greengoblin
Rock Crawler
Working on the Rock Rey to Baja conversion.
Put in some test hits lol
Put in some test hits lol
-
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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
Kevin Hill
Newbie
Can't desided on buying the rock rey or just going ahead and making the upgrades to the yeti. Any thoughts on this would help. Only seen videos on the rock rey. Thanks
not-required
Newbie
I never had a yeti but I love my rock rey. Held up to so much abuse. I love it so much I want to get a baja rey now.
greengoblin
Rock Crawler
Installed
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
I have a RR and a Yeti.
Yeti on 3S with the stock gearing and 3150kv motor is exactly the same speed as the RR on 2S. The RR zooms past on 3S.
The RR totally stock seems to be a tank. Pinion bearings and diff is solid right out of the gate due to the different gearing and motor kv and straight cut gears; also the front universals. I bought mine the day it was released and it's had hours and hours of bashing and trailing. Handles good for the size and tyre softness and has good power on 2S. I have 3S lipos and basically never run it on 3S as it's just not needed. Loads of fun on 2S and it handles everything the Yeti can with WAY less chassis slap and overall smoothness.
The Yeti with all the beef up stuff is definitely reliable but let's be brutally honest, that reliability costs 60% on top of the RTR Yeti to do anything the RR can do without overheating or ripping apart. So it's 50% more expensive than the RR.
The RR doesn't have a 2sp but IMPO they are hopeless crawlers and I'd suggest a Bomber instead.
I really like the Yeti and have worked on it a lot but I haven't even touched the RR apart from greasing it, tightening a couple of screws they needed half a turn, regluing a torn tyre and installing a metal servo horn.
Edit:
Yeti tore up the front bevel gears at a BMX track today on smooth small grained loose gravel...RR was jumping 6' in the air and being bashed by my 7yo. Just keeps trucking without issue.
RR has a load more steering angle than the Yeti so it's far easier to spin than a Yeti that you steer basically on the throttle. I wish I had the ability to turn down the end points on the RR controller at a track but regardless it's faster than the Yeti if your right on top of it; otherwise for a 7yo you can just drive the Yeti wide open with more ease. With the end points the same as the Yeti it'll likely be just as easy to drive and it'll have more grip and top end.
Yeti on 3S with the stock gearing and 3150kv motor is exactly the same speed as the RR on 2S. The RR zooms past on 3S.
The RR totally stock seems to be a tank. Pinion bearings and diff is solid right out of the gate due to the different gearing and motor kv and straight cut gears; also the front universals. I bought mine the day it was released and it's had hours and hours of bashing and trailing. Handles good for the size and tyre softness and has good power on 2S. I have 3S lipos and basically never run it on 3S as it's just not needed. Loads of fun on 2S and it handles everything the Yeti can with WAY less chassis slap and overall smoothness.
The Yeti with all the beef up stuff is definitely reliable but let's be brutally honest, that reliability costs 60% on top of the RTR Yeti to do anything the RR can do without overheating or ripping apart. So it's 50% more expensive than the RR.
The RR doesn't have a 2sp but IMPO they are hopeless crawlers and I'd suggest a Bomber instead.
I really like the Yeti and have worked on it a lot but I haven't even touched the RR apart from greasing it, tightening a couple of screws they needed half a turn, regluing a torn tyre and installing a metal servo horn.
Edit:
Yeti tore up the front bevel gears at a BMX track today on smooth small grained loose gravel...RR was jumping 6' in the air and being bashed by my 7yo. Just keeps trucking without issue.
RR has a load more steering angle than the Yeti so it's far easier to spin than a Yeti that you steer basically on the throttle. I wish I had the ability to turn down the end points on the RR controller at a track but regardless it's faster than the Yeti if your right on top of it; otherwise for a 7yo you can just drive the Yeti wide open with more ease. With the end points the same as the Yeti it'll likely be just as easy to drive and it'll have more grip and top end.
