LJD RC's lemon JLU, "Sunset"

[VoltSCX]

Thought I'd finally make a thread for this truck now that I'm doing things to it. This is my mom's JLU, 'Sunset'.

She bought it new a couple months ago, just before Axialfest. It's completely stock and she doesn't run it very often. Still looks just as clean as it did out of the box. It's gone through 2 dig/2 speed servos, and now either the ESC/rx or the tx is having issues. I'm hoping that the new parts from Axial will solve the issue. I just feel really bad for my mom since it's her introduction to the hobby and I was the one that recommended the truck (not that it mattered much, she just wanted a JLU to match her 1/1). I still can't understand why it's having problems after such a short time. I ran my Gladiator for 2.5 years and it never skipped a beat.

Anyway, went ahead and pulled the ESC out last night. I left the burnt out shift servo in to keep the truck in gear (and to not lose the bolts, lol).

Also installed a spare aluminum upper panhard bar mount that I had lying around. I'd bought it for my JT, but the shock towers I got came with a mount as well so this one just sat in the parts box.

Also installed a brass rear bumper mount. I know, I know, it's unbalanced. I also had this lying around from my JT build, as I didn't know that the JT and JLU had different rear bumper mounts and ended up getting the wrong one. I'll be ordering a cheap one off of eBay to balance it out. Other than that this thing will probably stay stock, as mom doesn't want to put any more upgrades on it (at least for now). Hopefully the new electronics will come in sometime soon and this thing'll be back up and running.

 

[89Industries]

Setting the endpoints on the dig and shift servos is super important or they burn out pretty quick. It was difficult with the TX that came with my scx10iii rtr.

 

[VoltSCX]

Setting the endpoints on the dig and shift servos is super important or they burn out pretty quick. It was difficult with the TX that came with my scx10iii rtr.

Yeah, definitely. The first servo was set up by me on the same day that I set up my JT and it burned up at Axialfest (the one in the JT was fine though and I set it up exactly the same), and then the second one was done by an Axial/Horizon Hobby guy at the main booth at Axialfest. They're definitely a bit funky to set up, lol.

 

[hnoroian]

Right on Mom! Omit the 2 speed and dig. Lock in high gear and dig; Simple is better for this instance. Put in an interior with Wonder Woman’s head as the driver for her.

 

[Lashlee]

My wife has a 10.3 JLUR (kit version painted Sting Gray) to match her 1:1 and she rarely drives the R/C but the 1:1 is her daily! Hers is a 2018 JLUR with 40's, Metal Cloak Game Changer 3.5, Motobilt bumpers and spare tire carrier, Artec aluminum skid and inner fenders, GenRight frame mounted steps, Baja LP6's and Squadron Pro's, Steersmarts tie rod and drag link, Warn Winch and Apex steering boost kit. She loves driving it and scratched three of the five wheels the first time we went wheeling in it at our local off road park.

 

[VoltSCX]

Right on Mom! Omit the 2 speed and dig. Lock in high gear and dig; Simple is better for this instance. Put in an interior with Wonder Woman’s head as the driver for her.

If the next servo burns out I might do exactly that. That's a great idea though, I might take a glance and see if there's a way to rig up a different driver head, lol.

 

[VoltSCX]

My wife has a 10.3 JLUR (kit version painted Sting Gray) to match her 1:1 and she rarely drives the R/C but the 1:1 is her daily! Hers is a 2018 JLUR with 40's, Metal Cloak Game Changer 3.5, Motobilt bumpers and spare tire carrier, Artec aluminum skid and inner fenders, GenRight frame mounted steps, Baja LP6's and Squadron Pro's, Steersmarts tie rod and drag link, Warn Winch and Apex steering boost kit. She loves driving it and scratched three of the five wheels the first time we went wheeling in it at our local off road park.

Aw that's awesome! That's a really sweet build, I might take some notes lol. I've been thinking about picking up a JLU body to paint Ocean Blue to match my mom's 1:1. She's got a 2019 Rubicon that she daily drives and plans to keep mostly stock. The only mods are the radio antenna and the tires; 34.5in Ridge Grapplers.

