This was TheScaleSnail's idea so I cant take credit. He hit me up asking how to acomplish having the ESCs low voltage cutoff triger the hazard lights which is a clever idea.
Initially I wasnt sure how to do it but my brother in law J-rc had a great idea to use a off the shelf Lipo Alarm like this: Gear Head RC LiPo Alarm 2S - 4S
Tap into the piezo speaker as it already has a flasher circuit and power the lights off of it. The problem with most lipo alarms is that most kick in at 3.3v which is lower than we wanted to go and they aren't adjustable.
Then I thought of HeyOk Performance, Al can make just about anything for RC so we hit him up and in no time at all he had a prototype ready. Thanks again Al you rock! He sent over a short video of the prototype:
We also asked if he could incorporate a potentiometer (or pot) so we can dial in what volatge triggers the lights. I'd like mine to come on somewhere around 3.55v-3.65v so the rig still has a tiny bit of run time left.
It will require LEDs that run on 3v and whatever lights you use probably wont function at other times (like for running lights) at least thats what I assume. Although I bet Al or someone could solve that too (diodes maybe?).
I dont know if this will be listed up for sale at HeyOk Performance but I bet if you reached out Al would be happy to make more.
Initially I wasnt sure how to do it but my brother in law J-rc had a great idea to use a off the shelf Lipo Alarm like this: Gear Head RC LiPo Alarm 2S - 4S
Tap into the piezo speaker as it already has a flasher circuit and power the lights off of it. The problem with most lipo alarms is that most kick in at 3.3v which is lower than we wanted to go and they aren't adjustable.
Then I thought of HeyOk Performance, Al can make just about anything for RC so we hit him up and in no time at all he had a prototype ready. Thanks again Al you rock! He sent over a short video of the prototype:
We also asked if he could incorporate a potentiometer (or pot) so we can dial in what volatge triggers the lights. I'd like mine to come on somewhere around 3.55v-3.65v so the rig still has a tiny bit of run time left.
It will require LEDs that run on 3v and whatever lights you use probably wont function at other times (like for running lights) at least thats what I assume. Although I bet Al or someone could solve that too (diodes maybe?).
I dont know if this will be listed up for sale at HeyOk Performance but I bet if you reached out Al would be happy to make more.
