I think for me, the underdrive pinion is the way to go. It reduces the turn of the wheel in the rear but still gives you grip. I like the concept of the "slipper" but it is not predictable enough yet. I will be watching these other ideas with great interest. Adam is very creative in trying new things."thumbsup"
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Loose bead locks on rear tires
- Thread starter droopmodmrc
- Start date
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- Tags
- dig losi mini rock crawler mrc
killboy
Newbie
How about using a collar/spacer made of metal tubing and cut to just the right length instead of the rounded hex? Then you could tighten the wheel nut firmly against the collar, but it would hold everything just far enough apart inside to allow slip.
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
Im worried if we make it to technical they will make illegal in 1.9 comp. I don't see how they can tell you how to run your rear beads.:shock:
plus if you look at when I first posted about this idea. Let's just say it was a while ago and I've ran countless packs since then and beads are still fine"thumbsup"
plus if you look at when I first posted about this idea. Let's just say it was a while ago and I've ran countless packs since then and beads are still fine"thumbsup"
killboy
Newbie
I feel ya droop, my angle is I don't have the beadlocks that you do...the only ones that seem to work. This mod at the hub could work with all wheels.
Abavuso
RCC Addict
This is what I'm thinking. Just need to decide what is going to be the best washer in place of the nylon or other material to get the best results.
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
For sure, I just hope even if they don't allow the hub to slip that we can still run the titus with loose rings and comp. only reason i didn't make the simple hub mod is cause it has been great how i have it. I am makeing the hub slip on my scx10 just for testing. no way it would be allowed in scale comp.:shock:
Abavuso
RCC Addict
I don't think they would because then you would have to call into question all kinds of things IMO. Like, underdrive and overdrive mod, mod for more stearing angle, how the weight is suspended in the wheel or axle, 4 link plates, link goemetry and it could realy go on and on. It's just a diferent way to bolt your wheels to the axles.
I mean the concept is almost the same as not having a locked dif on the rear or using a sintrifical clutch. if you had the time and the money you could design this to work in the dif it's self but that would just be over kill.
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
Except a unlocked diff will never allow both rears not to turn.
Abavuso
RCC Addict
This is true. humm
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
that is a constant underdrive. not like this at all with the rear wheels cycling in technical crawls is some fun to drive and brings a big smile to my face to see the rears doing there thing kicking on and off. how bout in combo with the underdrive pinion :shock: and just have em slip alittle "thumbsup"
Abavuso
RCC Addict
I currently have the underdrive on my rig and with the slip, it just makes it total awesom when the slip is adjusted just right.
rock hard
dnf
Ok guys,I think you should consider making the slippage against the hex pin.
if you have a alum hex,flip it,if it has grubs,dont use them.
Now what will hold the pin in place?
shrink wrap it,trim of the shrick wrap 1/16 +/- past the edge.
Now,in order
pin
fiber washer
hex
wheel
wheel nut
Now when you tighten the wheel,its pressure is placed againt the pin,but its not locked onto the pin.It will in theory slip,depending on the pressure aplied.
The fiber washer should grip the hex pin when pressure is applied aswell.
Dont jack up your hex's/wheels yet.
if you have a alum hex,flip it,if it has grubs,dont use them.
Now what will hold the pin in place?
shrink wrap it,trim of the shrick wrap 1/16 +/- past the edge.
Now,in order
pin
fiber washer
hex
wheel
wheel nut
Now when you tighten the wheel,its pressure is placed againt the pin,but its not locked onto the pin.It will in theory slip,depending on the pressure aplied.
The fiber washer should grip the hex pin when pressure is applied aswell.
Dont jack up your hex's/wheels yet.
