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Jato The Trail Finder 2 - Leaf Spring Mafia Edition
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
Yeah they're feeding me a bunch of BS hoping I'm a noob that just says OK I'll try thread lock to fix your screw up.
I responded to their email telling them that I'm frustrated.
I installed a round head screw before I even posted that photo. That's not the point.
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new2rocks
I wanna be Dave
A few thoughts in response to some of the recent posts:
-- 90mm shocks in front with G2 hoops are perfect. I have tried 100mm and found them too long (not enough compression). In the rear, 90mm (basically same as stock) works great with the stock upper shock mount bridge. If you go with a straight upper shock mount between the rails in the rear (e.g., for a flatbed like on my LWB), 70mm shocks work great.
-- I put a set of 90mm RSDs in my TRX-4. They're pretty good, but I don't like them as much as the XDs. Something about the design leaves more air in the chamber than other emulsion shocks I've used (like the RC4WD RRDs, King Scale shocks, and Pro-Line Scalers) and makes the action a bit lumpier. But overall, they pretty good and seem to be holding oil fine.
-- The snapped housing of the Ultimate Scaler is odd and seems like a fluke. I'm sure they'll replace it for you. That said, I'm not aware of any ultra scale looking shock (e.g., size of Ultimate Scalers, Superlifts of Old Man Emus, all of which I use) that offer the same performance and durability as the best wider bodied shocks. All that said, Ultimate Scalers with thread lock in the ball ends are doing fine in my LWB, and Emus are doing fine in my leafed G2 Cruiser. And although the RRDs offer a theoretical performance benefit, I can't say I notice the difference in shocks nearly as much as I notice the differences in leaf setups among my various leafed rigs. So it's just a question of what trade-off you prefer.
-- 90mm shocks in front with G2 hoops are perfect. I have tried 100mm and found them too long (not enough compression). In the rear, 90mm (basically same as stock) works great with the stock upper shock mount bridge. If you go with a straight upper shock mount between the rails in the rear (e.g., for a flatbed like on my LWB), 70mm shocks work great.
-- I put a set of 90mm RSDs in my TRX-4. They're pretty good, but I don't like them as much as the XDs. Something about the design leaves more air in the chamber than other emulsion shocks I've used (like the RC4WD RRDs, King Scale shocks, and Pro-Line Scalers) and makes the action a bit lumpier. But overall, they pretty good and seem to be holding oil fine.
-- The snapped housing of the Ultimate Scaler is odd and seems like a fluke. I'm sure they'll replace it for you. That said, I'm not aware of any ultra scale looking shock (e.g., size of Ultimate Scalers, Superlifts of Old Man Emus, all of which I use) that offer the same performance and durability as the best wider bodied shocks. All that said, Ultimate Scalers with thread lock in the ball ends are doing fine in my LWB, and Emus are doing fine in my leafed G2 Cruiser. And although the RRDs offer a theoretical performance benefit, I can't say I notice the difference in shocks nearly as much as I notice the differences in leaf setups among my various leafed rigs. So it's just a question of what trade-off you prefer.
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I have a couple of questions.
1. I have one big helper under the main spring in the front and in the rear I just have one big helper above the leaf. The back of the truck seems to sag in the rear.
How many leafs are you guys running?
2. How much body modification, if any, is needed to fit the Tamiya Hilux round headlight grille?
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1. I have one big helper under the main spring in the front and in the rear I just have one big helper above the leaf. The back of the truck seems to sag in the rear.
How many leafs are you guys running?
2. How much body modification, if any, is needed to fit the Tamiya Hilux round headlight grille?
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new2rocks
I wanna be Dave
I'd be surprised if the sagging stance was just related to the helpers, esp. given how light the back end is. I'd guess there's something else going on with your stance. There are several possibilities, including bed pushed too far down the body posts, rear leaf shackles snapped into the locked position on full compression, front leafs still arched and rear leafs flattened out, etc.
My two standard WB trucks run red leafs with full-length black helpers (black leafs with eyes cut off) and medium helpers underneath. One of those has short helpers above the red leafs, one doesn't. My LWB runs the black leafs with medium helpers underneath and short helpers above the leafs. The reds are more compliant, but you have to be judicious when in binds because they warp more easily. The LWB has a much stiffer ride, but it's still very capable with appropriate adjustments to driving style and lines.
Not much. The Mojave 2 front fenders have a taller notch-out for the side marker lights than the original Mojave and Tamiya bodies have. You'd just need to add a bit of styrene to fill in that gap. Here's a side-by-side of the Mojave and Mojave 2 grills showing the difference:
The body is just setting on the truck and I'm sure it's not level. But if you look at the picture without the body it still seems to sag in the rear. That's even without the battery or body being on the truck.
I checked and the shackles were not locked out. Everything moves freely.
I would think the main leaf is enough to support the rear, don't you agree?
Once I drive the truck I'm sure I'll get an idea of what to adjust. At this point I haven't driven it so my starting setup is just a guess. I'll adjust as needed.