Last edited:
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Green, how's the sticker on the skid holding up? Does it slide better on stuff now?
greengoblin
Rock Crawler
Haven't been to the track. Busy with work and projects.
greengoblin
Rock Crawler
I did get this in to day so the RR to BR just got its last patinstalled.
fyrstormer
RCC Addict
I almost think a MOA setup would be better for a RWD trophy truck -- no torque-twist to deal with, and a weight balance more suitable to RWD. It would be less scale-accurate though.
big1717
Rock Stacker
not-required
Newbie
Just placed my order.
Black and clear are available.
My baja rey with aluminum a-arms,bell crank "servo saver", servo horn, turnbuckle, front spindles and rear upper track rods. I also upgraded the servo to a savox servo. I upgraded knew at a time because of bashing and having fun and after awhile things started to break/bend but with the upgrades this thing rips and is solid! Love the Baja rey. It is also my first rc car and im pretty impressed with it!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
mewalsh100
I wanna be Dave
Losi lightened hex adapters
Is anyone running the optional Losi lightened hex adapters? (These are the units without the disc rotors) Just wondering if these narrow up the track even a little bit? I've got a set of wheels that would be perfect but they extend about a 1/16" of an inch beyond the fenders on both sides = fender rub. If the width of the disc comes out of the equation and is not compensated for in the lightened units, I think it would get me right where I need to be.
Is anyone running the optional Losi lightened hex adapters? (These are the units without the disc rotors) Just wondering if these narrow up the track even a little bit? I've got a set of wheels that would be perfect but they extend about a 1/16" of an inch beyond the fenders on both sides = fender rub. If the width of the disc comes out of the equation and is not compensated for in the lightened units, I think it would get me right where I need to be.
TheLetterJ
RCC Addict
Wah, wah.
Front gears held up much longer this time around with the new housing superglued together at the seam... but they finally stripped out. Pinion bearings aren't loose in the housing this time, I'm blaming the flex of the housing for letting the gear mesh open up, same as the rear did. I'm just going to pull the front driveshaft (or maybe not) and run it 2wd for awhile. The rear axle is still hanging tuff with the original gears and MC 3rd (still using the same supplied 11mm pinion bearings) Hopefully somebody is working on a new front housing, I'm not holding my breath, but I'll wait for now.
Wasn't somebody putting the Rock Rey ring and pinions into their Baja Rey? How did that work out?
I've been running the ebay kmc/general red labels for quite a few runs now and they definitely are a harder rubber than the stock tires. They don't hook up very well on hard terrain/asphalt. The benefit there is that I can setup for a turn with a slide much easier now instead of tumbling. The tread pattern has larger voids, so they actually work a bit better in soft/loose terrain. The offset is a little greater, the tires are a bit wider, and the overall height is a bit shorter than stock, which all contribute to better stability. You'll need to grind about a 2mm deep groove in the ribbing of the wheels if you want to keep your fake calipers in place. At the end of the day, they are just mediocre, but I'd buy them again for $20 for 4 tires and 4 wheels. I should probably order another set soon since I'm sure to finish these off in short order being 2wd.
Front gears held up much longer this time around with the new housing superglued together at the seam... but they finally stripped out. Pinion bearings aren't loose in the housing this time, I'm blaming the flex of the housing for letting the gear mesh open up, same as the rear did. I'm just going to pull the front driveshaft (or maybe not) and run it 2wd for awhile. The rear axle is still hanging tuff with the original gears and MC 3rd (still using the same supplied 11mm pinion bearings) Hopefully somebody is working on a new front housing, I'm not holding my breath, but I'll wait for now.
Wasn't somebody putting the Rock Rey ring and pinions into their Baja Rey? How did that work out?
I've been running the ebay kmc/general red labels for quite a few runs now and they definitely are a harder rubber than the stock tires. They don't hook up very well on hard terrain/asphalt. The benefit there is that I can setup for a turn with a slide much easier now instead of tumbling. The tread pattern has larger voids, so they actually work a bit better in soft/loose terrain. The offset is a little greater, the tires are a bit wider, and the overall height is a bit shorter than stock, which all contribute to better stability. You'll need to grind about a 2mm deep groove in the ribbing of the wheels if you want to keep your fake calipers in place. At the end of the day, they are just mediocre, but I'd buy them again for $20 for 4 tires and 4 wheels. I should probably order another set soon since I'm sure to finish these off in short order being 2wd.