Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[Panther6834]

Should definitely be toe-out at the front, NOT toe- in (though, the rear should have toe-in). As long as the replacement pieces have sexing identical to the stock parts, it souldn't alter the toe-in/out.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

 

[521BBF]

Has anyone reinforced their upper control arms with carbon fiber sheet? Mine have bent, which increased camber. I don't want aluminum arms, so I was thinking about screwing and/or epoxying carbon fiber to the top of the arms. Has anyone done something similar?

 

[vonmarshall]

Should definitely be toe-out at the front, NOT toe- in (though, the rear should have toe-in). As long as the replacement pieces have sexing identical to the stock parts, it souldn't alter the toe-in/out.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Thanks finally managed to check. It is toe out at the front. More than I expected. Will find out soon enough when the new body is finished. It really is a beautiful car to work on.

 

[Panther6834]

Thanks finally managed to check. It is toe out at the front. More than I expected. Will find out soon enough when the new body is finished. It really is a beautiful car to work on.

Don't need the body to check/adjust toe-in/toe-out. If you don't have an RC setup system/station, them just use large-squared graph paper.

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[vonmarshall]

Don't need the body to check/adjust toe-in/toe-out. If you don't have an RC setup system/station, them just use large-squared graph paper.

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Ha I knew that! I just mean that my post-refurb run will be soon. If I knew what angle the toe in should be I could measure it, but without that info it will be all down to the test drive.

 

[Panther6834]

Ha I knew that! I just mean that my post-refurb run will be soon. If I knew what angle the toe in should be I could measure it, but without that info it will be all down to the test drive.

Toe-in (rear) is probably best around 1-2° per side. Toe-out (front) is probably best around 1-3° per side. Exact amount will mostly depend on the terrain you'll be running on. My initial setting (after completing the majority of my rebuild) is rear 1.5° toe-in, front 2.5° toe-out.

Obviously, these can only be changed if you've replaced the stock solid turnbuckles with adjustable turnbuckles.

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[521BBF]

How are you guys changing rear toe?

 

[Panther6834]

How are you guys changing rear toe?

It's a solid axle vehicle, with solid driveshafts...toe in/out is not adjustable.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[521BBF]

It's a solid axle vehicle, with solid driveshafts...toe in/out is not adjustable.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

That is exactly why I asked. You stated that rear toe in is probably best around 1-2 degrees as if it can be adjusted.



But... You could probably alter rear toe ever so slightly by deforming the axle housing or building toe into an aluminum housing. I wasn't sure if you were getting that deep or not.

 

[Panther6834]

That is exactly why I asked. You stated that rear toe in is probably best around 1-2 degrees as if it can be adjusted.



But... You could probably alter rear toe ever so slightly by deforming the axle housing or building toe into an aluminum housing. I wasn't sure if you were getting that deep or not.

Sorry. When I made my "1-2 degrees" reply, I was visiting family (for Thanksgiving week) quite a distance from my house, couldn't actually check my Baja Rey, and was stating the "typical" toe-in for most off-road vehicles (ie. 2-4 degrees total). The Baja Rey already has toe-in, and it's already at a (near) 'perfect' amount.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[halllon]

I believe I just fried my Baja Rey ESC playing in the snow on 4S. No power coming to receiver or to the fan, but the led light is glowing red. The setup/programming button works and the ecu responds to programming. Anyone know what’s going on?

And what’s the best ESC to replace it with if it is in fact broken?

 

[Panther6834]

I believe I just fried my Baja Rey ESC playing in the snow on 4S. No power coming to receiver or to the fan, but the led light is glowing red. The setup/programming button works and the ecu responds to programming. Anyone know what’s going on?



And what’s the best ESC to replace it with if it is in fact broken?

Don't think I can help in troubleshooting the stock ESC, except to say you should trying giving Horizon Hobby a call. As for your second question, I REALLY like the Castle Mamba X (which, if you read the entire thread, you'll discover a LOT of people have used). The great thing is, it pairs extremely well worth a number of sensored & unsensored motors (my motor of choice, the Tekin ROC412 HD).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[halllon]

Don't think I can help in troubleshooting the stock ESC, except to say you should trying giving Horizon Hobby a call. As for your second question, I REALLY like the Castle Mamba X (which, if you read the entire thread, you'll discover a LOT of people have used). The great thing is, it pairs extremely well worth a number of sensored & unsensored motors (my motor of choice, the Tekin ROC412 HD).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Thank you! I'll consider the Mamba X route then. What about the Hobbywing EzRun Max6 160A?

