Kyosho Blizzard goes Unitrac

Stollenritter · Nov 23, 2014

Winter is coming, brace your self - and get you a Blizzard!

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ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Finally I got an Blizzard. No news in the box, the Blizzard comes nicely boxed as seen in other builds and previews before. So I will spare you the unboxing pictures.

My interest in tracked vehicles is in a mostly technical manner, as these are seen as the slow driving workhorses, crawling through muddy terrain and doing the hard work.

So I will modify the Blizzards known weaky points and try to improve its performance as well as improving its scale appearance, following the Unitrac UT90.

As far as I know, the Unitrac UT90 was originally built for heavy work in steep mountain environment as well as in swampy forests. Equipped with a hydraulic shovel it was meant to set up telephone poles.

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ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> My build will be semi-scale, building an functional vehicle with acceptable scale appearance. I won`t build a hydraulic shovel, but will do the cargo area in the back and a quick change triangle in front. Once the triangle in mounted up, I can come back to the snow plough. But this will take some time …

Some upgrade parts already waiting:

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ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> As old pictures show the UT90 with different tracks widths, I will stay with the snowtracks, just upgrading to the Kyosho heavy tracks.

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ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Thanks for watching,
Stollenritter

Stollenritter · Nov 23, 2014

Every good build using a RTR is starting with disassembly. Here we go 8):

And cutting :shock::

...

Stollenritter · Nov 25, 2014

Working on the tensioner for the tracks. Mock-up with some losi MRC parts:

Also had some old Sand Scorcher shocks in the parts bin:

I will give the Sand Scorcher shocks a try. Cutted thread on the shock shafts:

And reassembled the shocks with a Losi Mirco shock spring inside:

miner mike · Nov 25, 2014

Yep, Is the season. Looks like you have a powerful set of motors. I put shocks on one of mine and left the stock stuff on the bottom, It still hits the body when flying off jumps.

JohnRobHolmes · Nov 25, 2014

I got one when they first came out with a single motor and cutting brakes. Good to see they have two motors now. I ended up putting two little outrunners with gearboxes into it for better runtime and torque, and of course better control.

Should be a rad project, its a great wintertime rig!

Stollenritter · Nov 26, 2014

Thank you for your comments!

miner mike said:
Yep, Is the season. Looks like you have a powerful set of motors. I put shocks on one of mine and left the stock stuff on the bottom, It still hits the body when flying off jumps.

You have a very nice looking shock setup on yours, and you seem to be definitely on the speedy side of the game

For my build, I wasn`t meant to have a too powerful set of motors. I wanted to go for torque and good low speed control. Hope this will play out well. Maybe I have to gear it some more down. By the way, I plan on running on 2s ...

JohnRobHolmes said:
I got one when they first came out with a single motor and cutting brakes. Good to see they have two motors now. I ended up putting two little outrunners with gearboxes into it for better runtime and torque, and of course better control.

Should be a rad project, its a great wintertime rig!

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w

unctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->The Blizzard with the differential gear design and the cutting brakes is one of my favorites, but these days it is hard to come by. Only downside on this design is you cannot turn around on the spot by moving one track forward an one track back. Beside that it is a great design with a lot of scale appearance.
I would really like a weathered look, so I will try some techniques pictured in the body-and-paint area. I am not very experienced in paint jobs, but it seems to be a lot of fun (especially the weathering part).

But for now, I am still in the middle of modifying and upgrading the stock vehicle. Next thing to do will be the drivesprockets. I will bond the two parts permanently together, using a sleeve to give the joint more strength:

miner mike · Nov 26, 2014

From what I have found the weakest part is the gearbox. the shafts that the gears ride on flex and spread apart under load since they are not "boxed" in no support on the outer end of the shaft. I modified mine with 2 other gearbox plates and I'm still on my original gear's. Here's my fix on the snowcat fourm.

Gearbox fix
If I did it again I would cut the plates down more.

Stollenritter · Nov 26, 2014

miner mike said:
From what I have found the weakest part is the gearbox. the shafts that the gears ride on flex and spread apart under load since they are not "boxed" in no support on the outer end of the shaft. I modified mine with 2 other gearbox plates and I'm still on my original gear's. Here's my fix on the snowcat fourm.

Gearbox fix
If I did it again I would cut the plates down more.

Very good point! And a very good write down. I have heard of the gearbox problems but had no idea how to improve this. I will keep your fix in mind.
Thanks for the hint!

Stollenritter · Nov 30, 2014

Made some sleeves from aluminium tubing today:

And glued together:

Next spot to be looked at will be the front and back of the floor pan. The plastic parts will be replaced by aluminium sheets …

miner mike · Dec 1, 2014

That looks good, my brain was thinking you were going to sleeve the inside. I never liked the slop. :mrgreen:
Every time I look at that Unitrac pic it makes me smile.

