littlebuddha
Rock Stacker
Hi guys how did you fit the castle 5mm motors in your rigs? The motor shaft is too long for me - trying to fit the 1415 2400kv motor which has a 21mm shaft...
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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
edjo69
Pebble Pounder
A 3mm motor heat-sink/spacer works fine. Just add it to the end of the motor and then attach to motor mount, the shaft will stick out a bit from the pinion but it fits fine. Ed
Timekiller83
Newbie
Re: Losi Baja Rey rear diff housing gasket
Does anyone know how to get the rear diff housing gasket. Everyone sells in a full kit and I don't need the full kit.
Does anyone know how to get the rear diff housing gasket. Everyone sells in a full kit and I don't need the full kit.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Re: Losi Baja Rey rear diff housing gasket
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
If you call/email (I'd suggest attaching a PDF, with the individual 'part' circled, if going the email route) Horizon Hobby, they'll be best equipped to help. While there area lot of "part numbers" that consist of a group of parts, within the internal Horizon Hobby system, many of the individual parts that make up those "part groups" can be obtained individually (not 'all', but 'many'), directly from Horizon Hobby. Not saying the gasket is among the individually-obtainable parts...but, it doesn't hurt to check with them.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Timekiller83
Newbie
Ok, thanks for the tip!
Timekiller83
Newbie
Does anyone know what size screws are used for the exotech diff housing (for the BR of course). I'd like to order stainless steel screws.
TheLetterJ
RCC Addict
I want to say they're m2.5x8, but don't quote me on that length. I'd recommend sticking with the included grade 12.9 steel screws instead of switching to stainless. SS is weaker and that kinda defeats the purpose of going with a larger screw (m2.5 for Exotek vs m2 for the hot racing cups, or even smaller (1.8?) for the stockers) since screw breakage has been the #2 reason (right behind exploded pinion bearings) for failed diffs. They'll be smothered in grease anyway, so it's not like they're gonna rust.
Timekiller83
Newbie
Ok, cool. I ordered protec hardened screws. I stripped the hex head on the ones that came with exotec diff. I think I need to upgrade my tools because this has occurred a handful of times.
edjo69
Pebble Pounder
Finally finished Mango Loco! Only took 2.5yrs!!
deephis46
Quarry Creeper
Been a while running my Baja Rey but I noticed that mine stuttering at low end. Is it just because of sensorless? Do I need to change other esc to get smooth low end?
I read that changing the esc will get good run, but I don't know if the low end smooth.
I now looking at the Hobbywing Max10 SCT.
EDIT:
Seems that my lipo is somewhat DOA not giving enough juice when the truck is start to run. Running new lipo fix the problem.
I read that changing the esc will get good run, but I don't know if the low end smooth.
I now looking at the Hobbywing Max10 SCT.
EDIT:
Seems that my lipo is somewhat DOA not giving enough juice when the truck is start to run. Running new lipo fix the problem.
Last edited:
sb4pro
Quarry Creeper
Finally finished Mango Loco! Only took 2.5yrs!!
Looks amazing "thumbsup"
Just wanted to say, for the guys looking for wheels, and they're also getting harder to find like the axial methods. But the team associated methods seem to have the right offset for the BR. Picked up a set and mounted the proline bfgs on them.
Clearance seems to be about the same as stock (I do have a slightly longer rod end on my shocks to prevent rubbing at full bump) but the offset seems right (if not a mm or 2 narrower)
Also got a full set of the associated paddles on the method wheels and they seem to clear well (the tips of the paddles may rub just a bit)
Clearance seems to be about the same as stock (I do have a slightly longer rod end on my shocks to prevent rubbing at full bump) but the offset seems right (if not a mm or 2 narrower)
Also got a full set of the associated paddles on the method wheels and they seem to clear well (the tips of the paddles may rub just a bit)
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
For those still running Baja Reys:
Mine had been languishing in the attic, gathering dust for 2 years. I decided to see if I could get it in running order again. I had ‘borrowed’ the 3800kv motor for my Turnigy DB, buuut.. I had a spare Spektrum 3150kv.
It’s a great upgrade from the old dynamite 3800, that had a habit of running somewhat hot. I only upped the gearing a bit. A 13t pinion for 3s. To be honest, I -at first- had optimistically used a 17t pinion.. not smart. Motor and ESC survived without trouble, but the Rey gobbled amps like crazy, got hot too, and was wáy too fast to be fun. Plús I finally succeeded in blowing both bearings in the rear axle to smithereens. One moment it flew, the next the most horrible crunching sounds I had ever heard from an axle. It wasn’t hot, though. So, no melted bearing holders.
