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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

@cm9000.

Im running 3 trucks all still on stock bodies.
1 blue truck was used. Has stock bearings ticking time bomb. Truck 2 used to us is red truck has had complete rearend replaced do to dammage from dearing failure. Truck 3 my truck new replaced all bearings. Each truck very on bearing. The trucks almost all was drop the inside bearing.
 
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Awesome SSD!

I just want a decently tough truck so a rock solid axle, diff and reliable bearings will be fantastic. Hope they put out an OS bearing update which will handle long term 3S usage.

The RR seems very solid overall so I doubt it honestly needs too much. Maybe a bearing tweak for the front diff too could be all it likely needs.

A bit of bling might be ok but the plastic stuff after hours and hours of driving seems seriously solid. Not a single screw was loose.

I wonder if it is worth running bead locks or just glueing tyres as they come apart? The tyres and wheels seem fine to me saying that.

Has anyone bent an axle?

When I greased my rear diff and spun the wheels I got some minor but still noticeable movement in the axle and inner axle bearing. I'm not sure how bad it is to keep running it like this or even if it's to be expected with RC trucks being jumped and bashed around. The axles look pretty thick internally. My bearings felt very smooth and no grittiness in the small pinion bearing or sides. I felt that the pinion was meshing ok with no slop or noise and no wear internally. I don't think it needs a shim atm. Mine had a bit of grease already from the factory though none in the middle diff. Haven't got around to the front yet as that looks like a sizeable disassembly of the front end.

How have you tightened the internal dogbone cup under the gearbox?

There doesn't seem to be any room to get a 2mm driver in to tighten up the long grubscrew pin without unscrewing the ESC from what I could see (I couldn't even see the screw) and they are the things that unscrew the most. Back one was already a touch loose.
 
I get my baja rey tomorrow I'm going to order the rock rey straight cut ring and pinion preemptively.
 
I'm curious to see how that works out Reno. A few people have said that their Twin Hammers (built up, so likely as heavy as the Rey) had no gear/diff issues on 3s even though they use the same diff carrier as the Rey, and they also use a bevel cut gear like the Rock Rey. Kinda apples to oranges, but the cut of the gear might make a difference? If nothing else, the lower gearing should take a little load off of the pinion and smooth out part throttle start up.
 
Has anyone tried running King 120MM shocks out back? I've got a set laying around from a crawler. I was thinking about throwing them on tonight. Was curious to see if anyone had and if so, what weight oil they were running, amount of pre-load, etc.
 
So try them and report how they worked out. Kings are eye candy shocks with no added value over a cheap set of stock shocks.
 
The King's would certainly look the part, and I won't fault you for that, but I don't think you'd gain any performance. Isn't the stock rear 125mm?

I just got back from another run. It's great to have a nice spot that is a short enough walk that my gimp self can get to it. I immediately noticed the right rear wheel wasn't driving, but the wheel nut was still snug. I didn't notice anything funny at the end of yesterday's run. Luckily it was just a stripped out wheel and the Baja Rey carries a spare! I suppose I should start wheel shopping soon, glue on's work fine for me so I might just get the Associated KMC's for like $8 a pair. Tires on the other hand don't look like they'll be so cheap, unless I take my chances with the ebay General Grabbers for $20 a set (which come with plastic KMC wheels) thoughts?
 
I think they use an SCTE offset? If that's accurate I would go with DE Borrego wheels. Been using them for a long time on my SCt410 without stripping a hex.
 
I got a tear in the sidewall of my Rock Rey tyre tonight.

It's a 2.2" rim I gather and a 5.75" tyre height.

Any suggestions?

The sidewall seems very thin compared to the Axial tyres I recently mounted for the Yeti.

I can buy a couple of original tyres and rims already mounted (they are at least available) but would prefer a couple of thicker/better/cheaper tyres if possible.

Any issues continuing to run the torn tyre in the interim ('til a spare arrives)? It's like a V shaped tear about 13mm wide and doesn't go to the side of the rim or to the tread etc. I'd glue it but doubt it'll hold.

I CA'd it anyway; hopefully it may hold up going on what I looked up.
 
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Rc4wd may have some thicker options but I doubt t they will be better or cheaper. The RR used a crawler/rock racer tire, most of which are going to be relatively thin and soft for the best traction.

It'll probably be fine glued. A lot of people cut and glue their own tires without a problem
 
The King's would certainly look the part, and I won't fault you for that, but I don't think you'd gain any performance. Isn't the stock rear 125mm?

I just got back from another run. It's great to have a nice spot that is a short enough walk that my gimp self can get to it. I immediately noticed the right rear wheel wasn't driving, but the wheel nut was still snug. I didn't notice anything funny at the end of yesterday's run. Luckily it was just a stripped out wheel and the Baja Rey carries a spare! I suppose I should start wheel shopping soon, glue on's work fine for me so I might just get the Associated KMC's for like $8 a pair. Tires on the other hand don't look like they'll be so cheap, unless I take my chances with the ebay General Grabbers for $20 a set (which come with plastic KMC wheels) thoughts?

The spec may say 125mm, but the King's had about 5mm of extension on them. I did get them mounted up, and they definitely look the part. I ended up using the stock Losi springs versus the King 2 stage, the stock lower spring retainer, and then filled with 50W and adjusted pre-load. They feel ridiculously smooth and dampening feels about spot on. I've gotta wait for things to dry up a bit around here before I can really suss them out. But, the bench drop test looks good and it settles right in to proper ride height. I figure if they work out real well, great. If not, they were just laying around any way.
 

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You're right, they aren't exactly the same. All of the guts are interchangeable though. The difference is that the TH has a 100% plastic carrier while the Rey has a metal surface for the bearing to ride on. Maybe I'll snap some pictures/take some measurements of the 2 when I tear the TH apart to replace the cvd's sometime soon.
 
15min of run time on 3s 10t pinion = melted center section LOL. I hate the shocks they have no bladder whats up with that? I really think the helical cut gears are killing these lame bearings. I did the math last night before I even ran my truck and if I ran the RR ring and pinion with the 13t motor pinion the truck would have a theoretical top speed of 47mph vs stocks 45 on 3s +10t.
 
Them Mc Baja ray arms tho

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It would be nice if we could see a pics only thread of the Baja Rey to see what all folks have been doing to their rigs!
 
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