I tried calling Horizon Hobby but after waiting for almost an hour I hung up.

 

[Cyclist]

I don't own a Castle Mamba X (yet) but the Hobbywing Max10 SCT is a solid drop in replacement for the stock ESC and I think it works better than stock.

 

[c0bra]

The hobbywing sct esc is also a solid choice


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[michiganwelds]

Hey guys brand new here but I am trying to make a steel wire cage for with this model for someone, does anyone possibly have dimensions or pictures of what I should be doing? Google was no help at all I'm lost

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[Prize]

Hi,

So, I'm at the moment rebuilding my truck but whilst I'm at it might as well change the diff oil. I have changed the read differential for the open diff but what's the correct weight for someone that will use it as a basher?
Thanks for the suggestions.

Maarten

 

[PrpleNrpleV2]

Hi,

So, I'm at the moment rebuilding my truck but whilst I'm at it might as well change the diff oil. I have changed the read differential for the open diff but what's the correct weight for someone that will use it as a basher?
Thanks for the suggestions.

Maarten

Yoy will find a million diff recommendations. You could just fill em full of good bearing grease like it was from factory. Like Lucas red and tacky or maxima grease from a motorcycle shop.

 

[PrpleNrpleV2]

Hey! So I had about a month and a few days of almost every day running the Baja Rey. After a few tweeks to the Shocks and learning to drive(last rc I had was when the rustler was brand new) it stopped nose diving all the time. So much fun even on 2s. Not touching a 3s. One day it just made this horrible grinding/crunching noise for a few seconds and went away...

Well battery was about dead so I packed it up. Checked it over and noticed the rear output had what I felt was ex essive play. Thought maybe it was it. But after stripping it completely down.... I think it was the fact a ton of dirt was all inside the trans housing and just got ground up for a few seconds.

So Started reading on fixes and upgrades.... Well a good chunk of change later...

Could not get the rear axle together and turning smoothly, found out the axles were bent.... Got new axles and smooth as butter.

Got it all together and was just bench running it...the trans is super loud... It is dry right now so not sure if greasing it is going to quiet it down or not... But Center driveshaft is bent.... And front axles are bent....

Has anyone ever bent these before!!!!??? Besides nose diving and a few tight turn rollovers it was never crashed hard. Always on soft dirt.

 

[PrpleNrpleV2]

Here she is mostly finished. It has been finished just haven't had time to post up and figured I would shake it down for a bit.

Hot racing front aluminum diff housing in black.
Losi aluminum front strut tower
Pro-line shocks 45wt oil
losi turn buckles
losi aluminum hubs
losi aluminum steering linkages
6250 spektrum servo
srs6000 receiver with voltage
New stock front axles, center shaft, rear axles, all were bent...
HR motor fan.
losi upper and lower aluminum links
HR 3rd member ( 1 shim on each side of the diff and 2 shims on pinion)
GPM upper link mount
New tires
Pro-line F11 bead locks.
Pro-line xt's 60 wt oil.
New body shoe gooed and drywall taped.


There is no proline spring kit for the XT's. So I got a spring kit for both rear and front for the slash. I ended up with red/green combo for the front and red/red for the rear.
The 60wt and the stock springs for the xt worked to reduce the endo's and it landed really nice in the big hucks. But in the choppy bumps the rebound was a little slow. So the red springs helped with that while keeping the bucking to a minimum.

I put 30k in the front diff, 100k in the middle, and locked the rear. On the surface I run on which is loose DG it works nicely. Does not turn as sharp as it used to but nothing a little brake slide and throttle punch to swing it around. Is it perfect? I dont think so. Is it way better then stock? O yes. Def does not seem to diff out as much as it used to.

Broke one end off a lower link coming up short on a big jump. More like ripped it off. Luckily losi sells the replacement ends for a few bucks


The stock tires were so full of sand that when I gave it throttle it would vibrate so hard. I purchased new tires and started using acetone to remove old tires and re use rims....and said screw it an got the F11 beadlocks. They work OK. If I land crooked on the side etc it will pop the inside bead out. It has happened 3 times now on each rear tire. I am going to glue the inside bead on so it still is removable to clean out any sand that gets in etc.

I put one of the stock tires that is full of sand on the rear spare mount. Def helped by adding some weight back there. Somebody needs to make some stiffeners for the cage..doubleclutchproductions is suppose to have something in the works.

Hopefully I will add some new updated pics soon




20210219_053056 by Randy Schisler, on Flickr


20210219_053047 by Randy Schisler, on Flickr