That photo is very helpful. There's barely any difference.
RC4WD is still insisting blue Loc-Tite is the correct fix for the driveshaft to transmission pin screw. All I can say there is WTF?!
They are also insisting I send the trans back and wait for another trans. Well the trans is already installed. And all I really need is an output shaft or a better driveshaft. And I shouldn't have to wait to use my truck because of their **** up. Good companies, and I've dealt with plenty, send the replacement part and then have you ship the defective one back in the same box.
They are sending out one replacement shock based on the photos. They said there's need to send that back. First smart thing they have said. I just wonder if it's coming from the US or from Hu Da Fook Knows in Asia. As far as the junk on the other shock shafts I was told to wipe it off. Apparently Taiwan doesn't do housekeeping.
At this point **** RC4WD! They are quick to respond to emails, but their customer service is useless otherwise. RC3WD - barely a step above Integy. I bought the TF2 from Tower Hobbies. I will just email them if I have any other issues. They are quick to respond and rectify issues even with products from other companies.
They are also insisting I send the trans back and wait for another trans. Well the trans is already installed. And all I really need is an output shaft or a better driveshaft. And I shouldn't have to wait to use my truck because of their **** up. Good companies, and I've dealt with plenty, send the replacement part and then have you ship the defective one back in the same box.
They are sending out one replacement shock based on the photos. They said there's need to send that back. First smart thing they have said. I just wonder if it's coming from the US or from Hu Da Fook Knows in Asia. As far as the junk on the other shock shafts I was told to wipe it off. Apparently Taiwan doesn't do housekeeping.
At this point **** RC4WD! They are quick to respond to emails, but their customer service is useless otherwise. RC3WD - barely a step above Integy. I bought the TF2 from Tower Hobbies. I will just email them if I have any other issues. They are quick to respond and rectify issues even with products from other companies.
new2rocks
I wanna be Dave
I’ve been running all of mine this way for years and never had a problem. Once the thread lock sets, the set screw won’t go anywhere unless you want to take it out. This is really a non-issue. “thumbsup”
Just because it works doesn't mean it's the right fix. It's a flaw that the pin screw does not have anything to tighten against.
I told you....
Getting a replacement trans is not going to fix the issue, they are ALL like that.
I got my GMade RSD shocks. What weight of shock oil should I start with?
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As light as you can and have them not leak.
Why light? On a leaf spring rig the shocks dampen the bouncing and oscillations of the leaf springs. I don't think light weight would do much to help this.
Curious to see how you trim the body for the tires.
I feel your pain with this kit. I got mine built and its fun now. But during the build process I had issues like you had. I didnt bother to deal with their Customer Support. I just fixed it like I would in the field. This did, however, build up a lot of frustration. Which lead to a Titan 12T and 3s Lipo bash session. Go or Blow. It decided to go and not blow so there is that I guess...
I feel your pain with this kit. I got mine built and its fun now. But during the build process I had issues like you had. I didnt bother to deal with their Customer Support. I just fixed it like I would in the field. This did, however, build up a lot of frustration. Which lead to a Titan 12T and 3s Lipo bash session. Go or Blow. It decided to go and not blow so there is that I guess...
It seems lots of people have quality control issues with their RC4WD kits. I knew this coming into it. I was hoping they would have changed. Apparently not at all.
I'm not sure I'll have to trim the fenders.
and here i was thinking i might try a TF2 because I've been jonesing for a leaf truck lately.
i might go with a GCM instead of RC3WD. sorry you are having such a hard time. having high standards can often be a double-edged sword. i don't even like that saying though... what is the disadvantage of TWO edges?!
anyway good luck and i cant wait to see what you do with the body!
i might go with a GCM instead of RC3WD. sorry you are having such a hard time. having high standards can often be a double-edged sword. i don't even like that saying though... what is the disadvantage of TWO edges?!
anyway good luck and i cant wait to see what you do with the body!
Teng
RCC Addict
And yet another enjoyable thread on TF2 ( Just finished my reading on this long thread, until my eyes feel tired ) But really good. Thank you guys for all the useful tips and information "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"
Inspector86
RCC Addict
My TF2 LWB chassis kit just arrived yesterday. I was collecting some upgrade parts before I start assembling including the Bowhouse crossmember parts. I wanted to install the GII front shock mounts but I see they are out of stock everywhere. In reading all the many TF2 threads I read somewhere that the Hot Racing SCX10.2 shock mounts will work on the TF2 frame but I have not been able to confirm this. Has anyone installed the HR SCX10.2 front shock mounts on a TF2?
Hey Jato, did you ever solve your "sagging rear" problem (no pun intended!)? I ended up putting the springs back in the rear shocks to get it to not sag, and I am running all of the leafs! IIRC there is another post on here about the rear sag.
I don't have an answer for you. Sorry.
I don't know that I have rear sag. I've never mounted the body correctly.
Speaking of body, what are you guys using to hold the back window surround to the cab?