Stollenritter · Dec 1, 2014

miner mike said:
That looks good, my brain was thinking you were going to sleeve the inside. I never liked the slop. :mrgreen:
Every time I look at that Unitrac pic it makes me smile.

I`m glad you like it "thumbsup"
I knew the Blizzard from my childhood when it was sold by Graupner. I was never to much a fan of the snow groomer, but when I saw the Unitrac, I was absolutely sold

Stollenritter · Dec 1, 2014

Made the first sheet for the floor pan today. Just fitted to the pan with tape by now. As I will put the drive sprockets in the rear of the Unitrac, this will be the back end panel:

Some goodies from Yeah-Racing:

And test fitted with tape:

Found some pics of the Unitrac geared up with some wider tracks:

miner mike · Dec 1, 2014

So are you going to run a unitrac type body? Nice work on the rear panel. One thing I always wanted to do and never did was make a screw type adjuster for the sprocket drive chains. I find it difficult to keep at the right adjustment. keep up the good work.

Stollenritter · Dec 4, 2014

Small update today: I made some brackets for the front panel:

The stainless screws will be replaced by button head screws.

Stollenritter · Dec 4, 2014

Oh, and yes, I plan on running a Tamiya Unimog body!

The screw type adjuster is a good idea, especially if you are going fast. Excessive chain elongation is one of the downsides of higher speed. So an easy way to set chain tension right may be helpfull.
For me, as I am going slow, this should not be a problem. Hopefully. ;-)

TrailDawg362 · Dec 5, 2014

I've been following along on your progress with the mods you're doing, very nice! I bought a Blizzard SR a while back and liked the manuverability of the 2 motor setup, but it seemed very underpowered to me. I ended up gutting the stock drivetrain and replaced it with the single motor/differential/dual brake setup like my vintage DF-300. I found a reproduction DX body from Blue Groove Racing to change up the look which still needs finishing.

These are very cool little machines, can't wait to see what else you do with yours "thumbsup".

jebster · Dec 5, 2014

Nice progress. Looking at this I regret selling my nitro blizzard a few years ago. Maybe I'll have to find one again.

I do have a question. Do people feel the dual motor setup was more durable than the single motor/brake setup? My nitro had the brake setup but always felt an electrical with dual motors would be better.

Stollenritter · Dec 6, 2014

TrailDawg362 said:
I've been following along on your progress with the mods you're doing, very nice! I bought a Blizzard SR a while back and liked the manuverability of the 2 motor setup, but it seemed very underpowered to me. I ended up gutting the stock drivetrain and replaced it with the single motor/differential/dual brake setup like my vintage DF-300. I found a reproduction DX body from Blue Groove Racing to change up the look which still needs finishing.

These are very cool little machines, can't wait to see what else you do with yours "thumbsup".

Thank you for your kind words!

Most owners complain about the weakness of the SR`s motors. That`s why I followed the experts advice in Makaveliks Tread and ordered a set of brushless motors :mrgreen:
If I could get hold of a Blizzard with differential/brake setup, I would probably turn it into a cut-away model and it would end up in my showcase "thumbsup"

jebster said:
Nice progress. Looking at this I regret selling my nitro blizzard a few years ago. Maybe I'll have to find one again.

I do have a question. Do people feel the dual motor setup was more durable than the single motor/brake setup? My nitro had the brake setup but always felt an electrical with dual motors would be better.

You definitely have to find one again, that`s out of question, ins`t it? :mrgreen:
I can`t tell which one will be more durable. I have not driven mine yet :ror:

TrailDawg362 · Dec 6, 2014

The stock SR's 370 sized motors and esc work hard to move it around, and aftermarket mod motors will run hot also. There's a fair amount of flex in the gearbox, along with the plastic gears. If driven reasonably it should be ok.

I wanted a "speed demon" for tearing across the snow so I opted for a 5700kV BL motor on 3S lipos for my modified SR. Not as scale as the stock setup, but alot of fun!

Stollenritter, what motors are you using and are you planning to run lights on yours? I highly recommend it. These things look great at night all lit up!

Stollenritter · Dec 6, 2014

Hello TrailDawg,

I`ve got two HK2838 / 2810 KV (unsensored) and two HK35A ESCs. I plan on running the headlights of the Mog body, maybe a searchlight on the hood. Yours look great in the snow! I have to add some tail lights, too.

I will reinforce the gearbox, building a support for the free shaft ends. Even if I don`t plan on going fast.

Today I re-did the brackets for the front panel. The ones made from aluminium were to flimsy, so I made some brackets from brass:

Attaching the front panel with some newly arrived buttonhead screws:

So the Blizzard has a very rigid front end now.

Kyosho Blizzard goes Unitrac

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