spacer on the rear upper where it mounts to the axle since I don't want to go with a 4-way.

I did play around with the lowers and tried using Revo fronts and 106mm rears on the lowers. works fine. I had a ground clearance of 2.5" which was okay, the axial droop was adding to that when needed which was great. I adjusted the shock position a couple times as I designed this chassis to allow for a non-contact area with the shocks and the chassis. You could get sick amounts of articulation if you wanted too but I'm happy with 45*. I also had lower shocks as this was designed for 4" and so I placed the shocks closer inboard - a lower angle in relation to the lower rods.

all in all, i liked the response I was getting on both large boulders and small indoor course rocks, I was climbing at 64* up gunnars angle board with not front tire lift at all. at this time I had stock tires and rims, fronts weighed 8oz and the rears were 4oz. stock steering etc.

I sent over changes to the shape, took out holes and a swoosh and have my final chassis that I drove for the first time today at the HobbyTown Concord - CVRC comp and placed 3rd...only because I forgot to NOT pick up the rig...ugh...twice i did that...but still, 3rd is great for a first run.

I had to tear down the beta, make a new delrin base plate - still stock width and get the traxxas pede rears cut, drilled and mounted the cap to the axial shock ends, ad oil -100 wt and did tlc medium internal droop. have ricky at HT solder the motor for me, he's a pro IMO, then drive back, get this thing ready...ugh...the night before the comp I was finally laying mask down to paint the logo and flames, finish my last mayhem beadloc with proline 5.5" double foams and get some sleep.

I used 98's up front and 106's on the rear for the lowers. 65's on both F>R uppers, a 6x6 on the axle end of the uppers at the rear. my plates bring in the lowers 1" under the tranny. I have 6x6's on the uppers where they meet the chassis. I designed the chassis to set more forward and did the plate to flip the tranny.

after the first run where I wasn't getting any chance at keeping my front end down on the 60* course, i moved the rears inward a few holes and still kept my wb at 12.5 as per the judge and giving me a lower ride height of 2.5 instead of the 3" i had at the start. after that I took the next two courses with flyin' colors.

for mounting the shock towers I used 7x55mm and 7x10s. you could change with of course and not effect anything. the shocks will never touch the chassis.

I have tekin fxr and a 55t hand wound motor, 2.0 spektrum and run nihm saddles on the front. a cheap hitec 645 servo and rovers on mayhem's. for the panels i used 1/8" lexan on left over flm rods but that will change as i'm making my own style of rods and all the screws, plate and rod come as a kit thnx to racersedgemachine.com

I was going to work with ted from dark soul on this as his laser is faster and cheaper then cnc but after sending him the drawings we both got busy. the guys from rem did a great job at banging this out in a day. I think they're gearing up to sell these.

here are pics:

I don't have any pics of the comp as the guy taking pictures didn't get everyone's rig. I'm not selling this as it's still in the patent process and I don't have gold star but someday shortly...so don't ask.

i do have a standard tvp of this chassis too so I can run my lexan bodies but this version is my fav.

parts list:

custom tvp bodiless chassis
tekin fxr esc and 55t moto
2.0 spektrum rx/tx
hitec 635 servo
8 cell nimh saddle pack
6x65 uppers with 6x6 spaces at chassis
6x6 spacer at rear axle
6x106 lowers at rear
Stock lowers at front
m3x35 screws for tranny plate
m3x15 screws for shock mounts
m3x10 screw for upper rods to chassis
m3x5 screws for body panels
Mayhem machine finish 7's with grinders.
17 - .24oz leads in front - nothing in rear (they're stock at 4.25oz)
HT Rovers
Pro-line 5.5" double foams
Traxxas pede/rusty/maxx shocks with axial ends on caps, 100 wt oil and drooped.

12.5WB, 2.5-3.0 belly clearance, front atriculation 5.25", rear 6.25" at current shock settings.

There you go. my build thread. not much left to do except change the steering rods since I got one now (thnx HT) and get my mayhem's shinier then Mikes/cvrc.
6x98 lowers at front

 

[minor_threat]

I did switch to running 70wt oil and a two hole flow in the traxxas shocks. responds a lot better then with 100wt.