 

[PileDriver]

My wife has a 10.3 JLUR (kit version painted Sting Gray) to match her 1:1 and she rarely drives the R/C but the 1:1 is her daily! Hers is a 2018 JLUR with 40's, Metal Cloak Game Changer 3.5, Motobilt bumpers and spare tire carrier, Artec aluminum skid and inner fenders, GenRight frame mounted steps, Baja LP6's and Squadron Pro's, Steersmarts tie rod and drag link, Warn Winch and Apex steering boost kit. She loves driving it and scratched three of the five wheels the first time we went wheeling in it at our local off road park.

I’m looking to get a new bumper for my JL. Yours looks good. Any more pics and how do you like the bumper? Also did you guys change front fenders the lights look different

 

[Lashlee]

@PileDriver I like the bumper as well!! I had them powder coated before I picked them up and I would've spent some time softening the D-Ring mounts since they are cut from 1" sheet metal. I have jacked up the Jeep before using the bumper just to see how well they hold up, and they took that like a champ!!

As for the fenders, the Rubicon highline fenders just separate the inner and outer sections (it takes a little effort and some trimming) to get them apart and you snap them back on. When you do that you lose the OEM fender light and I installed American Adventure Labs fender lights to help stiffen the front of the fenders.

 

[PileDriver]

Did your rubicon come with the metal Jeep bumper or plastic?

 

[Lashlee]

Mine had the plastic one. I looked for the metal since it keeps the OEM fog lights as well as the spot for the winch but I was able to buy the Motobilt one for less than what people wanted for the OEM.

 

[VoltSCX]

Finally got the new electronics from Horizon hobby, and the POS still doesn't work. I don't think it's the 2-in-1 anymore, seems more like the DX3 that's causing issues.

I'm going to try the DX3 from my IFS2 truck tomorrow and if that doesn't fix the problem then I give up. I'll either tell her to sell it, buy a new one (probably a JLU kit that someone hasn't messed with) and use this for parts, or get rid of the Spektrum BS and swap to some better stuff that won't have issues after being taken out on the trail 5 times in 6 months.

 

[89Industries]

What, besides the 2spd/dig servo issue, is the esc or TX having?

No go at all, glitching?

 

[VoltSCX]

What, besides the 2spd/dig servo issue, is the esc or TX having?

No go at all, glitching?

All of the trim adjustments are incredibly glitchy, and the throttle trim slowly starts to adjust to reverse automatically over time. The steering adjustment does the same, although it refuses to turn left all the way (it used to). I also could not get the rx/tx to ever pair properly with the 1st ESC or the new one. I would finish the pairing process, but I would have no throttle and the red led would be flashing over the static green led (yes, I calibrated the transmitter and made sure to do everything correctly) and I'd have no throttle (I would have steering though). However, if I bumped the throttle trim knob at all, the led would stop flashing and I'd suddenly have throttle, but it never lasts long because the trim has a fit afterwards. Reminds me a lot of how my old AX-2/AR-2 systems bugged out after the receiver wire was severed (they came that way). I actually had this problem with the original Firma in my Gladiator a couple times, but never to this extent. I'd turn it on and have no throttle, then bump the trim and I'd be fine.

 

[89Industries]

Sounds like you're on the right track by trying the TX you know works on your other truck. My Dx3 seemed to have drifting trim as well, just not so bad to cause full on problems. I relegated it to my 15 year old Traxxas slash that doesn't get driven much.

The 2-in-1 ESC/receiver can make it s bit harder to troubleshoot. With an independent receiver you can swap the 1 and 2 channels and see if the problem follows the channel or the component. For example you say your steering works but throttle doesn't. Swap channels so your tx throttle operates the steering servo and the wheel operates the throttle.

And I would suggest disconnecting the steering link from the servo and either pull the pinion or make sure the wheels aren't on the ground before you turn anything on since end points and trims may not be set anywhere near correctly.

Could do the same thing to test out your 2 speed servo. Take the horn off the servo or otherwise disconnect it from the shift arm on the transmission, then you could plug it into the steering channel (channel 1 normally) and operate it with the steering wheel.

Then see if the problem follows the channel on the controller or follows the component as you move stuff around.

Unfortunately the 2-in-1 doesn't allow this so swapping TX like you plan to do is the way to go.

