Lower the TF2?

[Reflektr]

This may sound ridiculous, but if the motor is hooked up to the esc - even with no battery hooked up or power on - There will be more resistance than with the motor not hooked up to anything. Not that this is what's going on, but it's an important tid-bit...

 

[new2rocks]

This may sound ridiculous, but if the motor is hooked up to the esc - even with no battery hooked up or power on - There will be more resistance than with the motor not hooked up to anything. Not that this is what's going on, but it's an important tid-bit...

Fair enough - I think in some ESCs, there are capacitors that can energize the motor enough to give it a drag brake. Forgot about that one.


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[Ghost Koi]

Hmm.... so it looks like the motor works independently then and all of the gears turn/move freely when not connected. Yet, the wheels still lock up when everything is connected. What do you guys think I could take a look at next? I'm starting to think I may just need to head over to my local Hobby Store... that or start buying more parts!

 

[fr8cture]

does it spin with the wheels off?

 

[Ghost Koi]

does it spin with the wheels off?

Each individual component spins freely when it is disconnected but when connected, everything seems to be locked up.

 

[fr8cture]

Each individual component spins freely when it is disconnected but when connected, everything seems to be locked up.

When the wheels are connected? If so some of the screws on the wheels are loose locking up the axles. I had that issue. I also switched back to the thicker hexs for that reason.

 

[Dornbox]

With the motor connected your drivetrain will not spun freely for the reasons mentioned above. Have you tried driving it?


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[Reflektr]

We may be missing out on an important piece of the puzzle here... I may not have read something, but did you get a rtr, or build the kit?

 

[littletoyboy]

Check your wheels I noticed the hubs on my ssd wheels are slightly rubbing the axle housing on my tf2

 

[fr8cture]

Yeah stock wheels need the thick hexs not the thin ones if you have the kit...

 

[Ghost Koi]

With the motor connected your drivetrain will not spun freely for the reasons mentioned above. Have you tried driving it?


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I've tried driving it but had some difficulty with the Tamiya connector. I'll try tomorrow after replacing it with a Deans.

Here is a video that might give some insight into the problem....

https://youtu.be/mProOWNQsSA

 

[fr8cture]

Are you using the correct screws? Maybe a screw is hitting a gear?

If its spinning freely with the motor removed then the motor is the issue for sure. Is it a new motor? If its used it might have locked up? or maybe just a bad motor that got through QC.

 

[Ghost Koi]

Are you using the correct screws? Maybe a screw is hitting a gear?

If its spinning freely with the motor removed then the motor is the issue for sure. Is it a new motor? If its used it might have locked up? or maybe just a bad motor that got through QC.

Yeah, that was what I was wondering. The motor turned while disconnected but it felt like it was hitting something (i.e. there were points of low resistant where I could "wobble" the gear -moving it back and forth a little- but then it required force to move it past a certain point).... the movement felt choppy and not smooth like the gears. Does that make sense?

Sorry! It is difficult to explain.

 

[new2rocks]

From your video, I don't see anything wrong. When the motor is connected to the spur, the spur won't spin freely because the motor's magnets provide resistance (even if the motor is not connected to the ESC). And because of the gear ratios, it's very difficult to spin everything from just the driveshafts with the motor connected. I'd suggest reassembling everything and powering it up to see if it works. My $1 bet is that it will be fine.

 

[fr8cture]

Still seems odd to me. You should be able to spin it from the wheels with the motor installed. Only time I've seen that much resistance is a castle 2200kv 1/8th motor.

 

[Ghost Koi]

From your video, I don't see anything wrong. When the motor is connected to the spur, the spur won't spin freely because the motor's magnets provide resistance (even if the motor is not connected to the ESC). And because of the gear ratios, it's very difficult to spin everything from just the driveshafts with the motor connected. I'd suggest reassembling everything and powering it up to see if it works. My $1 bet is that it will be fine.

I guess the question then is... just looking at your TF2 (or anyones for that matter), do the wheels spin (can they spin?) while the battery is disconnected?

Thanks everyone for the great help!!!

 

[Reflektr]

On my Gelande 2 and on my Axial-based rig, I'm running the Holmes BRXL with a brushed 55t Torquemaster... And with everything hooked up with the exception of the battery, there is a pretty good amount of resistance. Like you can't push it across the floor without it bogging down and making a groaning whine and thinking you're going to hurt something. You gotta think, the better the motor, the better the magnets. And once it's hooked up to your esc, there's juice there whether it's plugged into a battery or not - which means more resistance... Along with your transmission, and axles... You get the picture.

Oh, and Fr8cture has a pretty good point... Yota axles are infamous for binding with different hub and wheel combos. My first set of Yotas would not work with the old-style 1.9 pin-mount Steelies without binding. Food for thought!

 

[new2rocks]

Since the axles spin freely with wheels mounted on their own, it doesn't look like the wheels have anything to do with it. The difficulty spinning one wheel from a partially connected axle (not fully mounted) doesn't seem unusual at all for the reasons Reflektr pointed out. With everything connected, it's completely normal to have to work hard to spin from the wheel, especially trying to spin from one axle only. I can't imagine it would be possible to spin everything from the driveshaft by hand because there's less even leverage there than at the wheel. So I've still got $1 on the table that nothing's wrong.

 

[Natedog]

As most people have advised above! Assemble everything properly wth all screws tightened and try to turn the wheels same way. If it seems kinda stiff, remove motor completely and try again. BTW, too long motor screws could cause problems if they are hitting/rubbing on the armature.

 

[Ghost Koi]

Sounds like it should be fine... I'll confirm later once I replace the Tamiya plug with Deans.

Now, there seems to be another slight problem. I hooked everything back up and screwed in the shocks and noticed that the chassis is no longer sitting parallel to the ground. I took a fewe pictures but it is a little difficult to see.

For what it is worth, I may have mixed up the leaf springs when I was reattaching them but they all looked the same. Could that be a problem? Why else might it not be sitting evenly.

As a note- I never fully tightened down the screws holding together the shackles and leafs.

It is most pronounced in the front...

A little more difficult to see from the back.

Here is where the leaf springs looked a little "out of wack." This may be from accidentally mixing them up while reattaching them?

Thanks for the help everyone! Sorry I've been posting so many "problems"...