Locked UP's TRX-4

[Locked Up]

My most recent picture & specs:

Traxxas TRX-4 frame & axle housings
Front Axle: FI Spool, Black Steel Portal Covers, Black Steeel Portal Knuckles, Black Steel C-Hubs, Traxxas Overdrive gears
Rear Axle: Traxxas Underdrive Gears
Bearings: Stock
Body: Proline Bronco
Wheels: Locked Up RC 1.9" Heritage AO8 with Red Agile Rings.
Tires: RC4WD 4.19" Baja Claws
Hubs: Locked Up RC Ultra front & rear
ESC: XL-5
Motor: Titan 550
Spur: 45t
Pinion 11t
Steering Servo: HS-7954SH
Winch: Commando RTR
Upgraded winch line: 200lb Synthetic
Fairlead: Aluminum 1/10
Tow Strap: Locked Up RC Standard
Shackle: 1:10 D Ring Shackles
Snatch Block: Devil RC



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THE BUILD:
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Picked this up in a deal locally so it was "pre-loved" a bit.

Came with the Bronco body on it and ... I'm sorta digging it.

Front & rear Wheelbases are off a hair.
Will work on those.

The interior looks like a Deadbolt.
Needs a haircut...

Also a big vast nothingness in the back of the interior.

The front bumper hangs down really low.

Turtle shot

Naked

Swapped servo that came with it.

 

[Locked Up]

Immediately flipped the front bumper mount.

Not perfect but better.

Dropped front body mount one hole too.
Good enough for now.

I'm thinking 1/4" front and rear to remove form the WB will be good.

 

[durok]

Not a Bomber interior - they have a driver & a co-driver.

I think you may have a cut-out section from a Deadbolt tucked in there...

 

[solo1]

It will probably be easier to just shorten the rear not much room for movement up front

 

[BDR]

You need some LURC wheels:lmao::lmao::lmao:

Good choice on car, they are better than a Axial"thumbsup"

 

[Locked Up]

Not a Bomber interior - they have a driver & a co-driver.

I think you may have a cut-out section from a Deadbolt tucked in there...

You are 100% correct. Don't know what I was thinking.
"thumbsup"



For those wondering, the cage is held in with black sticky tape.
It actually is a pretty decent way to get something better than open air into it.

 

[Locked Up]

It will probably be easier to just shorten the rear not much room for movement up front

I only need about 1/4" front and rear to get it where I want it.
That should put the rear dead center in the wheel well.

The front will still be a little bit forward in the well but it think it has to be for clearance when turning.

Rear will easier for sure.
That's just links.

Front I will relocate the shock towers and everything back 1/4".
That way it maintains the clearance between the draglink, tierod, etc.

 

[Frank211]

You should think about the high-lift kit for it , when it comes out.

 

[Locked Up]

You should think about the high-lift kit for it , when it comes out.

I'm not sure I really want to go higher.
I know that will be great from some people....
I did that on the H2 SCX10 with a homebrew setup.



I actually had a 1:1 Bronco though and will be looking to make this a throwback of sorts.

Funny that the color scheme is inverted!

 

[Exocaged]

I like the stretched look, the front end has a lot of scrub when turning so you'll have issues with the tires hitting the body when moving it back.

 

[Locked Up]

I like the stretched look, the front end has a lot of scrub when turning so you'll have issues with the tires hitting the body when moving it back.

The plan is for smaller tires.
"thumbsup"

 

[Locked Up]

Playing with the tire size a bit to figure out exactly what I'll need to tweak.

And a few shots of things compressed a little.

Side shots for reference

 

[Locked Up]

Decided to go ahead and boil the tires off starting with the spare.

The spare was factory glued and looked to be in the best shape.
It also had less glue than the others.

Trusty goodwill pots & pans...

Took a total of 20 minutes per side and it came off fairly easily.

The boiling makes the glue brittle so you can crack the tires off.
It does still require some force but no tearing, no chemical, no burning vapors... so I call it a win.

 

[Locked Up]

Very slight bit of glue reside but it's easy to pick off with a thumbnail.

Up next ... the other four...

 

[Locked Up]

The main 4 tires were a bit more of a bitch.

Look like they had been previously removed and glued back on.
I'm guessing the PO did this when he painted them.

There was a lot more glue on them, so they required more boiling.
the 4 that were glued back on...

Compared to factory glue...

The difference is obvious on the rims as well.

Some spots I could not break off even with an hour of boiling.
Ugh.

If you look closely, you will also see the 4 that were glued again must have been putting off some sort of fumes form the glue because they have an odd white tint to them.

Closeup of the white:

Compared to stock glue job:

 

[Locked Up]

So....

And

leads to

And no more white:

And next time I'll tell you why I sanded the faces off the rings.

 

[Locked Up]

I decided to add some new rings to the wheels.

Fairly simple process that starts with sanding the original rings down to be a smooth surface.

I removed enough material to get rid of the design, but still left some of the lip.
When measured, my wheel bodies come to 25mm exactly.

I could have cut them off entirely but didn't....yet.
No particular reason.

To get the bolt pattern, I just held an original SCX10 beadlock ring in place and took my time.

You can use a LURC ring of course, I just had the SCX ring on hand for the first one and since it is already beat up a little, why not.

The bolt pattern fits really well with the TRX4 stock wheels.

 

[Locked Up]

You could also drill out for a bunch of screws and make these "Easy Mount" ... but I opted to use some of our M2x1 screws instead.

I think this looks killer!

 

[Locked Up]

Working on lots of stuff for this thing.



oops...

 

[Locked Up]

Got the wheelbase "corrected".

Details to come...
:mrgreen: