So, I'm updating my Baja Rey to the Raptor body and I want to use the new wheels with the Axial Yeti Score tires. Has anybody found a set of the Raptor wheels without tires mounted? I can't seem to find them anywhere. I got the Black Rhino body as my beater and I am going to do a custom painted body for show.
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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
TheLetterJ
RCC Addict
To dodge your question... just run the Yeti SCORE wheels too. They're my go-to sct wheel anyway, MUCH tougher than the Losi wheels and use SLW hubs so you'll never strip a hex. VP .225" hubs fit perfectly. I was able to wear out 3 sets of tires to 1 set of SCORE/Methods before finally seeing enough damage to justify buying another set of wheels. They're available in black, white, green, and orange for about $15 a pair.
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
I am super late to the Baja Rey party as well...
I almost bought one when they came out originally, but life happened, and money got tight, so I took back my deposit from my lhs.
I went to my Lhs with the intention of picking up a BND version and came home with a Black Rhino version...(shrugs)
I LOVE IT! They killed it with the scale stuff, but left enough room for some improvements. Thinking dual rear spare tires, Jack, and dual fire extinguishers. Then maybe dual shocks front and rear....
Btw I have read the entire thread and plan on running 2s, before I pick up some SSD diff housings. then let her eat on 3s.
I may do a motor swap to a lower Kv before I bump up to 3s, from what I hear run time is limited with the 3800 kv and the truck is a pure bullet with the stock motor on 3s. Doing some math, I figure I can have a bit more speed an more run time on 3s and a 2700kv motor vs a 3800kv and 2s....
My observations on the diffs... Tha front is more open than the rear, and the center seems to be about the same as the rear when turning things by hand. I will drive it first before figuring out if I need, or want to lock things up with a Locker.
Opinions?
I almost bought one when they came out originally, but life happened, and money got tight, so I took back my deposit from my lhs.
I went to my Lhs with the intention of picking up a BND version and came home with a Black Rhino version...(shrugs)
I LOVE IT! They killed it with the scale stuff, but left enough room for some improvements. Thinking dual rear spare tires, Jack, and dual fire extinguishers. Then maybe dual shocks front and rear....
Btw I have read the entire thread and plan on running 2s, before I pick up some SSD diff housings. then let her eat on 3s.
I may do a motor swap to a lower Kv before I bump up to 3s, from what I hear run time is limited with the 3800 kv and the truck is a pure bullet with the stock motor on 3s. Doing some math, I figure I can have a bit more speed an more run time on 3s and a 2700kv motor vs a 3800kv and 2s....
My observations on the diffs... Tha front is more open than the rear, and the center seems to be about the same as the rear when turning things by hand. I will drive it first before figuring out if I need, or want to lock things up with a Locker.
Opinions?
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lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
Sure is pretty when new!
BAJAREY2017
Quarry Creeper
I put a sensored hobbywing xerun 3800kv motor and on 3s it would overheat, even on 2s it would get a little hotter then I like. I then went to a 3200 and it’s perfect. Didn’t have a problem on 3s but I went back to running 2s and I feel it’s plenty fast enough. If you run 3s I’d suggest getting the ssd front bulkhead and driveline along with a vanquish axle or at least the 3rd member since the pinion bearing are bigger than stock.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hamsterrorist
Newbie
Odd, my BND (and i'm assuming it's a fairly recent one as it included the FPV cage doo-dah?) has a totally locked rear axle. Front diff is super open, centre diff feels a bit tighter.
Body conversion complete! I've got the new RPM front bumper for the Raptor body on order.
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrUntitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
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Oh, I'm with you on the Method wheels. I run those on my Losi SCBE in the neon green since it matches the buggy.
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrI just can't bring myself to run Method wheels on a truck with a body whose main sponsor is Black Rhino Off Road Wheels, lol.
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
Traxxas UDR front bypass shocks work perfect as bypass shocks for the rear. I left the stock Traxxas oil in the bypass shocks and changed the stock Losi shocks to 10 wt. Still have to run it and see how it does.
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
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Figured I'd come join the party. My girlfriend got a Baja Rey a few weeks ago and I got a Bomber, then quickly decided the Baja Rey was too much fun so bought myself one.