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
Ok ideas for grip material for washers ?And make sure the washer is small between hub and wheel just touching the bearing. (Check for binding)The tension has to be between nut and wheel and you'd have to locktight it. Its small of an area circumfrence to make slipper from small washer. The reason the beadlock works better so far is the area is larger. Were on the right track. But im just laying back chillin with the beadlock mod for now .
rock hard
dnf
Yeah I hear ya,its a cool idea for sure,its just against my nature,to mod my truck to lose traction:mrgreen:
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
Correction you can't run it no pin. You will tighten the bearings into the hole works.
only thing that's gonna work is a 1 inch around slipper disk on the pin and a slipper disk with slipper material and a hex on the rim side. It would just have to be a thin slipper setup.
only thing that's gonna work is a 1 inch around slipper disk on the pin and a slipper disk with slipper material and a hex on the rim side. It would just have to be a thin slipper setup.
xgerstandtx
RCC Addict
I don't have a ton of tech knowledge to add to this, But i will deff. try the slipbead mod on the ol' prline titus'.
I will report back.
This thread and the out of the box thinking is why i love this hobby. Way to always keep evolving"thumbsup"
I will report back.
This thread and the out of the box thinking is why i love this hobby. Way to always keep evolving"thumbsup"
killboy
Newbie
If you run out of space for slipper components on the stock shaft setup, what about using an extended Barrel Nut like the ones included with these spacers? (silver tubes)
Abavuso
RCC Addict
If the picture posted above doesn't leave enought room on the axle for the lock nut, that's my next aporach since I already have those barel nuts.
I'm trying to make this mod work from simple stuff. Once I get more time my plan is to design a slpper plat that will have half over the pin so that it spins and then the other half a hex to fit in the wheel then put it all together with a barel nut.
Think of this, take teh slipper off the trans, drill the center hole to 5mm to fit over the axle, afik a plastic hex to the outside of the top plate... scratch that... This idea will work just might need a specific wheel for it to work.
It just acured to me, I'm basing this onthe same Idea of the slipper on your trans. So you would need a slipper plate on the front and back side of a wheel to allow friction on the wheel alone to let it slip. Basily putting the wheel in the same position as the spur gear in the trans. Hummm... this is going to require some more thought. I think doing the slipping in such a small area where the hex is just doesn't provide enough surface aree to be efficent.
Some people talked about doing this on all 4 wheels????? Not sure why you would want the front to do this, you need the front to put down as much power and traction as you can for this to work well.
I'm trying to make this mod work from simple stuff. Once I get more time my plan is to design a slpper plat that will have half over the pin so that it spins and then the other half a hex to fit in the wheel then put it all together with a barel nut.
Think of this, take teh slipper off the trans, drill the center hole to 5mm to fit over the axle, afik a plastic hex to the outside of the top plate... scratch that... This idea will work just might need a specific wheel for it to work.
It just acured to me, I'm basing this onthe same Idea of the slipper on your trans. So you would need a slipper plate on the front and back side of a wheel to allow friction on the wheel alone to let it slip. Basily putting the wheel in the same position as the spur gear in the trans. Hummm... this is going to require some more thought. I think doing the slipping in such a small area where the hex is just doesn't provide enough surface aree to be efficent.
Some people talked about doing this on all 4 wheels????? Not sure why you would want the front to do this, you need the front to put down as much power and traction as you can for this to work well.
droopmodmrc
Quarry Creeper
All 4 wheels would be completely useless imo:lmao:
how about a modded slipper from a micro crawler
im not saying a drilled out micro crawler slipper would work im just saying that is more like the diameter we need but its not gonna have a hex or nothing
i just dont see it needing as big a slipper as the mrc trans has nor do i think it would fit and stay in comp spec.
now everyone dont go wreaking 4 slippers in 4 vehicles trying to make this mod work :roll: when all you need is the titus rims
no just kidding we need to make a slipper but the beadlock has not been beat in performace yet from what i have tried last night. damn mod got me no sleep :lmao:
how about a modded slipper from a micro crawler
im not saying a drilled out micro crawler slipper would work im just saying that is more like the diameter we need but its not gonna have a hex or nothing
i just dont see it needing as big a slipper as the mrc trans has nor do i think it would fit and stay in comp spec.
now everyone dont go wreaking 4 slippers in 4 vehicles trying to make this mod work :roll: when all you need is the titus rims
no just kidding we need to make a slipper but the beadlock has not been beat in performace yet from what i have tried last night. damn mod got me no sleep :lmao:
Abavuso
RCC Addict
Humm a micro slipper. Ill have to find one. In the mean time. Im off to the hardware store to find better material for this first idea.