If it's the TX, I'd give your mom the set up from your truck (unless she objects and then listen to your mom) and then get a separate esc and TX/rX setup for your more demanding tastes. The HW 1080 is heads and tails better than the 2-in-1. Thus my 2-in-1 is sitting in a drawer.

And I feel like there's better TX/rx for less money than the spectrum stuff. Unless you are already bought into the "smart" battery system and stuff.

 

[VoltSCX]

Sounds like you're on the right track by trying the TX you know works on your other truck. My Dx3 seemed to have drifting trim as well, just not so bad to cause full on problems. I relegated it to my 15 year old Traxxas slash that doesn't get driven much.

The 2-in-1 ESC/receiver can make it s bit harder to troubleshoot. With an independent receiver you can swap the 1 and 2 channels and see if the problem follows the channel or the component. For example you say your steering works but throttle doesn't. Swap channels so your tx throttle operates the steering servo and the wheel operates the throttle.

And I would suggest disconnecting the steering link from the servo and either pull the pinion or make sure the wheels aren't on the ground before you turn anything on since end points and trims may not be set anywhere near correctly.

Could do the same thing to test out your 2 speed servo. Take the horn off the servo or otherwise disconnect it from the shift arm on the transmission, then you could plug it into the steering channel (channel 1 normally) and operate it with the steering wheel.

Then see if the problem follows the channel on the controller or follows the component as you move stuff around.

Unfortunately the 2-in-1 doesn't allow this so swapping TX like you plan to do is the way to go.

If it's the TX, I'd give your mom the set up from your truck (unless she objects and then listen to your mom) and then get a separate esc and TX/rX setup for your more demanding tastes. The HW 1080 is heads and tails better than the 2-in-1. Thus my 2-in-1 is sitting in a drawer.

And I feel like there's better TX/rx for less money than the spectrum stuff. Unless you are already bought into the "smart" battery system and stuff.

Yeah, I'm hoping it's just the TX. Would definitely be nice lol. My main reasoning for that theory is because the problem still persists even after the replacement, and the fact that it's all trim related. They also glitch in a different way as well (steering servo does this too). I'll move a trim knob just enough to make an adjustment, and it'll immediately jump forward like 30%. Worst case scenario I'll just buy a Flysky unit and a Hobbywing ESC since I love my GT5 and I've heard good things about the 1080. I only have one smart battery and I never use it (all of my batteries are Zeee RC 5200s), so the only thing I've bought into is the EC3 connector lol. I'm just hoping I can convince her to do it, since any time that I've ever brought up an "upgrade" or aftermarket part she's been adamantly against it (couldn't tell ya why, my best guess is she doesn't want a money pit like my other trucks. Fair enough, but there ain't much I can do if it's broken lol).

 

[89Industries]

If you already have a spare dx3 controller then certainly use that if it solves the issue rather then buying new stuff.

For the future, it's easy enough to solder an ec3 connector on to a an ESC. The hw1080 comes with a xt60 connector usually. I've switched a few ESC's from ec3 or Dean's plug to xt60 because that was the connector suggested by the shop and what all my batteries have.

I stay away from changing the connector on batteries unless it's by just using a plug in adapter. I don't know enough to mess around with batteries and don't feel like accidentally causing a fire.

 

[VoltSCX]

If you already have a spare dx3 controller then certainly use that if it solves the issue rather then buying new stuff.

For the future, it's easy enough to solder an ec3 connector on to a an ESC. The hw1080 comes with a xt60 connector usually. I've switched a few ESC's from ec3 or Dean's plug to xt60 because that was the connector suggested by the shop and what all my batteries have.

I stay away from changing the connector on batteries unless it's by just using a plug in adapter. I don't know enough to mess around with batteries and don't feel like accidentally causing a fire.

Yeah, I just use EC3 since that's what all of my batteries are too lol. I always have the ESCs soldered instead of the batteries, that sounds super sketchy. Just had two connectors soldered onto my Copperhead 10 and an old AE-2 I had lying around.

 

[VoltSCX]

Welp, I was right. Hooked up the DX3 from my 10.2 (was originally on my Gladiator) and it worked flawlessly. Went through and set the endpoints for everything and now it's good to go. Guess I'll be buying a cheap used SLT3 to put back on the Blazer, I'm just gonna let mom keep this one.