Out of the box I've been impressed how durable they seem to be. Though after a few weeks of playing around (and we run almost exclusively 3s, though usually only at the 50-75% throttle limits) they're starting to show a few weaknesses. I broke two lower A arms and ripped a trailing arm mount out, then she broke two upper A arms and a lower A arm. She also wore down the rear diff spider gears super fast, and simultaneously ripped/overheated the center diff and it took out part of the transmission housing with it. We got all that fixed yesterday. I'm new to RC trucks, used to be into airplanes and helicopters a long time ago, so honestly not sure what we're doing but they're a lot of fun. I filled the center and rear diff with 10W-30 motor oil, no idea what people normally run but there's more oil in there than there was before, and then used Lucas Red-N-Tacky on everything else. Since they're scaled down cars, I figure it won't hurt to use full size fluids haha.
Today I got the Metal Concepts aluminum lowers in and put them on. The next step might be to get all aluminum arms for my girlfriends, and I want dual shocks on mine since I tend to huck it a bit more than she does and it feels like one of my front shocks is already blown. Overall impressed with these little trucks, they take a beating and can haul ass. Wish I got into these sooner, everything is cheap compared to their full size counterparts!
Out of the box I've been impressed how durable they seem to be. Though after a few weeks of playing around (and we run almost exclusively 3s, though usually only at the 50-75% throttle limits) they're starting to show a few weaknesses. I broke two lower A arms and ripped a trailing arm mount out, then she broke two upper A arms and a lower A arm. She also wore down the rear diff spider gears super fast, and simultaneously ripped/overheated the center diff and it took out part of the transmission housing with it. We got all that fixed yesterday. I'm new to RC trucks, used to be into airplanes and helicopters a long time ago, so honestly not sure what we're doing but they're a lot of fun. I filled the center and rear diff with 10W-30 motor oil, no idea what people normally run but there's more oil in there than there was before, and then used Lucas Red-N-Tacky on everything else. Since they're scaled down cars, I figure it won't hurt to use full size fluids haha.
Today I got the Metal Concepts aluminum lowers in and put them on. The next step might be to get all aluminum arms for my girlfriends, and I want dual shocks on mine since I tend to huck it a bit more than she does and it feels like one of my front shocks is already blown. Overall impressed with these little trucks, they take a beating and can haul ass. Wish I got into these sooner, everything is cheap compared to their full size counterparts!
hamsterrorist
Newbie
I swapped out the servo on mine the other day (for a cheap but fast 25kg DSSERVO unit) - man, what a difference! Can also finally keep up with the gyro much better.
But in doing the swap I realised that the servo horn is 23T. No matter, i'll use one of my 25T alloy clampers - nope, not enough room. OK, i'll go with a shorty horn from some other machine - great, except that the ball-end for the steering link doesn't want to go in nicely coz it's 4/40 thread (instead of typical 3mm)?
Am I correct in assuming that the Losi-branded alloy horn is threaded appropriately? Or should I just swap out to 3mm and use what I have? I will certainly be getting an alloy steering rack assembly at some stage, the slop is shocking.
But in doing the swap I realised that the servo horn is 23T. No matter, i'll use one of my 25T alloy clampers - nope, not enough room. OK, i'll go with a shorty horn from some other machine - great, except that the ball-end for the steering link doesn't want to go in nicely coz it's 4/40 thread (instead of typical 3mm)?
Am I correct in assuming that the Losi-branded alloy horn is threaded appropriately? Or should I just swap out to 3mm and use what I have? I will certainly be getting an alloy steering rack assembly at some stage, the slop is shocking.
I saw a guy on youtube who did it. He used a long through bolt or some all thread and a stock shock mount, and then cut a hole in his upper; I didn't watch far enough to see how he attached to the lower. If the shock mount is actually that easy, and the upper can be easily modified on my mill, then the biggest issue is the lower. As I'm thinking about it, making some secondary mounting tabs that just bolt to the lower would probably be the easiest. I could also mill a pocket in the arm and run a bolt through the center... But making a little bracket, even something as simple as a U with a single bolt in the middle holding it to the arm and a through hole, would be pretty easy to do.
I bit the bullet on the wheels and tires and bought the new Losi wheels. I also took the center diff out and filled it with 20K fluid. Holy crap that was a pain to get to! I'm going to give it a test run tomorrow and then it is off to the Mint 400 that evening!
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrTheLetterJ
RCC Addict
LOS230068 is the adapter set to fit the Raptor body. Costs about $10. I think you need the front bumper too Losi #231058, $8, but RPM has a Raptor specific version #73172 for about $17.
Test run complete. It was stopped short by a lost axle nut but I'm pretty happy with the performance. I employed my expert photographer to capture these shots (thanks to the wife and her awesome camera and skills!).
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
Untitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrUntitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrUntitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on FlickrUntitled by JASON MCKIMMEY, on Flickr
lonleycreeper
I wanna be Dave
Lovely wife's do take the best pictures!