At first I feared I blew the whole gearset.. but, no.. it survived the carnage just fine… be it that ALL those tiiiiiny balls were stuck to the grease in the diff housing. *oooff* close call.sooo..yeah. Òut with the 17t, ìn with the 13t plus 2 new, quality 10x5 bearings. No more trouble since. It’s only a tad slower at top speed than the 3800. I guess the 3150 has a bit more torque. Good enough for me. 60+ km/h is plenty for a gentleman of my age… Still…. It would be nice if those fancy alu 3rd members with their 11x5 bearings were still available. Ah well. I got boxes full of 10x5 bearings.
Next thing on the agenda : locking the center diff to battle the ballooning of the front tires, and an open diff in the rear. Some major disassembling will be needed. Sheesh.. it’s almost asif putting crazy amounts of power in toy cars increases costs and maintenance needs…:lmao:
EDIT: Yup. Opening the rear diff, and Locking the center diff was the key, as an added bonus : much less torque twist at accelleration. It’s very controllable now, even on high grip surfaces. Less barrel rolls too. Odd. For now I’ll keep it at 2s too. 3s is nice to impress the neighbours, but quite useless. Maybe I’ll up the pinion to a 14t, and then I’ll call it a day.
Mine had been languishing in the attic, gathering dust for 2 years. I decided to see if I could get it in running order again. I had ‘borrowed’ the 3800kv motor for my Turnigy DB, buuut.. I had a spare Spektrum 3150kv.
It’s a great upgrade from the old dynamite 3800, that had a habit of running somewhat hot. I only upped the gearing a bit. A 13t pinion for 3s. To be honest, I -at first- had optimistically used a 17t pinion.. not smart. Motor and ESC survived without trouble, but the Rey gobbled amps like crazy, got hot too, and was wáy too fast to be fun. Plús I finally succeeded in blowing both bearings in the rear axle to smithereens. One moment it flew, the next the most horrible crunching sounds I had ever heard from an axle. It wasn’t hot, though. So, no melted bearing holders.
At first I feared I blew the whole gearset.. but, no.. it survived the carnage just fine… be it that ALL those tiiiiiny balls were stuck to the grease in the diff housing. *oooff* close call.sooo..yeah. Òut with the 17t, ìn with the 13t plus 2 new, quality 10x5 bearings. No more trouble since. It’s only a tad slower at top speed than the 3800. I guess the 3150 has a bit more torque. Good enough for me. 60+ km/h is plenty for a gentleman of my age… Still…. It would be nice if those fancy alu 3rd members with their 11x5 bearings were still available. Ah well. I got boxes full of 10x5 bearings.
Next thing on the agenda : locking the center diff to battle the ballooning of the front tires, and an open diff in the rear. Some major disassembling will be needed. Sheesh.. it’s almost asif putting crazy amounts of power in toy cars increases costs and maintenance needs…:lmao:
EDIT: Yup. Opening the rear diff, and Locking the center diff was the key, as an added bonus : much less torque twist at accelleration. It’s very controllable now, even on high grip surfaces. Less barrel rolls too. Odd. For now I’ll keep it at 2s too. 3s is nice to impress the neighbours, but quite useless. Maybe I’ll up the pinion to a 14t, and then I’ll call it a day.
Last edited:
Timekiller83
Newbie
Need a diff gasket for the Losi Baja Rey and I don’t want to buy the entire kit. Anyone have an idea interchangeable gaskets from other rigs or who may sell just the gaskets? Thanks!
ive made all kinda of custom gaskets for.full sized rigs from head gaskets to thermostate housings to exhaust gaskets
for your diff gasket i sugest some really thin cardboard and cut to fit your needs
if for some reason you have issues with leaking use a little bit of ultra black silicone to seal the cardboard
if thats too thick try constuction paper coated with some kind of silicone ultra black preferably but any rtv sealent should work
Hey guys testing a way to post pics..
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176348&d=1674227488
Can someone please verify if you can access the photo, and I’ll post more.
Thanks,
Jesse
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176348&d=1674227488
Can someone please verify if you can access the photo, and I’ll post more.
Thanks,
Jesse
air8
Pebble Pounder
Jesse J
To view your photos, each person would have to create an account at that site.
I believe there is a setting to use here on RC Crawler that would upload to this site.
To view your photos, each person would have to create an account at that site.
I believe there is a setting to use here on RC Crawler that would upload to this site.