 

[DeweyCJ5]

looks good "thumbsup"

 

[gunnar]

I do admit that chassis performed very well in testing and at the comp. Sorry Deven, I pulled the vid from my photobucket album cuz you wanted it secret. I'll fix it, but will have to do this later tonite cuz the run video is in my computer at home, so when I get there I'll put it back up for ya. This is a vid of his beta chassis going up the ramp, I should have got closer to the angle guage, but it was between 62 and 63 degrees:

 

[minor_threat]

Thanks Dewey! and thnx Scott to for re posting it. the locals and i kept this on the down low until it was a final cut and the comp was over.
Here's a youtube video. i was waiting a bit too long to go and sort of mashed Ted/ darksouls mrc...oops:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWGgJJ--QVQ

 

[BIG]

looks good and how may *'s was that im blind lol

 

[gunnar]

As I said, I should have gotten the camera closer to the guage. The way the guage reads, 60 degrees is marked with a large line and the number, then there is one short line, and two slightly longer ones which is 62 and 63 degrees. The angle shown is just on the 63 degree line. The angle guage is made by Empire, and is in the "level" part of the tool section at Home Depot, about 9 dollars.

 

[minor_threat]

on the HD version of this video, you can read it pretty good. hope to get the whole video up.

 

[otis683]

looking good minor.
im liking the look of the new chassis. i like decal paint on the body pannels.
ur rig is lookin good. nice 63 degree climb. the thursday i bought my chassis i was doin 63 1/2 - 64 degrees crazyyyy.

 

[minor_threat]

new steering rod

I added the steering rod that i won at the local comp bu using 2 6x2 spacers above the caster arms and then placed the bent steering arm. i like it. not what I'd though it would be but works pretty good. seems to give me a little more turning but not sure.

I also used a 6x6 too, so I could get the rod higher up on the axle. as it is, it set's right in front of the servo horn as you can see.

some pics from tonights test run:

This rig now cleans a lot of areas that were hard with the stock chassis and a bit tight with the dmg i have. it's also the tires, rims too, the whole thing is set up just right.

 

[gunnar]

There might be a better way to set that steering link up so it doesn't stick out so much. Maybe you have tried, but I would need it in front of me to see if the clearances are right.

 

[minor_threat]

right on Gunnar. I was thinking of flipping my servo and doing what you and mike did but it's french to me. when ever you're around, i'd be gratefull to have you input on it, steering isn't my thing.

 

[mann0mann]

What if you brought it into the first hole on the knuckle?

That would bring it in closer, but would it clear your servo arm? as it cycled through its motion?

That's the first time I've seen that High Clearance link look decent. It would look even better if you get it tucked in more.

 

[fperez0209]

nice looking chassis, maybe with a few changes could be made to work with the rockforce (hint hint) good luck with it"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

 

[gunnar]

How about running the drag link UNDER the tie rod, and angle the bent tie rod up closer to the servo, but not hitting it. That was what I wanted to check.

 

[minor_threat]

nice looking chassis, maybe with a few changes could be made to work with the rockforce (hint hint) good luck with it"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

what's rockforce? can you explain that? do you mean what I think you mean; staying on the rocks? if so, that was simple, just moved the shocks back...but if not, lmk.

 

[minor_threat]

How about running the drag link UNDER the tie rod, and angle the bent tie rod up closer to the servo, but not hitting it. That was what I wanted to check.

do you mean go with a straight rod instead of bent and then get the servo's rod to set at an angle?

 

[mann0mann]

what's rockforce? can you explain that? do you mean what I think you mean; staying on the rocks? if so, that was simple, just moved the shocks back...but if not, lmk.

Kyosho Rock Force

 

[monkeyracer]

I still can't tell, but do you have side plates? or just the chassis plates? Becuase I'm pretty sure they are required for comps, at least they are for national comps. Not that it would be a big deal to add some though. Also, it doesn't look like the roof is 1" higher than the hood line, but it's hard to tell from the pics.

I thought these were also supposed to resemble a 1:1 rig...

Not trying to dog the design, I'm just trying to share my knowledge from my Bodiless Chassis build. (Which I'm sure you remember)

3rd place in the first run seems pretty good without getting some trial and error worked out of it, and 63 degree climb, that's good too.

Last suggestion, I'd put the steering link right on the arms, with no spacers, I think that's how it was designed to work, and will probably give you the best performance.

 

[minor_threat]

What if you brought it into the first hole on the knuckle?

That would bring it in closer, but would it clear your servo arm? as it cycled through its motion?

That's the first time I've seen that High Clearance link look decent. It would look even better if you get it tucked in more.

Thanks!
yeah i didn't think of that as I thought it would hit the batts. but you're right - it works!! sweet! THnx again...and I didn't even have to email you about it, ...LOL.

Do you think I should flip the servo and set it up sort of like yours? servo arm reaching to the right at an angle?

thnxagain mann0